Stainless steel keg used as a brew pot

I was thinking of cutting off the top of an empty keg to start using it as a brew pot. Has anyone done this before or what are your ideas about using this technique?

A lot of brewers -- including me -- use empty kegs as kettles, hot liquor tanks, etc. It's an ideal vessel.

hercher said:

A lot of brewers -- including me -- use empty kegs as kettles, hot liquor tanks, etc. It's an ideal vessel.

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How big do you usually use?

For the boil it's called a keggle... LOTS of us have them...




You can easily set the keg up as a kettle/keggle, MLT and HLT... Just get a good step bit, some drilling lubricant, and take your time drilling it right. For cutting the top, you'll want a good right angle grinder and virgin cutting wheels/disks as well as others to round over the cut edge (so you don't slice yourself open reaching into the keggle).

1/2 barrel kegs are typically the base for this. Allows you to make 5-10 gallon batches (I've managed to fit up to about 14 gallons into the boil keggle so far). As a mash tun, depending on the false bottom setup, and mash thickness, you should be able to get about 30# of grain in there (give or take)... I've already done 30# of grain (plus some rice hulls) in mine. I can get a bit more in there, so I might do 32-33# at some point.

Golddiggie said:

For the boil it's called a keggle... LOTS of us have them...

You can easily set the keg up as a kettle/keggle, MLT and HLT... Just get a good step bit, some drilling lubricant, and take your time drilling it right. For cutting the top, you'll want a good right angle grinder and virgin cutting wheels/disks as well as others to round over the cut edge (so you don't slice yourself open reaching into the keggle).

1/2 barrel kegs are typically the base for this. Allows you to make 5-10 gallon batches (I've managed to fit up to about 14 gallons into the boil keggle so far). As a mash tun, depending on the false bottom setup, and mash thickness, you should be able to get about 30# of grain in there (give or take)... I've already done 30# of grain (plus some rice hulls) in mine. I can get a bit more in there, so I might do 32-33# at some point.

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What does it cost to make?

It really depends on what you're looking to do and how much you're willing to spend. If you just want to boil in it, you can get away with cutting a hole in the top and then putting in a simple ball valve to drain it out. You do have to get out of the kitchen and put the keg on an outdoor cooker.

I have a keg conversion guide here: http://brewhardware.com/kegtokettle

plowder2 said:

What does it cost to make?

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That depends... If you're just making a boil keggle, all you need is the ball valve and dip tube inside. Which can be made from one of these dip tubes, and 1/2" ball valves (I prefer the 3 piece for several reasons). Get a few washers,and silicone gaskets or o-rings too. So, in the $45-$50 range for parts for the ball valve assembly. You can add other things as you wish, like a sight tube. I wouldn't bother with a thermometer installed into one, since you can use a fast read, digital, thermometer easily (and use it in more things).

I have my boil keggle equipped with a ball valve assembly (different hardware setup) with TC (TriClove) fittings, a recirculation fitting (above the ball valve setup) for running the boiling wort back into the keggle while sending it through my plate chiller to sanitize, then during the chill phase to do a better job. I also have the sight tube/glass assembly (my own design/make) on mine.

You can go the welded route if you want. I would only do that if you're good with welding (TIG or silver solder) or have a friend that will do it for you. Welders typically charge a good amount for their service.

You don't have to put on a valve or anything else. Once you cut off the top, that's as far as you have to go. Simply use an auto siphon to drain. That's what I do to make 11-12 gallon batches.

pm5k00 said:

You don't have to put on a valve or anything else. Once you cut off the top, that's as far as you have to go. Simply use an auto siphon to drain. That's what I do to make 11-12 gallon batches.

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Issue I see with that is it seriously limits what you can do/use. You're locked into using an IC (at most) to chill the wort. Plus, transferring to fermenter(s) is going to take much longer.

With at least a ball valve installed, you now can use any of the wort chiller types out there. You'll also transfer to fermenter(s) faster/easier.

IME, having a kettle/keggle is a huge help on brew day. I wouldn't brew with anything that doesn't at least have a ball valve installed.

Hey Golddiggie where did you get that red thing you use to stack your kegs and what did it cost?

Kirch3333 said:

Hey Golddiggie where did you get that red thing you use to stack your kegs and what did it cost?

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KegWorks... http://www.kegworks.com/keg-beer-stacker-828-p16781

Golddiggie said:

Issue I see with that is it seriously limits what you can do/use. You're locked into using an IC (at most) to chill the wort. Plus, transferring to fermenter(s) is going to take much longer.

With at least a ball valve installed, you now can use any of the wort chiller types out there. You'll also transfer to fermenter(s) faster/easier.

IME, having a kettle/keggle is a huge help on brew day. I wouldn't brew with anything that doesn't at least have a ball valve installed.

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Yeah I use an IC, but it works good, so I have no need to spend more money on a different kind of chiller, and its super easy to clean. Using a siphon doesn't take that long that I mind.

I simply wanted to point out to the OP that extra ports where not necessary to use a keggle.

You can get as fancy and expensive as you want in this hobby, I prefer to keep it cheap and simple.

pm5k00 said:

Yeah I use an IC, but it works good, so I have no need to spend more money on a different kind of chiller, and its super easy to clean. Using a siphon doesn't take that long that I mind.

I simply wanted to point out to the OP that extra ports where not necessary to use a keggle.

You can get as fancy and expensive as you want in this hobby, I prefer to keep it cheap and simple.

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IMO, it's not a kettle, or keggle, without at least a ball valve installed.

I don't spend wastefully, but I do spend where it matters. For me, the IC I had wasn't cutting it. So I went to first one size plate chiller, then a larger one. I was able to sell my previous chillers (the smaller plate chiller just last week) so I've recovered a decent amount of what I spent on those.

I'm more interested in getting the hardware/gear that makes brewing easier on me, while also giving me better beer at the end. The speed that the plate chiller cools the wort, and (IME) ease of use makes it a solid win in my book. Being able to set up a keggle yourself will save you money.

BTW, I wasn't happy with the sight tube designs normally available from HBS', so I designed and made my own. With the tools I have where I live, now, I've increased the list of what I can make/modify. It's another fun (for me at least) aspect of brewing.

I use a 10 gallon pot with no ball valve. I use an IC and then siphon into the fermenter.

I agree that a ball valve is a nice thing to have, but it's by no means necessary. The extra 5-10 minutes it takes to siphon isn't a big deal to me.

I'll echo what pm5k00 said, this hobby can be as involved/complex as you want it to be. If you're happy with your setup and it works for you, that's all that matters.

I use a converted keg as a kettle, with no ball valve. I just pick it up and dump the wort into the fermenter, straining through a large mesh bag to get the hops out.

cjb said:

I use a converted keg as a kettle, with no ball valve. I just pick it up and dump the wort into the fermenter, straining through a large mesh bag to get the hops out.

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Haha I only have the balls to do that once I get a few gallons out of the pot. When it's that heavy I'd be worried I'd spill everywhere.

cjb said:

I use a converted keg as a kettle, with no ball valve. I just pick it up and dump the wort into the fermenter, straining through a large mesh bag to get the hops out.

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That's damned messy compared with using a ball valve. Unless you cut away the top section of the keg (where the handles are) to allow better flow.

Golddiggie said:

For the boil it's called a keggle... LOTS of us have them...

You can easily set the keg up as a kettle/keggle, MLT and HLT... Just get a good step bit, some drilling lubricant, and take your time drilling it right. For cutting the top, you'll want a good right angle grinder and virgin cutting wheels/disks as well as others to round over the cut edge (so you don't slice yourself open reaching into the keggle).

1/2 barrel kegs are typically the base for this. Allows you to make 5-10 gallon batches (I've managed to fit up to about 14 gallons into the boil keggle so far). As a mash tun, depending on the false bottom setup, and mash thickness, you should be able to get about 30# of grain in there (give or take)... I've already done 30# of grain (plus some rice hulls) in mine. I can get a bit more in there, so I might do 32-33# at some point.

Click to expand...

When cutting the top off of the keg to make a keggle how big of a hole must I make and the. Did you drill a hole for the ball valve? If so where approximately did you drill the hole for the ball valve to go?

plowder2 said:

When cutting the top off of the keg to make a keggle how big of a hole must I make and the. Did you drill a hole for the ball valve? If so where approximately did you drill the hole for the ball valve to go?

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I put the ball valve as low as possible. Depending on the keg you get, that can vary. IF it's a standard AB/Miller keg, then put it so that the bottom of the outside washer will be right at the weld line (bottom skirt). That should also give you enough space for the lock nut inside. Or space it from the inside, with the lock nut.

Since making my first keggle (all drilling) I've since picked up a Greenlee punch to make the hole (slug-splitter). So, I only need to make a 1/2" hole, then use the punch to make it the right size. The punch uses a hydraulic driver to power it, which makes it damned easy to use. It's probably way outside of what most people would get/use, but I wanted to get the holes easier, and better, so this was the best option (for me). Plus, I might be making some keggles for people, so it makes more sense to have such a tool already.

For the top hole, in my boil keggle, it's about 12" across. I use a ~12" lid on it. You have a few options on how you guide the grinder to make the hole. I like using the 1-1/4" PVC "T" fitting (under $2 total cost) to guide my grinder. I held it against the T, and turned it around, but got a really nice hole without spending more time to make a jig (than it would take to make the hole) as well as more money. You can get the "T" fitting at Lowe's in the plumbing section. I put the 90 degree section into the hole vacated by the valve and spear.

Golddiggie said:

I put the ball valve as low as possible. Depending on the keg you get, that can vary. IF it's a standard AB/Miller keg, then put it so that the bottom of the outside washer will be right at the weld line (bottom skirt). That should also give you enough space for the lock nut inside. Or space it from the inside, with the lock nut.

Since making my first keggle (all drilling) I've since picked up a Greenlee punch to make the hole (slug-splitter). So, I only need to make a 1/2" hole, then use the punch to make it the right size. The punch uses a hydraulic driver to power it, which makes it damned easy to use. It's probably way outside of what most people would get/use, but I wanted to get the holes easier, and better, so this was the best option (for me). Plus, I might be making some keggles for people, so it makes more sense to have such a tool already.

For the top hole, in my boil keggle, it's about 12" across. I use a ~12" lid on it. You have a few options on how you guide the grinder to make the hole. I like using the 1-1/4" PVC "T" fitting (under $2 total cost) to guide my grinder. I held it against the T, and turned it around, but got a really nice hole without spending more time to make a jig (than it would take to make the hole) as well as more money. You can get the "T" fitting at Lowe's in the plumbing section. I put the 90 degree section into the hole vacated by the valve and spear.

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I have a plasma cutter. Would that be an option to get the holes cut? So you cut a 12" diameter hole on the top. I will drill a hole for the 1/2" hole for the ball valve. What else do I need to do just to make a keggle?

If you use a plasma cutter be prepared to spend a LOT of time cleaning the inside of the keg. It's not the best. Just use a grinder.

plowder2 said:

I have a plasma cutter. Would that be an option to get the holes cut? So you cut a 12" diameter hole on the top. I will drill a hole for the 1/2" hole for the ball valve. What else do I need to do just to make a keggle?

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Cut the top as large as you can, provided you can get/make a cover for it. You want to have it covered as you heat towards a boil.

For ball valves, and other 1/2" NPT fittings, you need to make a 7/8" hole. You can add more items/fittings as you go. Many of us have sight tubes on our boil keggles. How you do that is more personal choice/preference.

I would only use a plasma cutter if you can get a really, really, really clean cut with it. You want zero slag around the hole, nor any sharp points. It's often easier (and faster) with a right angle grinder.

I used a plasma cutter to cut the top off and a 7/8 drillbit to put a hole in mine to add a ballvalve and that's it. it's worked fine for several years now.

Golddiggie said:

Cut the top as large as you can, provided you can get/make a cover for it. You want to have it covered as you heat towards a boil.

For ball valves, and other 1/2" NPT fittings, you need to make a 7/8" hole. You can add more items/fittings as you go. Many of us have sight tubes on our boil keggles. How you do that is more personal choice/preference.

I would only use a plasma cutter if you can get a really, really, really clean cut with it. You want zero slag around the hole, nor any sharp points. It's often easier (and faster) with a right angle grinder.

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What did you make your cover out of?

plowder2 said:

What did you make your cover out of?

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This... On my first boil keggle, I used some silicone tubing (cut to fit over the lip of the keggle) to help make a better seal. Didn't bother with my current keggle though. Doesn't really need it I find.

You can use a plasma cutter but put water in the keg to keep slag from sticking. Find the appropriate lid and trace your hole for cutting from that. If you use an immersion chiller the hole has to be big enough to get it in the keggle. Any slag that sticks can be removed easily with a stainless steel pot scrubber.

you can always take the top of the keg that you just cut off and tac weld some scrap pieces of stainless or a couple stainless washers to the edge and BOOM you got a lid!

mkringii said:

you can always take the top of the keg that you just cut off and tac weld some scrap pieces of stainless or a couple stainless washers to the edge and BOOM you got a lid!

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You're assuming the person has an electric welder. You'll still have the gap created by the cutting tool too.

I did use the top cut from the BK for the MLT keggle cover.

As you can see yes you can use a stainless steel keg as a brewing tool. I have used one for all my brews except one. My current keggle does not have a ball valve as I have not had the money nor the setup for one yet. I simply chill then rack to primary. Worked for about 20+ batches so far. Lol. Now this is where I differ. I have a bit of metal experience and did not want the opening restrictions that others have with the standard hole size and position. I cut the entire upper ring right at the weld as to not lose any useable space. I then repurpose the handles. Here are some pics of a buddies of mine I did a few months ago. I have had instances of fingers or other things getting stuck in the ends of the handles so I created filler plates and cleaned up the ends so they not only look good but are safe. I then drilled drain holes in the bottom so it won't hold any spilled wort or water from clean up.

I might have to do a test with a 'spare' short pony keg and see what I can get for an opening by partially cutting the top section (where the handles are). I'll want to keep the handles where they are, just open up the top more. If it works well I have two more kegs that I could cut that way (virgin kegs )... I'm kind of hesitant to cut my polished boil keggle right now.

I have found that a lid for a 12" stock pot works great and I can usually find them at good will or other second hand stores for .50-1.00 each