Questions on boring Propane orifice for NG

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timbudtwo

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I have read a few threads, and looked at different websites, and information seems to be lacking, or only eligible for those that are utterly familiar with plumbing terminology (which I am not.)

So what I have read is that you drill out an orifice, I am not sure which that is because there are many along the line from tank to flame.

I am using a cast burner for my propane, so I do not have the individual orifices for each flame like you would get on a jet burner. Am I required to have a jet burner?
orificeburner.jpg



The only other orifices available are the hose connection, which seems to be the least likely place to modify, unless you were changing to a larger diameter hose:
orificeconnection.jpg


Or the actual brass connections on the hose:
orificehose.jpg


One (or both?) of the last options seems to be the most likely as whenever I read about boring out the orifice it seems to discuss it being brass. Side "A" of the hose is the connection to the burner, or the gas outlet. Side "B" is the tank side, gas inlet.

Which of these holes do I need to bore out? Will I be able to use the same hose (10 psi regulator, I know NG is only around about .5 or less psi)?

Thanks for your help.
 
Save the hose and regulator for future use or sell it as the hose will be too small for NG use. The "A" device is what needs to bored out to operate on NG, might as well purchase a new gas orifice fitting 1/8" MNPT to 3/8" flare and use the 3/8" flex gas lines for water heaters to rung gas from valve to burner. Be prepared for a reduction in flame as the NG pressure is very low compared to the 10 PSI propane, you will get about 40-50% of the flame on propane. Start with a 3/32" drill bit and step up to 1/8" after you test to see if air shutter needs to be fully open to burn with just yellow flame tips.
 
Save the hose and regulator for future use or sell it as the hose will be too small for NG use. The "A" device is what needs to bored out to operate on NG, might as well purchase a new gas orifice fitting 1/8" MNPT to 3/8" flare and use the 3/8" flex gas lines for water heaters to rung gas from valve to burner. Be prepared for a reduction in flame as the NG pressure is very low compared to the 10 PSI propane, you will get about 40-50% of the flame on propane. Start with a 3/32" drill bit and step up to 1/8" after you test to see if air shutter needs to be fully open to burn with just yellow flame tips.

If I am to set this hose aside, there is no "A" orifice to bore out. Are you suggesting I can bore out the hose OR purchase the connections?

Thanks
 
The orifice you are concerned with is the brass piece that screws into the middle of picture 2. It is the only one you need to worry about on your burner. I would try to find the proper orifice rather than drill it out, especially since the LP hose/regulator will not work.
 
You will save or sell the old hose and regulator and buy a new gas orifice fitting for low pressure or modify a high pressure model. Here is a link to a NG conversion kit http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/burners/natural-gas-conversion-kit-for-blichmann-floor-burner.html. This might make the process easier, just add flex hose between valve and gas jet fitting, hose can be found at HD or Lowes as a water heater gas flex connector. The package will have pipe connectors on the end of the hose which are removable, the hose connectors are 3/8" and should fit the NG conversion fittings after pipe adapters are removed.
 
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