Amount of water?
- Thread starter GABrewboy
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sebbeerbiker
Active Member
Yes, sorry for not confirming that before. Plenty of space.GABrewboy said:
For your chiller, you'll want to dump it into the kettle about 10 minutes before the end of the boil, to sanitize it. Make sure it is nice and clean first. You'll notice a drop in the boil, but it'll pick up fast right after. Leave the chiller in there for the rest of the boil. Once you've finished the boil. Turn off the heat. Start running cold water through the chiller. I've found that stirring the hot wort with the chiller helps cool faster (better dispersion and mixing). CHilling should take about 20 - 30 minutes, depending how cold your water is. Chill to about 68F.
Good luck!
Seb
sebbeerbiker
Active Member
Man this really brings back memories...
You'll probably be thinking how to separate the hops from the wort before getting the cool wort to the fermenter. What's your setup like? (fermenter type: glass carboy, plastic bucket?). Hops: plug, leaf or pellets? Do you have cheese cloth bags for your hops? Do you have a funnel with a screen in it?
Seb
You'll probably be thinking how to separate the hops from the wort before getting the cool wort to the fermenter. What's your setup like? (fermenter type: glass carboy, plastic bucket?). Hops: plug, leaf or pellets? Do you have cheese cloth bags for your hops? Do you have a funnel with a screen in it?
Seb
Okay, my setup!! I have 2 glass carboys, 1 plastic primary bottling bucket.....one homemade filter: I took a strainer, got some small screen from Lowe's and cut to fit the stainless strainer......put some larger handles so it will sit on top of my bottling bucket, then pour straight from the kettle to the bucket.....this helps me to both filter the gunk and to aerate the wort a little......seems to have done a pretty good job so far on the 2 batches I have used it with. I have been using hop pellets and just been tossing them straight to the kettle with no hop bag.
Baron von BeeGee
Beer Bully
You'd get some, just like we do anyways. Tannin extraction becomes problematic when temperature is >170-175F and pH is greater than 6 which results in the tannins becoming more soluble. The pH of the water, by itself, is not the issue pre-mash. It depends as well on the buffering capacity of the water. If you have water of pH 7 in your HLT with a low buffering capacity it will be brought into an acceptable pH range in the mash under normal circumstances. I would say for most mashes that the temperature of the sparge is of greater concern than the pH as the pH will generally be fine for the normal amount of runoff collected if it was fine in the mash in the first place.sebbeerbiker said:
I'm not sure how probrewers factor in as I'm sure they don't allow either of these conditions to occur
sebbeerbiker
Active Member
Sounds like you have it all under control! Good luck then with the first mash.GABrewboy said:
Cheers,
Seb
Just a couple of points, one of which I find useful.
As I recall, you are not using British malt which is highly modified. As I understand things, if you are using an under modified malt, you need to step mash in order to develop the enzymes for the starch conversion. In that case, heating the water to 160+ degrees would seem to be too high. Admittedly, I only use British malt, so I am guessing here. I'm sure somebody else could give you better advice.
The second thing is that I heat the mash water and the sparge water at the same time, all in one batch. That way, I only have one lot of water treatment to add. I grind the malt while the water is heating - plenty of time. If the mash turns out too cool, I borrow some water from the sparge water. If too hot, I add cold water. I then have plenty of spare time while mashing (which gives me an opportunity to sample a previous brew), and the sparge water only requires a minor temperature adjustment.
This really works well for me (but I don't step mash).
Good luck
-a.
As I recall, you are not using British malt which is highly modified. As I understand things, if you are using an under modified malt, you need to step mash in order to develop the enzymes for the starch conversion. In that case, heating the water to 160+ degrees would seem to be too high. Admittedly, I only use British malt, so I am guessing here. I'm sure somebody else could give you better advice.
The second thing is that I heat the mash water and the sparge water at the same time, all in one batch. That way, I only have one lot of water treatment to add. I grind the malt while the water is heating - plenty of time. If the mash turns out too cool, I borrow some water from the sparge water. If too hot, I add cold water. I then have plenty of spare time while mashing (which gives me an opportunity to sample a previous brew), and the sparge water only requires a minor temperature adjustment.
This really works well for me (but I don't step mash).
Good luck
-a.
sebbeerbiker
Active Member
Most modern malts are supposed to be well modified. GABrewboy is using american 2 row and belgian pale. These will be 100% fine in a single temp infusion mash. Sure, some people (George Fix for instance) have stated better yield (extraction) using a step mash. I've done it, didn't see a benefit, and the extra work made my brew day longer.ajf said:
Seb
sebbeerbiker said:
Thanks for that information. Seems like I should bring my brewing library up-to-date.
-a.
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