Teaching an old dog new tricks!

I just started brewing again after maybe 15-20 years of not brewing, and quickly decided to get into full mash brewing. Now that I finally have a 9 gallon brew pot and a hefty burner, I just got the first batch into the primary!

Alot of things have changed since I used to brew:
* Whirlpooling
* Whirlfloc instead of Irish moss
* Single temp Infusion cooler mash/lautering with a modified stainless water supply drain.
* Going back to single stage, but in glass, for "some" ales.
* Aerating wort with O2 or filtered aqarium pumps
* Using dried yeasts again without lousy results

I tried to "teach" myself (the old dog) some of these "new" techniques. But of course, I have some questions.

1. In all grain brewing, how does one get to exactly the final, boiled down volume? Do you shoot for a little less, and add a slight amount of top up water? I wound up slightly low on this first batch, but didn't top up because my S.G. was spot on according to the recipe.
2. The whirlpooling worked great! But I left more liquid in the pot than usual. Is this why everyone seems to shoot for a 5.5 gal final volume in the pot? (That's what I did)

(practicing RDWHAHB as I type),
Rich

Edit: BTW, I was overjoyed to hit my target mash temp with no adjustments, first time! Just pre-heated the cooler and used the standard forumulas for strike water!

Welcome back to Home Brewing. You picked a good place to ask questions. I have learned tons from this website.

This is a common reference I use too. How to Brew - By John Palmer

Question #1)

I use software to do the calculations. ProMash. Its old but there are several newer software package available. Peruse the software forum. Through trial & error I know my system, with software help, that I have an 18% evaporation rate. I use a yardstick to measure volume to kind of double check mash volume & water loss. I always get what Promash tells me if I follow the water usage. So I no longer need to make end of boil water additions.

Question #2)

I make 6 gallon batches for leaving some behind in the kettle, primary and if needed in the 2ndary. In the end I want 5 gallons of clean beer going to a bottling bucket or a keg.

BTW - Kegging is super easy now. You should investigate it if you are serious about the hobby. Its pretty cheap and totally beats bottling if you are making quick quaffers. I still bottle stuff that I want to keep for a year or more.

Cheers!!!

Welcome Back!

1) it is all trial and error. know your system. I know that if I get 7.25 gallons into the brew kettle, i will end up with 5.5 in the primary, giving me 5 in the keg after trub loss. once you know what you need, it just flows.
also, you are right in not topping off. my feeling is i would rather have 4.5 gallons of beer that is spot-on than 5 gallons of watered down

2) bingo. plenty people make their recipes for 5.5-6 gallons so that with all that gets lost along the way, the beer ends up correct and not too heavy or light

We knew you would come back. The beer forgives you.

I don't have too much to add to the previous answers except to reiterate the new revolution that is brewing software. I use Beersmith. It's stupidly cheap and invaluable.

Schlenkerla said:

Welcome back to Home Brewing. You picked a good place to ask questions. I have learned tons from this website.

This is a common reference I use too. How to Brew - By John Palmer

Click to expand...

I used that one alot! Also have been lurking and searching here and another forum.

Schlenkerla said:

I use software to do the calculations. ProMash. Its old but there are several newer software package available. Peruse the software forum. Through trial & error I know my system, with software help, that I have an 18% evaporation rate. I use a yardstick to measure volume to kind of double check mash volume & water loss. I always get what Promash tells me if I follow the water usage. So I no longer need to make end of boil water additions.

Click to expand...

I am using SW, alot of the free stuff, web sites(BeerTools), and/or spreadsheets. They really help! I used a "store" grind on this first one, so getting as close(efficiency) as I did it was very nice. A grinder is coming, so after a couple of batches, I'll probably get it all dialed in as most of you have.

Does ProMash actually allow you to enter your evap rate? I sort of chose a 6.5 Gal start and 5.5 gal finish when I devised the recipe. Just boiled off a touch more than anticipated. I assumed a 75% brewhouse efficiency, but got something slightly less (grind not under my control, yet!)

It's so cool now with enough BTUs that I can actually change the boil off rate! So I guess you just adjust the boil properly and just measure the water loss to calibrate?

Schlenkerla said:

BTW - Kegging is super easy now. You should investigate it if you are serious about the hobby. Its pretty cheap and totally beats bottling if you are making quick quaffers. I still bottle stuff that I want to keep for a year or more.

Click to expand...

I was going to use my chest freezer with a thermostat, but SWMBO uses it for freezing garden vegetables and spagetti sauce. I have a small fridge in the bonus room, but it's just shy of being tall enough for a kegerator conversion. So I'm currently trying the TAP-A-DRAFT. Got one batch in 6 liter bottles, just waiting for conditioning. You pretty much have to bottle condition with that system, as it wastes alot of CO2 cartridges to force condition.....

Still, cleaning three bottles vs. 50 or so, that part is nice.

yea, the Tap-A-Draft is nice. I used it for a bit. A great intermediate from bottling to kegging.

Berserker_Brew said:

yea, the Tap-A-Draft is nice. I used it for a bit. A great intermediate from bottling to kegging.

Click to expand...

Some day....

RichBenn said:

Does ProMash actually allow you to enter your evap rate?

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Yes you just type in the number. 15% is typical. You enter in known water losses in various fields. Ea. Brew Kettle, Hop back, and MLT. You adjust the evaporation rate and the pre-boil water additions. I generally don't need to add pre-boil water unless its a small grain bill with a long boil time.

One of the best recipes to start AG is Edworts Haus PA. Water neeeded is all spelled out in the recipe.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f66/bee-cave-brewery-haus-pale-ale-31793/

Schlenkerla said:

Yes you just type in the number. 15% is typical. You enter in known water losses in various fields. Ea. Brew Kettle, Hop back, and MLT. You adjust the evaporation rate and the pre-boil water additions. I generally don't need to add pre-boil water unless its a small grain bill with a long boil time.

One of the best recipes to start AG is Edworts Haus PA. Water neeeded is all spelled out in the recipe.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f66/bee-cave-brewery-haus-pale-ale-31793/

Click to expand...

LOL! My first all-grain was not far off from that(though a little darker):

8.5 lbs 2-row malt
1 lb Melanoidin malt
.5 lbs Dextrine malt
@152 degrees.
Cascade and Centennial hops(similar schedule)
Safale US-05

I'm basically a hop head, but was looking for something a little more session like than the typical IPA/double IPA, but it sounds like AG is Edworts Haus PA fits that bill.

I'll post my whole recipe in the recipe section if it comes out. I was looking for something different than the typical crystal-only additions for color and flavor, but didn't want decoction mash (Vienna and Munich) to bring out the melanoidin flavor.

Thanks again,
Rich