I am just to inexperienced for them my last one was ok but this one is even worse. It has the hefe taste but a pretty bad after taste of like Tylenol or something I just kegged so I'll give it a week but I think I'm done with them for now.
I give up on hefe
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Silhou3tt3
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Can you give us specifics on how you went about brewing and fermenting it? From what I have learned a few tweaks in your process can go a long ways to making good beer.
scottballz
Well-Known Member
What kind of sanitizer are you using? chlorine, or bleach, based sanitizers can have a reaction with yeast phenols and can cause a medicinal like flavor.
What are your fermentation temperatures? If I remember right some yeasts fermented at high temps can put off that taste. Are you using tap water or using chlorine to clean your equipment? It could be from chlorine/chloramines in your tap water. I've started using campden tablets to knock out that issue. Don't give up yet!
I used the northern brewer bavarian-hefeweizen kit. But I have a 10 gallon mash tun and a 8 gallon kettle. I used rice hulls this time while mashing so I would get a stuck spare again like last time. But I used a half a pound witch after researching is to much lol. But I mashed at 154 F 3 gallons for 60 mins couldn't get it to 152 F drained thw wort then mashed out with another 3 gallons for 10 mins. Next trouble came in with I could get the grain bed to set and filter it's self of the little grain that comes threw so I just said screw it and drove on with the boil for 60 min with 10 Oz German tettnang hops. Sorry my grain bill was 5.5 lbs weyermann pale wheat malt and 4 lbs of German pilsner malt. Then I cooled it to 70 F and pitched the yeast fermented at 65 to 70 cause the house temp fluctuations.
10 oz of hops? Is that correct?
I mean it looks fine to me except it does have quit a bit of fine sediment in it too
View attachment 1429405827568.jpg
View attachment 1429405827568.jpg
What type of water are you using, tap or bottle..That beer looks like weak lemonade..Most of my hefes are a bit cloudy as this is the style, but are usually more deeper gold in color and clearer than yours to be honest. Not seeing alot of head on that bad boy either.
Are you hitting your starting gravity numbers/final gravity numbers?
The grain bed not settling can create some oddball looking beers, mess with your efficiency and honestly the more grain ends up in your pot, the more the potential for off-flavors to occur. I try to vorlauf until I can get the runnings from the MT as clear as possible.
These days I recirc on my new system so it clears itself, but when I was not recircing, I would vorlauf like hell until the grain bed settled and the wort cleared.
The other option is to strain your runnings through something like a BIAB bag or paint strainer bag before it hits the BK to keep the grain/husks out of the boil.
Sounds like you may want to dial in the MT process wise to get that grain bill to settle and makes sure you are getting keeping as much of the grain/husks particles out of the BK as well as hitting your efficiency numbers. The only time I had have trouble setting my grain bed is when I do pumpkin beers. Most of the time, stuck sparges are not a problem with any other style.
Also, are you getting your grains crushed in your kits when you order them? I also noticed I had issues with efficiency until I started crushing my own grains on brew day as the crush is all dependent on the kit seller which sometimes is not ideal crush-wise.
Just some ideas and suggestions..
Are you hitting your starting gravity numbers/final gravity numbers?
The grain bed not settling can create some oddball looking beers, mess with your efficiency and honestly the more grain ends up in your pot, the more the potential for off-flavors to occur. I try to vorlauf until I can get the runnings from the MT as clear as possible.
These days I recirc on my new system so it clears itself, but when I was not recircing, I would vorlauf like hell until the grain bed settled and the wort cleared.
The other option is to strain your runnings through something like a BIAB bag or paint strainer bag before it hits the BK to keep the grain/husks out of the boil.
Sounds like you may want to dial in the MT process wise to get that grain bill to settle and makes sure you are getting keeping as much of the grain/husks particles out of the BK as well as hitting your efficiency numbers. The only time I had have trouble setting my grain bed is when I do pumpkin beers. Most of the time, stuck sparges are not a problem with any other style.
Also, are you getting your grains crushed in your kits when you order them? I also noticed I had issues with efficiency until I started crushing my own grains on brew day as the crush is all dependent on the kit seller which sometimes is not ideal crush-wise.
Just some ideas and suggestions..
Is it carbonated. You should be getting a big thick creamy foamy head with a Hefe that should last. The wheat malt has lots of proteins. This pic does not look right for a Hefe.
I do mine at a lower mash temp 148-150.
Ferment at 10 days with the Weihenstephaner strain. a noble hop to target 12 IBU. It's all based on Edwort's recipe.
A light train bill like this often can result in a pH a little high. Mash acidification is oft needed
I do mine at a lower mash temp 148-150.
Ferment at 10 days with the Weihenstephaner strain. a noble hop to target 12 IBU. It's all based on Edwort's recipe.
A light train bill like this often can result in a pH a little high. Mash acidification is oft needed
The recipe mentioned in this one is located here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=35679
This is a GREAT Hefe recipe and is usually the one I make when its Hefe making time. The grain bill is larger than yours as well by about 2.5lbs.
Take a look at post #1223 on that recipe thread for a pic of what your hefe should be looking like as its right on with how mine turn out color and head wise.
I dont think the carbing is your problem. Usually the beer will still taste like the beer it will be minus the bubbles if its not carbed. I 100% agree with the previous poster that yours does not look right..it has to be water or efficiency problems..
My suggestion, try EdWorts recipe. Get some store spring water and retry. Use the suggested yeast and check your gravity numbers before and after fermentation to be sure you are hitting your numbers. Also vorlauf like hell and strain the wort before it goes to the BK if needed to keep the husks/grains out of your BK.
Ferment at the right temp and I bet you get a rockstar hefe out of it.
I would not toss the batch you made..I would honestly let it ride for another week or 2 to see if it comes around and at least settles some of that odd flavor out. It could settle out enough to drink..
My version of Edwort's Hefe
Another.
Edwort's Hefe is a solid recipe. Simple and tasty.
Edwort's Hefe is a solid recipe. Simple and tasty.
I'd also throw out the idea that your fermentation might be struggling. Are you using liquid yeast with a starter? If not , a poor ferment can actually cause problems with head retention and obviously taste. I also second those who mentioned water and mash ph, wheat beers are especially temperamental when it comes to ph, and can easily become astringent if the ph is out of wack. Honestly I wouldn't worry about 154 versus 152, just rdwhahb and let it ride. Oh fyi, a half pound rice hulls is not too much, especially if you are having issues with a stuck sparge. The rice hulls lend no flavor, so you can't really overdo them.
Liquid yeast and a starter really isn't necessary for a hefeweizen unless you only work with liquid yeast vials. Most hefeweizens shouldn't be over 1.055, which is under the maximum range for a smack pack or dry yeast. My 1.045 hefeweizen uses WB-06 with no starter and comes out great. I would say that the temperature isn't the issue, for sure, I suspect water chemistry issues or some sort of chemical contamination.
Totally agree with you here. For liquid yeast I would support the practice of always using a starter. 100 billion cells at time of manufacture is not enough for optimal pitch rate. Yeast viability will start to decline immediately.
If pitching the optimal amount of healthy yeast is something that concerns you then a starter for liquid yeasts is imperative and a simple and effective tool. A hefe derives its flavor profile from the yeast so it is especially important to get the right amount of healthy yeast for this style. With no starter you have no control.
Try any of the online calculators that use the best available data on pitch rate and you will find a starter to be needed in all instances for all beers. There are, I'm sure exceptions but I have yet to encounter them.
There will be lots of folks that will tell you that they pitch a vial or a smack pack and have no problems. That's great but I tend to follow the evidence based approach to pitch rate and yeast management. For dry yeast, rehydrate as per the manufacturers' instructions. Nothing could be simpler. My approach is not for all. Some may rebut me and argue in favor of other methods.
Fermentation temperature is also very important. Control it.
In summary, if using liquid yeast, make a starter. It's very easy and effective. If using dry, rehydrate it, and control fermentation temperatures regardless of yeast type.
It's the sum of all the little things that will help you make great delicious beer of which you can be proud. Yeast management is fun,simple and pays tasty dividends.
There were a couple mentions of mash acidification. That's pretty important In a beer like this that uses all light grains. If the mash pH is too high, it can make the beer taste off.
I made a batch of Centennial Blonde (all light grains) and I thought it was awful. That was the batch that prompted me to start looking at water chemistry.
The primer here says that, when you use all light grains , you should add aciduated malt in an amount that's 3% of the total grain bill. Try that next time. I bet it'll help. Here's a link to the primer.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=198460
I made a batch of Centennial Blonde (all light grains) and I thought it was awful. That was the batch that prompted me to start looking at water chemistry.
The primer here says that, when you use all light grains , you should add aciduated malt in an amount that's 3% of the total grain bill. Try that next time. I bet it'll help. Here's a link to the primer.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=198460
I echo fellow Wisconsinite JonM on using acidulated malt. I have adopted Gordon Strong's practice of only mashing my base malts and those that need help (flaked oats, barley, etc.) and steeping my dark grains and specialties separately. It means that all my mashes are light grains. It is an automatic to add 2 or 3% of acidulated malt and I have had rock solid mash pH ever since. I have acid that I can add to the strike water but I haven't done so, as using the acid malt is just too darn easy.
Now, I also use RO water, as my well water is off the charts for hardness, so that helps with my mash pH consistency as well.
Now, I also use RO water, as my well water is off the charts for hardness, so that helps with my mash pH consistency as well.
I don't see anything in your descriptions that suggest your methods would cause the head to dissipate quickly. That usually has to do with the serving glassware having a soap residue or an anti-spotting agent in the dishwasher. Wash some of your glassware by hand and rinse very well and see if that helps hold the head. I expect my beers to still have some head on them when I finish drinking the beer, half an hour after I pour it.
Off topic a bit, but a batch of Centennial Blonde was exactly what prompted me to look at water chemistry as well. My CB came out very grainy, a bit astringent, and just didn't taste good. I knew it had to be my process because a million homebrewers have given that recipe rave reviews.
Back on topic, with regard to the head issues, I truly believe those issues come from your process, and not necessarily your ingredients. Try reading up on mash ph and ensure you have a good strong and healthy ferment at the right temps. You'll be pleasantly surprised at the results I think.
Heh. I tasted mine, thought something was wrong and handed it to SWMBO for a second opinion. She tasted it, made a yuck face and said "Ooohhh! Blech! ... I mean uh, that's GREAT, honey" with a wink and a playfully sarcastic thumbs up.
Not sure I'd aggree with you there RM-MN. All my glassware hoes through the dying cycle with a rinse aid in the dishwasher with no ill effects on head retention.
The OP mentions sediment at the bottom of the glass of beer. I think this speaks to a process error rather than a coating on the glass. For sure certain cleaners can cause this but seems a bit drastic to loose all the head in 30 seconds for a Hefe. Usually the head will last all the way to the end of the glass.
Ok here it is the out come. I don't know what I did but I fixed the carb issue. Ended up turning out ok just very low abv lol
View attachment 1429988171060.jpg
View attachment 1429988171060.jpg
Now that looks sublime.
Is that the same batch?
Is that the same batch?
Nice work. Boom! Mongster, forever in his debt.
BTW, your not in Dublin by any chance?
