Adjusting a burner height

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VermVerm

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Location
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Question:

Does it make sense to drill new holes and move the flame of a bayou classic closer to the bottom of my brewpot. My HLT will not heat up very quickly at all. 30k BTU. Any dangers? Anyone done this?

Verm
 
No danger, as long as you don't get too close, which would cause incomplete combutsion, and produce excess Carbon Monoxide, which is toxic. When adjusting distance, make sure that nothing other than the very tip of the flame touches the bottom af the pot. If the flame is orange, you are too close.
 
I am having the same problem with my brew stand. I have the burners too close the the keggle(2"-2 1/4") on the last brew we moved the keggle up 1/2 (copper pipe under the keggle) and I was able to get a better boil and the flame did look better so I am planing on droping the burners 2" if this is too much I can drill new holes and move it up.
 
You want the kettle just above the blue cone of the flame.

No. 4 looks good.

image1xq0.jpg
 
orfy said:
You want the kettle just above the blue cone of the flame.




Mine is more like 2.5 inches (I don't know in metric) above #4 and just won't do the job. It was 35*F today and I couldn't get it to even 170*F after 45 minutes.

Now where the heck is my drill?
 
Would like some input on this as well as I am planning on hard lining my gas soon and would like to have the pipe at the right height when I start (without having to move it :))
 
wshymas,

Are you running propane or natural gas? I've been trying to get my wok burners working better and I'm coming to the conclusion they are not the best burner for the job. (Too many of the the problems bobby_m has mentioned in several posts.)

If they're NG, where'd you find them?

Thanks...
 
I would like to know as well what a good height is. Does anyone have personal experience with natural gas burner height? I am reading anywhere from 4 to 16 inches. Mine are BK 7 inches, HLT 8 inches and it is more orange in the flame than I would like, and it puts out a ton of heat around the kettles. Was afraid the handle coating on the kettle valves would melt and had to move my March pump from underneath as it was getting to hot.

 
The photo shows a short L bracket welded to the brew frame.
The easy way would be support the burners while keep lowering them until
there is 1/4" clearance above the blue flame tips to the keg bottom. Measure
this distance from the burner bolt holes then slot some material stock long enough for the burner bolts to slide along in this longer stock that will be welded to your short angle iron stubs for a fully adjustable burner distance control. I would add a heat shield ring around the burners from the burner bottom up to 1 1/2" below the keg skirt bottom. You need to contain the flame heat within reason with your combustion volume but at the same time allow the flow of hot gases out or you will have the hot gases reflect back towards the burner causing the flames to get blown out and the burners overheat. I would also add a heat shield to protect everthing under the burners like your pumps and lines besides your legs if standing near the rig. Your gas pressures should be set first before you start relocating the your burners. Little details, looks like your almost there.
 
i have mine 4 1/2'' from the burner to the keg support and can adjust them up 1'' and down 3'' you want the flame under the keg not touching it.

if you have used a torch alot the hotest part of the flame is about a 1/4'' from the tip not the middle of the flame.

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hope this helps

P.S. natural gas
 

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