Anyone use WLP051?

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Mrcrowley269

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This is my second time to use WLP051 and the second time the airlock showed activity for only 1 day. I had saved some from my first batch and decided to reuse. I washed the yeast and am not sure what I should look for, as you can see in the attached pic, there is a bright / light color on the top. I figure that is the active yeast, and a darker color on the bottom. Since I washed, and use a hop bag, there should have been very little Trub. I pitcher 1 jar, did not see any activity after about 24 hours. I pitcher a second jar, after 24 hours I saw very little activity so I bought a new vial of WLP051 and pitched. After about 12 hours the airlock was bubbling. 10 hours later, nothing. I put a flash light on top of the bucket and could see there the kraeusen line had formed and resided. I was just thinking 24-48 hours of activity seemed a little short. I didn't take an OG, but will wait a week or two and take a FG to see of I came close to it according to the recipe, which is a fat tire clone from AHS.



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I use the Wy 1272 (same strain) quite a bit and I really like it. I wouldn't worry about your airlock activity, or lack thereof, as it's not a sign of fermentation. take gravity readings to see where you're at. IME, that strain should attenuate to ~77% or so (I've gotten as high as ~80%, as low as ~72%), it's pretty clean, maybe a bit citrus-y/fruity depending on temps, and it has a nice little flavor that plays well with the malt too. Pretty good yeast.
 
What temp are you fermenting at? What is the current SG?

If this is just an extract kit, the expected OG on the package should be accurate - what is it?
 
Haven't taken a gravity reading yet...I will give it more time. I have it in a closet at about 79 to 80. I have a cream ale brewed same day back to back. It has WLP080 and has been going for 3 solid days. I doubt the fat tire is bad or the yeast is bad, just wondering if someone saw a quick ferment with WLP051? I will update the post. Just seemed weird to me that it went so fast. Like I said, the kraeusen had risen and appears to have resided, in less than 48 hours.
 
Oh...the wort was maybe 85 tops. I brewed it first and cooled it down to under 90 while I brewed the cream ale. Pitched yeast at same time, but the added vial was at least 24 hours later than the cream ale.
 
You fermented @ 85°!
Wow! I believe the temperature range on that yeast is from 62°-69°. Fermented @ 85° it's very possible that it's done.
I wouldn't be surprised if it's hot and fruity.
Try to pitch at or slightly below the optimal fermenting range for the strain of yeast you're using.
Good luck,
Bull
 
Oh...the wort was maybe 85 tops. I brewed it first and cooled it down to under 90 while I brewed the cream ale. Pitched yeast at same time, but the added vial was at least 24 hours later than the cream ale.

Yeah, that's way hot for that yeast. WAY hot! That's most likely the issue you're having w/it. When I mentioned above all those good things about this strain, I was referring to fermenting it in it's temp range, on the low side. I find it works best in the low 60's, it'll get a bit fruity in the high 60s, and I've never tried it above 68ish, but I bet it, like most ale yeasts, will get pretty funky at temps over 70.
 
NordeastBrewer77 said:
I use the Wy 1272 (same strain) quite a bit and I really like it. I wouldn't worry about your airlock activity, or lack thereof, as it's not a sign of fermentation

You are over generalizing airlock activity and making an invalid statement there . Production of CO2 is the most obvious sign of proper fermentation so be careful what you are saying. As long as the carboy is sealed and the yeast are fermenting the sugars, CO2 will be coming out of the air lock.

He could have missed the peak of the activity but a complete lack of activity is a bad sign assuming his equipment is sealed up. He just needs to take a hydrometer reading now to see if he missed the fermentation or if the yeast pooped out.
 
You are over generalizing airlock activity and making an invalid statement there . Production of CO2 is the most obvious sign of proper fermentation so be careful what you are saying. As long as the carboy is sealed and the yeast are fermenting the sugars, CO2 will be coming out of the air lock.

He could have missed the peak of the activity but a complete lack of activity is a bad sign assuming his equipment is sealed up. He just needs to take a hydrometer reading now to see if he missed the fermentation or if the yeast pooped out.

Hmmmm, I seem to recall my hydrometer being a touch more accurate than my airlocks. Maybe I have it backwards..... :confused: You even said yourself, 'assuming his equipment is sealed up', the airlock not bubbling is a 'bad sign'. Especially considering that one of the more commonly used fermenters (BB Ale Pail's) are notorious for not sealing, arguing that his airlock is a valid sign of activity kinda seems silly to me. Most of us would rather take a measurement instead of assuming.... ya know what they say.
 
NordeastBrewer77 said:
Hmmmm, I seem to recall my hydrometer being a touch more accurate than my airlocks. Maybe I have it backwards..... :confused: You even said yourself, 'assuming his equipment is sealed up', the airlock not bubbling is a 'bad sign'. Especially considering that one of the more commonly used fermenters (BB Ale Pail's) are notorious for not sealing, arguing that his airlock is a valid sign of activity kinda seems silly to me. Most of us would rather take a measurement instead of assuming.... ya know what they say.

I am not talking about measurements or even the degree if airlock activity, I am talking about your comment that elutes to zero airlock activity not being something to worry about.

If there is no airlock activity during fermentation then you have an issue either with sealing up your FV or with yeast not being able to convert sugars. Nothing too confusing there.
 
I wouldn't worry about your airlock activity, or lack thereof, as it's not a sign of fermentation.

I think this is the statement he was taking issue with. Airlock activity is a sign of fermentation. Given certain conditions some fermentations will not show any airlock activity, but in most cases a bubbling airlock means fermentation is in progress.
 
I think this is the statement he was taking issue with. Airlock activity is a sign of fermentation. Given certain conditions some fermentations will not show any airlock activity, but in most cases a bubbling airlock means fermentation is in progress.

I got that part, but it's incorrect. I have a No 3 Burton that's been aging in secondary for months and the airlock still bubbles. Conversely, I have an IPA that's been in primary for ~11 days and the airlock is down on the post. An airlock is simply a vent for co2 to escape. Bubbling can mean it's fermenting, or it can mean it's warmed up a bit, the barometric pressure dropped or the cat loved up on the bucket. An airlock not bubbling simply means no co2 is leaving the fermenter. In the case of the OP's scenario, he fermented at ~80+ degrees with a quick working yeast. His airlock was bubbling, now it's not. He needs to take a gravity reading to know what's going on, since the airlock isn't telling him.

Columbus, I get your point, but it's ill advised to use an airlock to gauge anything except for maybe the beginning of fermentation if you're not using a clear vessel. I was merely stating better practice to the OP, since it seemed he was of the thought that the airlock was a way to tell what's going on. Sorry if you don't agree with that, but it's fairly common practice to take FG readings after signs of activity slow or cease. :mug:
 
NordeastBrewer77 said:
I got that part, but it's incorrect. I have a No 3 Burton that's been aging in secondary for months and the airlock still bubbles. Conversely, I have an IPA that's been in primary for ~11 days and the airlock is down on the post. An airlock is simply a vent for co2 to escape. Bubbling can mean it's fermenting, or it can mean it's warmed up a bit, the barometric pressure dropped or the cat loved up on the bucket. An airlock not bubbling simply means no co2 is leaving the fermenter. In the case of the OP's scenario, he fermented at ~80+ degrees with a quick working yeast. His airlock was bubbling, now it's not. He needs to take a gravity reading to know what's going on, since the airlock isn't telling him.

Columbus, I get your point, but it's ill advised to use an airlock to gauge anything except for maybe the beginning of fermentation if you're not using a clear vessel. I was merely stating better practice to the OP, since it seemed he was of the thought that the airlock was a way to tell what's going on. Sorry if you don't agree with that, but it's fairly common practice to take FG readings after signs of activity slow or cease. :mug:

I know what you were getting at and I am not even saying you were wrong but your statement could be misinterpreted to overlooking an important (and easy) troubleshooting step for poor fermentation conditions. No one is talking about secondary fermentation either...I apologize for not being clear if that was the case. Secondary ferm is a different story.

It is not ill advice, it is actually very good advice. If there is a complete lack of airlock activity in the primary fermentation, there is an issue wouldn't you agree?
 
Haha, chill guys. In general when beer is fermenting the airlock will bubble if the lid is sealed. Sometimes the beer may degas causing the airlock to bubble even when fermentation is complete. Always use a hydrometer to be sure.


The part that really boggles my mind is that the OP took the time to learn how to wash yeast, but ferments at 85*F ?!? Cart before the horse much?
 
Haha, chill guys. In general when beer is fermenting the airlock will bubble if the lid is sealed. Sometimes the beer may degas causing the airlock to bubble even when fermentation is complete. Always use a hydrometer to be sure.


The part that really boggles my mind is that the OP took the time to learn how to wash yeast, but ferments at 85*F ?!? Cart before the horse much?

Exactly, that's all I was tryin' to say. The airlock bubbles for various reasons and the only way to know what's actually up is to take a reading.

And yeah, I think the real issue in this thread is that the OP fermented at ~80+ degrees, and thus had a very fast, and probably very 'flavorful' fermentation. Now that it's over and the beer's inevitably cooling off from peak temp, the airlock will surely drop to the post. The OP would have to, of course, take a gravity reading to know for sure if the yeast finished the job or if they pooped out due to high temp, which sounds like his concern here. :mug:
 
In Florida its almost impossible to hit target yeast temperature since we never have winter over here. To set my thermostat down to 68 is insane for me, considering that I usually get on by comfortable at 77-78.

course, at 78, this yeast didn't do so well for me.....I recommend to never use it in a stout. Will give off too many fruity flavors (and not the dark fruity flavors that work well in stouts).

It is worth mentioning that the stout I did make was the only un-drinkable flop I've ever brewed, and admittedly I'm not a fan of the yest, But I think It can still see some use.

I might make an IPA or a red ale with the strains I still have left, and this time I'm keeping the ac down to 75, with a fan on the fermentor for the first 48 hours. Should keep it cool during the rigorous parts of fermentation, and hopefully with a few more tips and tricks Ive learned since using it I can make a pretty decent brew.
 
Get yourself a chest freezer and a temperature control ( Johnson or Ranco & go digital) and you'll never look back. Total control of temperature during fermentation is really key. You can also cold crash and use it as a kegerator as well.
 
I've only used this strain for wheat ales, but I have an IPA in the primary right now that I used it in as an experiment. I've found with the wheats that if I let it get up into the 72-74 degree range for a day or two it produces some very unique, subtle, passionfruit flavors that go well with a citrusy dry-hop.

If I were the OP, I would let the beer sit on the yeast cake untill it hits final gravity OR for 2-3 weeks, whichever comes last, regardless of airlock activity, then dry-hop with an ounce or two of cascade or amarillo (assuming that will work with your style, I didn't catch what you were brewing).
 
In Florida its almost impossible to hit target yeast temperature since we never have winter over here. To set my thermostat down to 68 is insane for me, considering that I usually get on by comfortable at 77-78.

course, at 78, this yeast didn't do so well for me.....I recommend to never use it in a stout. Will give off too many fruity flavors (and not the dark fruity flavors that work well in stouts).

It is worth mentioning that the stout I did make was the only un-drinkable flop I've ever brewed, and admittedly I'm not a fan of the yest, But I think It can still see some use.

I wouldn't judge this strain based on a fermentation that took place at least ten degrees warmer than the temps this strain works best at. IME, this strain becomes a muddled, fruity mess at temps over 70-72 in the wort, and works best at 68 or below. With ambient temps at ~78 (meaning 80+ for sure in the wort), you have no one, especially not the yeast, to blame for a sub par beer.
 
I wouldn't judge this strain based on a fermentation that took place at least ten degrees warmer than the temps this strain works best at. IME, this strain becomes a muddled, fruity mess at temps over 70-72 in the wort, and works best at 68 or below. With ambient temps at ~78 (meaning 80+ for sure in the wort), you have no one, especially not the yeast, to blame for a sub par beer.

personally, I blame the weather for it not working out. In terms of the yeast working for me.

It was my first all grain batch and I screwed everything up in it (besides the yeast), so yea my example is perhaps not the best.

a later use of it came out OK but still, temperature control in fl is still a ***** (without having to set your AC on full blast all the time or using a temperature controlled fridge).

I hold by my statement, defiantly not for darker styles, but still has potential
 
personally, I blame the weather for it not working out. In terms of the yeast working for me.

I hold by my statement, defiantly not for darker styles, but still has potential

That's just as silly. The entire nation has been experiencing a heat wave. "Hottest summer in US history" is what I read yesterday. I'm still fermenting beers in the low 60s if need be. The lack of an ability to control temps isn't the fault of the weather, it's up to the brewer to have some sort of temperature control. Check out a swamp cooler if you're looking for a cheap and easy way to maintain temps. All you need is a ~15 gal rubbermaid type tote, some water bottles you can re freeze, and a towel and a fan can be useful.
 
yea, true temperature control is up to the brewing but that doesn't make it any easier.

I think I'm gong to end up getting cool brewing's product, mostly because it seems the easiest and most effective way to keep my brew withing the proper temperature range.
 
I am currently using this yeast in a pumpkin ale, and it seems to be a very slow fermentation. No krausen, no cake, nothing. No bubbles in the airlock. It has been about 36 hours so far, and I am planning on taking a gravity reading tomorrow just to make sure something is happening in my carboy. It just looks like a carboy full of wort. Not sure I am a huge fan of this yeast so far, but I am staying optimistic so far.
 
Well, after keeping my carboy at about 68-70 deg F, I put it in the keezer last night before bed at 64deg F. Woke up to a about 1/2inch krausen on the top with bubbles in the airlock. Actual time from pitch to now is about 38 hours. I am happy it is starting to work, but it took a LOT longer than my others. Oh well, hope it turns out!! Cheers, RDWHAHB.
 
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