keggle rust driving me CRAZEY

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lostnfoam

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well i post a week or so ago about getting rust in my keggle after doing a dry run and heating up some water. well everyone gave me some good stuff so i tryed the simple stuff bar friend. it works great took the stuff right off. the problem is it still comes back right now i have some hot bath water sokeing ing the keggle and when i drain it i get a rust flim over the grind spots. ERRR its makeing me mad because i wanted to do a brew soon but i have to get this straight first.
 
How deep are the grinder marks on the inside of the keg, could you sand them out and use BKF to passivate. If the BKF does not clean it up then use the oxalic acid to remove the iron deposits or use the wonder gel. A word of caution using the wonder gel, it is a potent mix of nitric acid and flourides and you need acid resistant gloves and a face sheild when applying and removing this material. Having used this product before it works wonders removing the discoloration around welds but would not recomend this for some one not used to handling strong chemical cleaners and products that contain hydroflouric acid.
 
no i ahvent used any steel wool. i started to notice that the first time i heated some water in the keggle. some spot shave cleared up when i used the bkf. however i still get some around the welds and some grind marks. i now thinking about getting some sand paper and cleaning the grind spots. any recomendation for type of paper how long should i sand the spot any info would be great. i must say all the hepl ive been getting is great.
 
lostnfoam said:
no i ahvent used any steel wool. i started to notice that the first time i heated some water in the keggle. some spot shave cleared up when i used the bkf. however i still get some around the welds and some grind marks. i now thinking about getting some sand paper and cleaning the grind spots. any recomendation for type of paper how long should i sand the spot any info would be great. i must say all the hepl ive been getting is great.
I prefer 320 grit wet/dry paper for the type of work you're doing. However, I also prefer using a power tool (like a die grinder with a sanding drum) to move the paper fast enough to make a difference. I'm afraid sanding by hand will probably take forever.
 
mmm i have to see if i could find a sander. would a dremml work? now when im sandin am i trying to make the area look clean? man this is turning out to be a project but is fun
 
lostnfoam said:
mmm i have to see if i could find a sander. would a dremml work? now when im sandin am i trying to make the area look clean? man this is turning out to be a project but is fun
I would smooth any roughness out of the welds and grind marks. Just be careful not to sand the keg wall too thin - that'll be a whole different problem to deal with. The smoother the surface, the easier it should be to get your re-passivating techniques to work on it (less cracks/fissures/bubbles/craters = less trapped air and/or free iron).
 
i know my friend has a grind wheel. just wondering if that would be over kill. the area is alittle ruff not to bad. the grinds are the just hard to get to. so far i know some spots are clear from useing the bkf. so ill do as u say and try the paper. ill do it by hand first then try a power tool so i dont make a mess of things.
 

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