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Mash Hawk II - Gauging Some Interest

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irpinc

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I've been discussing a few options for the Mash Hawk with our engineers. I've been pitching them on lowering the core for higher capacity (22-25 gallons?) and adding a second molded-in drain for a temp or 2nd ball valve or whatever ya think.

We would have to cut into one of the existing molds. They said they would be willing if the interest is there.

Let me know if there's anything else you guys can think of and what type of interest ya think there would be.

Thanks all again!
 
I would be interested if it was upped 22-25 gallons. The other thing it would be nice to see changed is there being just one step on the bottom and it being uniform.

If the area circled in red could be filled in so it would be easier to get a full false bottom that would be great

mashhawk.jpg
 
I was almost thinking of eliminating the step all together? We have a reservoir plate that we put over to keep grey water from the bottles/cans. Thats the reason for this step.

what ya think?
 
The only thing that would really up the cost if the draw of the longer core would need more plastic. I won't bore ya with the tech side of it. but I'm thinking it really shouldn't add anything.
 
It would be nice to have a small step just so the false bottom is kept off the bottom without it having to be a dome shape or have feet
 
A propper, insulated lid would be great. The ability to add an extra port for thermometer, sight glass, or water heater element would be nice too. A difinitive answer on whether this could be used to boil would also be nice.
 
A propper, insulated lid would be great. The ability to add an extra port for thermometer, sight glass, or water heater element would be nice too. A difinitive answer on whether this could be used to boil would also be nice.

I can't ever see boiling in plastic, even as cheap as I am.:D
 
Since the inner core depth is flexible at this point, I'd run it almost all the way down to the bottom of the outer shell. However, it should stop short of the very bottom because the ideal configuration would have the drain port in the bottom, not the side. In addition to that, the edge should have a small lip all the way around, about 1" wide and 1/2" high to provide a shelf for anyone that wants to run a full false bottom, but not encumber people who just want to use a braid.

I don't agree with adding multiple molded in bulkheads simply because it's not hard to add your own anywhere you want. If they are molded in, now users who don't need them have to figure out how to plug them. You'll have more flexibility by not having ANY molded in holes.

I'd say the main advantage of this thing would be that it would be the only cylindrical ready to go "cooler" with that large of a capacity. Sure, you can get a 120 or 150qt rectangular cooler, but it's not really a decent fly sparging vessel and the footprint is pretty darn huge. Your 80qt or so "mashhawk" could be a fully draining bottom port fly sparging vessel. I certainly don't have any need for this kind of capacity but if I did, I would choose it over a large rectangular cooler.
 
Been following these threads a bit. Just my .02 realizing everyone has their own priorities. I can see Bobby's point that less ports makes the unit more user configureable. The downside to that is that the factory ports are sealed through with plastic which is great for ensuring liquid never makes it into the walls of the unit. Not knowing the work involved I would say the best of both worlds would be to allow multiple configurations from the factory with 1, 2, or 3 ports with appropriate surcharges or discounts to price. This would cater to anyone who wanted to get an electric element, thermometer, site glass etc and still have the integrity of an opening sealed to the walls of the unit.

Also extending the bottom further down as has been suggested allows a greater volume and possibly 20 gallon capacity. If such a change were made in the base mold I would be interested in knowing how difficult it would be to make a clean cut off the top as a configuration option to shorten the unit back to 15 gallons or so for 10 gallon batches. The primary concern being size and storability.

Nice evolving product by the way.

Cheers :mug:
 
Any weldless bulkheads you want to install are best done on the inside shell where you drill out the outside shell and insulation slightly larger to make room for the parts. There's very little value in trying to squeeze the two shells together.

Making ports custom orderable will kill the price because each one would be a one-off.
 
keep all the ideas and info comin! I'm pitching them again on Monday.
 
What about the idea of some pre-formed, but un-drilled bulkheads? That way people could easily drill out & use what they needed, but not have to bother plugging up unnecessary holes. Use it as it comes, or modify it easily.

I can see what people mean about not having the core exposed by drilling through the wall of the Mash tun, it might be nice to have some extra beef in the commonly used areas where a side drain or thermometer might go.
 
i reallly like bobby's idea. keeping it simple is the best idea. i am interested in this. i really like where this is going.
 
I don't know all that much about plastic molding but I suspect creating a mold that would create bulkhead inner walls without penetrating the inside skin would be pretty tough.

Another idea is to create a trim cup for bulkhead penetrations. Drill a 2" hole in the outer shell and insulation. Insert trim cup that bottoms out on the inner skin. Drill bulkhead hole through both.
 
So noticed no new posts in the thread or from irpinc in a couple weeks. Are there any updates on the product or upcoming configuration options?
 
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