adding salts based on Brewsmith water tool

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jedheuer

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Hey all,

I plugged in the numbers to Beersmith using Burton on Trent as a target profile (for an imperial IPA) and the amounts the software suggests I add are as follows:

Gypsum 36.1 grams
Epsom 22.7
CaCl 1.8
Baking Soda 9.8
Chalk 8.0


I am just learning about water conditioning so I wanted to check these numbers out with some folks who know more than me. I am using RO water with a TDS of around 11. Do these numbers seem right? To high? To low? out of balance?

Thanks for the help.
 
But wouldn't the calcium chloride negate the need for chalk? Wouldn't they be the same? Interesting that Beersmith came up with those additions. My initial research showed the other additions. I just got 6/9g packets of Burton Water Salts from Midwest for some .79c or so per each. One packet is good for 5 gallons of wort. It was marketed by LD Carlson.
I'm going to brew up V2 of my #3 Burton ale soon. I also am cutting the batch size from 6G (23L) down do 5G (19L) as well...maybe an even 20L (5.28G) so as to get the previous OG of 1.065 up to maybe 1.075. It went from 1.065 down to 1.018 with 6G,giving 6.8% according to cooper's formula (OG-FG)/7.46 + .5= %ABV.
I'd also like to ask if Beersmith can account for pre-hopped cans of LME? Or DME,for that matter?...
 
I am by no means an expert on this stuff, and have only been messing with water chemistry for 6 months or so, but your numbers look out of whack to me. Specifically, the baking soda. The profile I have for Burton shows 30ppm Sodium. If you put as much baking soda in as you have listed, the sodium will be way too high (and so will the bicarbonates).

I messed with ProMash's water calculator and got these additions to dose 10.6 gallons:

Gypsum: 31.8g
Epsom: 22.3g
CaCl: 3.2g
Baking Soda: 3.2g
Chalk: 6.4g

I used "distilled" water as the base water, and these additions give me the following profile:

Ca: 270 ppm (target for Burton: 268)
Mg: 55 ppm (target for Burton: 62)
Na: 22 ppm (target for Burton: 30)
SO4: 659 ppm (target for Burton 638)
Cl: 38 ppm (target for Burton 36)
HCO3: 151 ppm (target for Burton 141)
 
I'm going to use distilled water myself,seemed like the most logical way to do it economically. It seems to me that someplace said that Burtonizing the water accentuates the hop profile or something to that effect.?
 
I'm going to use distilled water myself,seemed like the most logical way to do it economically. It seems to me that someplace said that Burtonizing the water accentuates the hop profile or something to that effect.?

Yeah. That bit is about the ratio of chlorides to sulfates mainly. More sulfates than chlorides and you accentuate hops. More chlorides and sulfates and you accentuate malt.

Burton's water is REALLY hard and REALLY high in sulfates.
 
Yea, when putting the Burton numbers in most calculators, they show it to be too high and would cause over bittering. But my previous numbers from Beersmith were way high.
 
Well,I guess we'll find out how good LD Carlson's Burton Water Salts are pretty soon. I'm going to use the recommended 1 9g packet for 5 gallons,maybe 5.28 gallons (20L) on the next batch to get the OG up closer to the minimum OG 1.080 for the #3 Burton ale as listed in the sites where I read about it. My 1st attempt in bottles now is def in the Strong Ale category.
LD Carlson lists their ingredients as papain & gypsum.
 
LD Carlson lists their ingredients as papain & gypsum.

Papain is just for clarity, so all you are really adding to the water chemistry is gypsum, which contributes calcium and sulfates. It won't make your water look like "burton water", but it will jack up the sulfates in your water to accentuate hops.

You can just add gypsum and get the same effect as those "burton salts".
 
Well,so much for shortcuts. Now I'll have to find what adds to the malt side to balance it out some. Have to look at some more info on this...
 
Well,so much for shortcuts. Now I'll have to find what adds to the malt side to balance it out some. Have to look at some more info on this...

To bring the malt forward, you need Chloride. You can get Calcium Chloride at your LHBS to up the chlorides.

edit: you can also add good old NaCl salt to up chlorides, but you have to watch the sodium addition. and you have to use canning/kosher salt (salt without iodine added).
 
Well,being a 9g packet for 5 gallons,the calcium chloride addition shouldn't be much. But JW Dover,my LHBS,didn't know anything about Burton salts. But on the other hand,adding something that brings the hop profile up a little might be a good thing. At an even higher gravity than my 1st attempt,it'll need to age longer.
So that could be a good thing?...:mug:
 
10.6 gallons total. Preboil 7.25, post boil 6.

You would want to use 6 gallons as your volume for additions then. Some of those numbers look a bit high for 6 gallons. I know BeerSmith "best fits" the additions so you get a little over on some and a little under on others.
 
You would want to use 6 gallons as your volume for additions then. Some of those numbers look a bit high for 6 gallons. I know BeerSmith "best fits" the additions so you get a little over on some and a little under on others.

This is probably what I did wrong then. I used 10.5 as the water volume, not realizing that it will (mostly) all end up in the kettle minus whatever get left in the mash.
 
You would want to use 6 gallons as your volume for additions then. Some of those numbers look a bit high for 6 gallons. I know BeerSmith "best fits" the additions so you get a little over on some and a little under on others.

I disagree here.

The water profile for burton water is what they get out of the tap in Burton. So, the levels of minerals and whatnot (IMO) should be added to the full volume of water used to make the beer.

When you boil it, the levels will concentrate.... but they will also concentrate in the water that a Burton-based brewery uses, too.
 
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