RIMS Tube and Element, 5 Year Inspection

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processhead

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I wanted to add one of Bobby's stainless steel element enclosures to my RIMS tube so I disassembled it after 5 years of continuous use.

It has had probably 60 batches through the tube, and have never had it apart.
Aside from some corrosion on the element threads, I was surprised how clean the tube and the rest of element were.

I clean in place by circulating PBW solution through the pump and RIMS after finished brewing.

This is a 4500 watt 240 volt element running on 120 volts with a PID controlling temperatures.

2013-12-04 16.29.04 (Small).jpg
 
The base of my stainless steel RIMS tube element rusted when I left water in it for a few days. What brand is your heating element?
 
The base of my stainless steel RIMS tube element rusted when I left water in it for a few days. What brand is your heating element?

To be honest, I don't know. I think I got it at Lowe's but it could have been made by anyone.

My RIMS is all copper fittings.
 
Any chance you could post pictures and description of your entire system? Because it seems that it may be the cat's a** awesome!
 
Here's a thread that I posted a while back. It has a link to some pictures of the system.
I need to update the pictures. I have made some changes over the years.

edit: Added later pictures with modifications to my rims panel for electric kettles and misc. systems shots.

Also a direct link to the pictures below.

When I'm not brewing, the kettles and MLT tear down and get stored on hooks from the ceiling so I can use the counter space for other uses.

I have found that hose barb fittings and hose clamps make a cheap, reliable quick connect system with my system. Even the 1/2" copper line works well with 5/8" ID reinforced vinyl hose and hose clamps.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-system-45665/


http://s200.photobucket.com/user/processhead/slideshow/RIMS And Electric Brewery Gear
 
I have the ripple element and after only 5 batches I replaced due to rust. I found a thread on HBT that had a suggestion of adding an anode to the kettle. Haven't had a problem since.

Your element condition is very impressive after 60 batches with no tare down. How long do you usually recirculate PBW for?
 
To be honest, I don't know. I think I got it at Lowe's but it could have been made by anyone.

My RIMS is all copper fittings.

This makes me wonder if copper is the "magic bullet" for preventing corrosion?
 
I have the ripple element and after only 5 batches I replaced due to rust. I found a thread on HBT that had a suggestion of adding an anode to the kettle. Haven't had a problem since.

Your element condition is very impressive after 60 batches with no tare down. How long do you usually recirculate PBW for?

Typically about 20 minutes @ 140 degrees. Then a hot water rinse for another 20.

The tube and element are both copper. I think the pH of the mash help keep every thing clean and bright.
 
Here's a thread that I posted a while back. It has a link to some pictures of the system.
I need to update the pictures. I have made some changes over the years.

edit: Added later pictures with modifications to my rims panel for electric kettles and misc. systems shots.

Also a direct link to the pictures below.

When I'm not brewing, the kettles and MLT tear down and get stored on hooks from the ceiling so I can use the counter space for other uses.

I have found that hose barb fittings and hose clamps make a cheap, reliable quick connect system with my system. Even the 1/2" copper line works well with 5/8" ID reinforced vinyl hose and hose clamps.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-system-45665/

http://s200.photobucket.com/user/pr...6a-4a0c-807a-b2720f985350.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0


The links to the photos are down, do you have a working one?

What is the fitting at the input? Did you drill a hole and solder in that smaller tube?
 
Not sure when the link quit working?
I can try to find the original pictures.

The fitting you asked about is actually the outlet.
I made that fitting of three separate pieces.

1) 1" threaded collar cut off a brass bushing
2) 1 1/4" Copper cap with the closed end drilled out.
3) 1/2" copper fittings fit into the side of the copper cap



Everything is sweated together. A lot of labor, but I had most of the materials on hand, so that's what I went with.
The system is still working as it was originally built, although I added the BrewHardware stainless cover to the RIMS tube last year.
 
It was "not found" at one point but it's working now.

I see you orient your system a little different from what's typical, so that threw me off.

Is sweating those parts those parts together like that and getting a water tight seal something easy enough for an amateur like me to pull off?

Good work btw, yours is purdy.
 
It was "not found" at one point but it's working now.

I see you orient your system a little different from what's typical, so that threw me off.

Is sweating those parts those parts together like that and getting a water tight seal something easy enough for an amateur like me to pull off?

Good work btw, yours is purdy.

Probably the main difference with my system layout is that all the vessels are stowed away when I am not brewing.

I really need my countertop and work bench space for other activities, so it's not a fixed brewing sculpture like you often see. The only thing that is permanently mounted is the pump and RIMS heater and control panel. When I am not brewing, the big stuff all gets hung on big hooks in the ceiling joists.

It takes some practice to sweat copper pipe, but unlike welding, when soldering copper, you get do-overs if you are not happy with the results.

Having said that, a rims tube made of threaded pipe fittings is hard to beat for ease of assembly.
 
I have no problem soldering fittings, rigging up custom fittings and making it look good I'm not so sure about. Screwing together some pipes would be simpler, and after some price checking, cheaper too.
 
I wanted to add one of Bobby's stainless steel element enclosures to my RIMS tube so I disassembled it after 5 years of continuous use.

It has had probably 60 batches through the tube, and have never had it apart.
Aside from some corrosion on the element threads, I was surprised how clean the tube and the rest of element were.

I clean in place by circulating PBW solution through the pump and RIMS after finished brewing.

This is a 4500 watt 240 volt element running on 120 volts with a PID controlling temperatures.

Is that a copper housing? Looks very nice. I am building something similar and am now struggling with re-threading a 1" FPT adaptor to fit the 1" NPS heater thread.
 
Is that a copper housing? Looks very nice. I am building something similar and am now struggling with re-threading a 1" FPT adaptor to fit the 1" NPS heater thread.

Yes, the housing is all copper pipe fitting. I had to do a little thread adaptation when I built mime as well. Being copper and softer than steel, it was easier to open up the 1" threads on the bushing.
 
Do you still not clean it between brews? I was skimming through the RIMS for dummies thread and they warned that a strange film developes on the inside of the tube, making easy disassembly for frequent cleaning a must. What are your thoughts? Would the difference between all copper or SS have something to do with it?
 
Do you still not clean it between brews? I was skimming through the RIMS for dummies thread and they warned that a strange film developes on the inside of the tube, making easy disassembly for frequent cleaning a must. What are your thoughts? Would the difference between all copper or SS have something to do with it?

I do clean between every brew, but I do not disassemble to do the cleaning.

Instead, I clean-in-place by circulating PBW cleaning solution and then hot rinse water through the RIMS tube, pump, and all associated plumbing.

When I do occasionally disassemble the system, I have not noted any film or other issues with buildup, so my clean-in-place process seems to be working.
 
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