Here are a few pics of my electric brewing setup.
The HLT/BK:
It is an aluminum turkey fryer fitted with a 3800 Watt, 240VAC heating element. I use it to both heat the mash water and boil wort. It takes about twenty minutes to raise 6.5 gallons of 72-degree water to 164-degrees and about another 20 minutes to raise 6.5 gallons of 164-degree wort to boiling.
The Connections:
A three-wire cord is connected to the element and ground.
The thermocouple connection:
Using a compression fitting and a J-type thermocouple.
Looking down into the pot:
I mounted the thermocouple slightly below the element. I believe this was a mistake on my part. In order to get temp readings real-time I have to stir the pot for the controller to read properly (it's usually about ten degrees off until near-boil temps due to the circulation of water). However, when I set my temp on the controller and drain the water into the mash tun all is well.
The pot boiling:
The insides of the control box:
You may notice something missing - the recommended SSR.
I am using a 30 Amp relay and the system draws about 18 Amps. So, I can deal with the clunking sound. After about a dozen uses the relay is still in great shape.
The controller is a REXC-100 which was given to me by my father after extracting it from one of the rubber molding presses from his company.
I am very happy with the system so far. It is great because I can place the pot on a counter-top with just a towel underneath to keep from scorching the counter surface. In addition, it has reduced wait times for liquids to heat up, propane tank refill costs, carrying hot liquids around (in the winter) and has just overall made brewing so much more relaxing.
The HLT/BK:
It is an aluminum turkey fryer fitted with a 3800 Watt, 240VAC heating element. I use it to both heat the mash water and boil wort. It takes about twenty minutes to raise 6.5 gallons of 72-degree water to 164-degrees and about another 20 minutes to raise 6.5 gallons of 164-degree wort to boiling.
The Connections:
A three-wire cord is connected to the element and ground.
The thermocouple connection:
Using a compression fitting and a J-type thermocouple.
Looking down into the pot:
I mounted the thermocouple slightly below the element. I believe this was a mistake on my part. In order to get temp readings real-time I have to stir the pot for the controller to read properly (it's usually about ten degrees off until near-boil temps due to the circulation of water). However, when I set my temp on the controller and drain the water into the mash tun all is well.
The pot boiling:
The insides of the control box:
You may notice something missing - the recommended SSR.
I am using a 30 Amp relay and the system draws about 18 Amps. So, I can deal with the clunking sound. After about a dozen uses the relay is still in great shape.
The controller is a REXC-100 which was given to me by my father after extracting it from one of the rubber molding presses from his company.
I am very happy with the system so far. It is great because I can place the pot on a counter-top with just a towel underneath to keep from scorching the counter surface. In addition, it has reduced wait times for liquids to heat up, propane tank refill costs, carrying hot liquids around (in the winter) and has just overall made brewing so much more relaxing.