question about how to get beer clear

Hi,

Im about to make another batch of beer and the last two times i've done it i've expierenced the same problem (even though its not really a problem), when i am ready to bottle the beer (like 4-6 weeks after i start) the beer is still cloudy in the carboy. I would like to get it nice and clear before i do it so i dont leave any sediment in the bottles. Is there a way to clear it up or anything i can do? I really could use help with this. Thanks

Well there's finings like Irish moss added the last 15 minutes of the boil. Polyclar (sp.?) I think is added to the secondary? And then there's crashing. This is done by dropping the temp down to 33°F for a couple-three weeks prior to bottling.

Good luck,
Wild

I recently started a thread along these lines. You should find some good stuff here.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=3866&page=1&pp=10

Also, I was warned against Polyclar by my brewstore guys. They said it tends to strip away some of your hop profile, and something else I have forgotten.

What about gelatin finings? I've heard if you didn't use too much they'd leave your hops alone.

Umm, transfer to a secondary fermenter? Leave all of the sediment that you can in the primary, while siphoning to the secondary. Or siphon to a bucket/pot, then clean out your only fermenter, and put the beer back in? Try not to aeriate any... This sure helped my clarity.

ptpeter said:

I would like to get it nice and clear before i do it so i dont leave any sediment in the bottles. Is there a way to clear it up or anything i can do? I really could use help with this. Thanks

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If you're BOTTLING beer, you'll always have sediment at the bottom--it's the yeast that's become inactive after carbonating your beer in the bottles. If you want to cut down on chill haze, utilize a full-wort boil (if you have the facilities) as it will help with the hot break, protein coagulation, etc. Whirlfloc tabs (concentrated Irish Moss kicked up with refined carragean [sp?]) during the last 10 minutes of boiling will also help decrease extra sediment and "suspension" in your beer. Hope this helps.

BREW ON!

Work on your sanitation and yeast. Clean Beer that has been fermented at the proper temperature usally will settle and clear after four weeks. Bottle and drink it like it is and work on making the next one better.

If you aren't using a secondary, start using one. That's the best way to get beer to clear in my experience. Also, make sure your wort is cool before you add it to the primary, and leave as much crud as you can behind in the brew pot.

I no longer use any finings, and my beers are lovely and clear when I bottle them. They all suffer from chill haze, but that doesn't bother me overly much...

does anyone use a strainer when transfering from the boiling pot to the primary? would that eliminate crud?

I use a nylon net on my primary bucket when I pour my wort in. Then I sparge anything that's in there with 1 gal water.

so one of the 5 gallons you put in your primary you rinse over the leftovers in the nylon net?

Precisely! (But I usually top off my batches to 5.25-5.5 gals)

Be A Man Drink It Cloudy!!!

usmcruz said:

Be A Man Drink It Cloudy!!!

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Even if you drink it cloudy, it still comes out clear.

ajf said:

Even if you drink it cloudy, it still comes out clear.

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...in a perfect world, yes!

ptpeter said:

does anyone use a strainer when transfering from the boiling pot to the primary? would that eliminate crud?

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I used paper grease filters on my last batch. 10 of them, but I make a rye beer and that may make lots of...starch? Anyhow, it was clear and bottled in a week. Not nearly as filling as previous attempts. ("That's not beer- that's Dinner", one of my 'customers') Next time, I'll boil the rye before mashing....I'm trying, I'm learning, I'm drinking my mistakers

casebrew said:

I'm trying, I'm learning, I'm drinking my mistakers

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You da man!