Boiling how long is too long

I made an IIPA last weekend and messed up my water measurements. This of course caused a domino effect on SG and other things.

My solution was to boil it down to the correct volume and then start my hop schedule. This all seemed to go well except I boiled for a total of 180 minutes.

What kind of effect is this going to have on my final product? Should I save my dry hops for another batch or plow forward with this 180 minute beast?

If you only boiled your hops for the desired amount of time then I think it will be fine. Can we get some more details about the beer? OG, style, hop addition times, etc

I don't think it's a big deal. It may turn out a bit darker, though. I believe boiling wort results in Maillard reactions-- the caramelization of sugars in the wort.

A 3 hour boil?

Are you sure your volumes are correct? Are you getting a vigorous boil? Either way, their will be no real side effects other than stated so far.

This is an imperial ipa mid to high stats for the style. Pre boil gravity was way off. Post boil I was a little short of my mark. But in hindsight this should have been expected given the extra 2 gallons of wort I had to boil off.

I use a burner now and was outside on a very dry 12 degree day. It was a very vigorous boil. Boiled off fast but still had an extra 1.5 hours of boiling.

I did make sure I stuck to the proper hop schedule. I was going for 90 ibu and had 7 total additions of .75 oz each time. They were 90, 30, 20, 15, 10, 5, and 1. It smells great. Even made my sanitizer smell like it was hopped.

Thanks for the replies it sounds positive. I am thinking it may take some extra time in the bottle but that's ok.

I believe that the main thing you want to achieve is #1 a hot break, #2 a boil down to the appropriate volume necesary for fermentation. With this you should be hopefully be in the appropriate OG.

I wouldnt sweat it. If it isnt great.... hold it until the hot summer and drink on a hot day. If Bud can taste good on a hot day then you should be fine.

Boiling how long is too long

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Once the water is all gone, and you're left with homemade gelatinous DME, you've boiled too long! :fro:

I think you might see a slightly higher FG from some additional cross-linking of sugars/proteins etc. Otherwise not a big deal. I just made an IIPA and boiled it 2hr for the same reason you did, to get the right volume to hit my intended OG. I boiled my bittering hops the whole time too, figured more bitterness in an IIPA isn't a flaw.

I think I just read that after a couple of hours the isomerized alpha acids can start to break down. I rather doubt you'll notice anything though.

Reason #345 to use brewing software.

scottatdrake said:

I don't think it's a big deal. It may turn out a bit darker, though. I believe boiling wort results in Maillard reactions-- the caramelization of sugars in the wort.

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Maillard reactions are different than caramelization. This is an interesting read on the subject (not specifically brewing related, but food related):

http://www.dartagnan.com/t54/60323/a3637/Food-How--Tos--Guides/Page-1.html

The OP would have experienced some Maillard reactions from his extended boil, but likely wouldn't have seen much caramelization. From what I understand Maillard reactions in beer effect color more than flavor, while caramelization can effect both.

Actually your article states that Maillard reactions don't take place below 250F. I think you can get some cross-linking reactions at lower temps though. Obviously theres something causing the color change and the effect on FG suggests it involves sugars.

wildwest450 said:

Reason #345 to use brewing software.

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Yea even Beersmith will make the wrong calculations if you select the wrong equipment and don't notice until your kettle is full and you still have 1.5 gallons or wort remaining.

Well I can confirm the extra long boil had no negative impact on the flavor of the beer. It has all mellowed out and taste great.

That long of a boil did have a major impact on color but its still quite nice, turned the beer a very dark amber color.

I over sparged a time or two before using software, the best solution I came up with was to boil as normal in your kettle and boil down the extra wort in another pot. Add back the concentrate to the main kettle, or to fermenter if it took longer than the boil, before pitching yeast obviously.

Lennie said:

Actually your article states that Maillard reactions don't take place below 250F. I think you can get some cross-linking reactions at lower temps though. Obviously theres something causing the color change and the effect on FG suggests it involves sugars.

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I think the 250 there references where they start happening at a pretty rapid rate. i.e. things like bread toasting.

I've always hear that its Mallaird that's going on in the boil, and that maillards are also what's responsible for LME browning over time. But I'm no chemist, so who knows. Honestly, as long as I end up with good beer, that's all that matters.