Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

Quaffer said:

The 10 gallon cooler has smaller surface area to volume ratio so it should perform better than the 5 gallon one.

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This is true but for a given volume up wort, you would be better off with the a smaller cooler, the greatest heat loss is going to be at the area of the valve, the bottom of the cooler and the top. By going with a larger tun you will be increasing the 2 of 3 areas of greatest loss. This assumes the 10gal is of greater circumference. Also, the headspace has just been increased. Honestly I don't know if you will see much of a difference.

FWIW, I see about a 1 to 1.5 degree drop with mine, with about .5 degree variance with stirring, this is at about 65 degrees ambient.

Just adding a comment to keep this easy to get too.

BTW my LHBS has these pre-built for $120 with Blichmann parts.

camus said:

This is true but for a given volume up wort, you would be better off with the a smaller cooler, the greatest heat loss is going to be at the area of the valve, the bottom of the cooler and the top. By going with a larger tun you will be increasing the 2 of 3 areas of greatest loss. This assumes the 10gal is of greater circumference. Also, the headspace has just been increased. Honestly I don't know if you will see much of a difference.

FWIW, I see about a 1 to 1.5 degree drop with mine, with about .5 degree variance with stirring, this is at about 65 degrees ambient.

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It is best to use the smallest mash tun that will hold the mash, agreed 100%. Use the 10 gallon tun only for 10 gallon batches.

I guess the lid will be the area of greatest heat loss, being large and not insulated. Some inject it with foam to improve it, but I have not. That might shave a degree off my heat loss.

I made this design and it's been a ****ing nightmare. First, my SS braid collapsed immediately on the first batch I brewed with it. I lost a few gravity points but otherwise still managed to drain most of the wort.

So before my batch today, I bought a new SS braid, removed the nylon tube, put a bunch of holes in it, and reinserted it. I could barely get the wort to flow. So I dumped my mash into a pot, took the tun apart, enlarged the holes in the nylon tube, and reinserted it and put everything back together. This time I could get a trickle of wort, which stops after 30 seconds.

Basically, the SS braid collapses around the barbed connection. The barb will not fit inside the nylon tube.

How the hell did anyone ever get this to work just using a braid?

P.S. My braid is SS. 16x1/2'' OD. 3/8''ID.

What's the diameter and length of your braid?

Quaffer said:

It is best to use the smallest mash tun that will hold the mash, agreed 100%. Use the 10 gallon tun only for 10 gallon batches.

I guess the lid will be the area of greatest heat loss, being large and not insulated. Some inject it with foam to improve it, but I have not. That might shave a degree off my heat loss.

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I feel compelled to follow up, I just did a 1.5 qt/lb mash and lost heat gangbusters. Previously I had been doing 1.25 max, anyway I lost about 4 degrees over 90, just FYI.

Never had a problem with regards to off flavors from the igloo's. Im sure if anyone had problems, they would have been addressed a long time ago, especially with the large number of home brewers who rely on coolers for mash tuns.

Here are a few modifications i remember reading about on thi thread and similar ones (buried somewhere in the 153 pgs and counting):
- always preheat the cooler (i use simmering/near boiling water).
- The lid is hollow. Fill it with spray insulation foam.
- cover/wrap cooler with blanket/towels.
- use an electric water heating element to maintain temps in the mash.

I have had much success with filling the lid with foam and preheating. I usually only see a 2-3 degree temp drop during a 60min mash.

Another good tip i read:
If you are doing mini mash, or have smaller grain bills, go ahead and cut a layer of foam insulation measured to the diameter of the cooler (or dimensions of the 10gal cooler), and rest it just above the grain bed, thereby reducing the empty space.

The only stainless steel supply hose I was able to find was a 3/8ths x 1/2in FIP 12" hose. I want to make sure if this will work or not before I go ahead and cut it.

@rexbanner: I am building this and having my own challenges, but to address your collapsing braid i read a post where a person used copper wire 10-12 gauge and coiled it. Then elongated the coil and inserted in the braid. That may stop the braid from collapsing. I also just read on another DYI post where a person used a SS spring and inserted into the braid. Finally after reading your post I might just buy a false bottom.

dropitlikesitshot said:

@rexbanner: I am building this and having my own challenges, but to address your collapsing braid i read a post where a person used copper wire 10-12 gauge and coiled it. Then elongated the coil and inserted in the braid. That may stop the braid from collapsing. I also just read on another DYI post where a person used a SS spring and inserted into the braid. Finally after reading your post I might just buy a false bottom.

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I would just go with a false bottom. I'm about to order one.

rexbanner said:

I would just go with a false bottom. I'm about to order one.

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Same here, I made a braid and then after the first ag batch I wanted to throw the whole thing in the woods. I bought a false bottom. Life is much easier!

Built this on Saturday then took it apart. The process is easy enough, but (and I'm sure this is common knowledge) Home Depot-branded items are cheaper knock-offs of original products, so the Home Depot-branded Rubbermaid 10 gal is about 1/16" thinner than a real Rubbermaid cooler, and the lid is much thinner. It's the same reason to never buy tools there, as you'll get some cheap, made in China garbage.

Also wish I had known about the $20 stainless bulkheads you can buy at pretty much any brewing supply.

Would anyone recommend using or not using a cpvc manifold as opposed to a copper manifold/ss braid/false bottom.
Seems the easiest/cheapest route if I don't want to waste my time with a braid.

I converted a cooler about 2 years ago and use a cpcv manifold. It works great, is easy to put together and take apart to clean, and its cheap. Highly recommend.

Sheldon

Building a cpvc manifold. in the process of cutting the slits in the bottom. slow process even with a Dremel tool and a cutting disk. Can't wait to test it out in a week or two.

1 more BIAB on deck then back to more traditional mashing & fly sparging for a few batches to compare efficiency between new CPVC manifold & BIAB (as well as some slightly bigger beers)

Dan- said:

Built this on Saturday then took it apart. The process is easy enough, but (and I'm sure this is common knowledge) Home Depot-branded items are cheaper knock-offs of original products, so the Home Depot-branded Rubbermaid 10 gal is about 1/16" thinner than a real Rubbermaid cooler, and the lid is much thinner. It's the same reason to never buy tools there, as you'll get some cheap, made in China garbage.

Also wish I had known about the $20 stainless bulkheads you can buy at pretty much any brewing supply.

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Damn, I wish I had known about this. Perhaps I should have known it was too good to be true when I picked up my HD 10g Rubbermaid for $39.95 IIRC. Sure enough, I have trouble fitting a false bottom in it because its inside diameter is about 3/8" less than typical.

Holy hell, I just read 154 pgs of this thread. First of all thank you FlyGuy once again. I picked up a Rubbermaid from Depot with a gift card and only had to pay 31¢ afterwards. My brother in law is a plumber and said he'd get me all the parts so I can put it together for free.

I just had a few questions:
I cant seem to find the SS washers, anyone know where I can get them?
Should I get a 5 gallon or 10 gallon rubbermaid?
Can I do 10 gallon batches with this?
Do I need a rubber o ring?
Can I use a zinc washer?
Can I use a different cooler?
Are SS clamps safe?
Do I need a rubber tube?

Seriously, though. To everyone who contributed to this thread, thank you.

And a special thanks to everyone who didn't have time to read thru the thread and had to ask the same question even though it was asked and answered 5+ dozen times, thank you for making the thread 154 pages.

I cant seem to find the SS washers, anyone know where I can get them?

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I bet Fastenall has them.

5449 N 51st Ave # 104
Glendale, AZ 85301-7007
(623) 930-0184

You should get the 10 gallon one or you are going to end up doing this project twice.

Start with 5 gallon batches, get your feet wet and then step it up.

I would go with the rubber o-ring. They are cheap.

Sure you can use a different cooler but that is the suggested one. Provides a good deep grain bed.

Make sure they are ALL SS. Some people use zip ties. I use a Copper Manifold.

No on the rubber hose.

Is it alright if I have teflon tape exposed inside the cooler (aka touching my hot wort aka touching my precious beer)?

zinc for the outside, stainless on the inside. I use zip ties and a few inch piece of high temp hose to attach to stainless nipple & a plastic 1/2 inch to half inch plastic connector off CPVC..

PaulTheGhost said:

Is it alright if I have teflon tape exposed inside the cooler (aka touching my hot wort aka touching my precious beer)?

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I wouldn't put any on the inside. Are you afraid it is going to leak back into itself?

Acoma said:

I just had a few questions:
I cant seem to find the SS washers, anyone know where I can get them?
Should I get a 5 gallon or 10 gallon rubbermaid?
Can I do 10 gallon batches with this?
Do I need a rubber o ring?
Can I use a zinc washer?
Can I use a different cooler?
Are SS clamps safe?
Do I need a rubber tube?

Seriously, though. To everyone who contributed to this thread, thank you.

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To the above point, it might be good to have a FAQ at the beginning of this thread or summarize on teh wiki (if not already done so)

BendBrewer said:

I wouldn't put any on the inside. Are you afraid it is going to leak back into itself?

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No, I jerry rigged a 3/8 threaded brass coupling into a 1/2 copper T and used teflon tape to make sure it didn't leak at all.

I really didn't want to go back to the store to get a brass T that will fit my manifold arms and have one threaded output.

Oh well...

Is there anything I need to do to my cooler/cpvc/copper before I mash in it? (besides preheating)

You should probably drink a homebrew and christen it.

I picked up a 50-pack of 5/8" stainless washers as I was at the store for a few myself as well as another HBT member. If you can't find the washers locally, shoot me a PM. They go over the 3/8" nipple and fit in the depression on the outside of the cooler where the faucet sits.

im having trouble finding a stainless fender, will a galvanized one work also?

thanks everyone and i hope this isnt a dumb question...

The instructions are incorrect. It's really a 5/8" flat washer, not a 5/8" fender washer.

Dan- said:

The instructions are incorrect. It's really a 5/8" flat washer, not a 5/8" fender washer.

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+1 That's what they are at fastenal.

I just built my water cooler mash tun today. Here's what it cost me to buy nearly all of the equipment at Home Depot in $US:
- Rubbermaid 10 gallon round beverage cooler - $39.96
- all stainless steel ¼” hose clamps x 2 - $.85 each=$1.70
- brass square head plug (Watts A-737) - $1.93
- ½” x 12” (or larger) braided stainless steel supply hose - $4.27
- 3/8” female barb adapter (Watts A-298) - $2.98
- 5/8” stainless steel fender washer - purchased at another store - $.40
- 3/8” MIP x 1-1/2” brass nipple (Watts A-786) - $2.89
- seal from plastic spigot of cooler (shown below)
- Teflon tape (note: everything to the left of the tape in the picture above goes inside the cooler, and everything to the right goes outside) - $.98
- 5/8” O-ring (preferably heat resistant, if you can find one) -pack of 12 - $2.97
- 3 x 5/8” fender washers - $.33 each=$.99
- 3/8” threaded ball valve - $8.21
- 3/8” male barb adapter (Watts A-294) - $2.68
Subtotal = $76.60
Tax = $7.12
Total = $83.32

I was at my local HD Friday and asked for SS washers and heat resistant O ring and struck out on both. I know our Lowes doesn't carry SS washers either, nor does the local True Value. I found a fellow HBT'er who is sending me a few washers (reimbursement to follow of course).

Sheldon

Try the largest Ace Hardware you can find. The key is to find the place not completely taken over by a corporate chain with standard inventory.

Dan- said:

Try the largest Ace Hardware you can find. The key is to find the place not completely taken over by a corporate chain with standard inventory.

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I tried there as well along with a local True Value. I had to go to a construction supplier. They do home improvement as well as commercial. If they don't carry it, it probably doesn't exist.

That's where I got the washers and the o-rings.

I bought a bunch of washers if you need them. I'm selling them for what they cost me, $0.41/each plus actual shipping.

I rearranged the washers on my cooler and now have 2 on the inside between the barb and the original rubber seal, 2 o-rings on the outside of the bulkhead (one filled the opening around the nipple and the red outside wall of the cooler but was recessed a bit so I put a second one on so the washers would be up against that to create a seal when tightened down by the valve), 6 washers, the ball valve, and the barb.

The handle of the ball valve now has a free full range of motion. It didn't leak before, when it didn't "close" all the way, but I like that I don't have to have it resting against the cooler wall and with the extra washers, it really tightened up and doesn't flex.

I am trying to find the parts I would need for a 10 gallon IGLOO cooler that I have to convert it into a mash tun. I am a pretty stupid when it comes to this kind of stuff and don't want to waste a bunch of time and money buying the wrong stuff. Has anybody converted an igloo cooler and know exactly what they purchased for conversion?

Thanks,
Tim

I converted an igloo cooler, but I cheated and bought a bargainfittings bulkhead.

Thanks FlyGuy. I built mine today and it works marvelously! Had to visit my local Fastenal to get the stainless washer. Can't wait to get started brewing AG!

I built my 5 gallon MLT (bought the cooler online and could have sworn it said 10 gallon, but decided to keep the 5 gallon cuz it would be too much of a hassle to return it) the other day. No leaks and total cost right around $60 (I may have gotten the five finger discount on a few things at my local Home Gestapo).

Built a CPVC/copper manifold instead of a braid. Will be doing my first AG batch tomorrow and will update with pictures when I get home.

Thanks, FlyGuy! Without you I never would have been able to make the jump into AG as soon as I did. <3

PaulTheGhost said:

(I may have gotten the five finger discount on a few things at my local Home Gestapo).

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Seriously?

jtkratzer said:

Seriously?

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No, I was being sarcastic. :/
I don't think they'll miss a couple of nipples.