Keezer temp control hardwiring

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What do you need to know? I can sketch up a diagram quickly if I know what you are trying to wire.

Locating the STC1000 manual could be a good first step.
 
Thanks guys. I've wired one already to a receptacle so I'm confident in doing that again. I'm looking for how to wire it into the freezer's wiring so that I can plug the freezer in with the original plug and the thermostat be controlled by the stc.

Here are pics of the wiring.

20120905_180544.jpg


20120905_180600.jpg
 
Ok, long enough time for the joke.

You see the three wires going into the thermostat, right?

The black one is "hot" or "Live". The hot wire is almost always the color of insulation that looks most burnt.

That means that the other two wires are probably an earth - say the green one (you'll notice that it's bolted to the frame) - and the yellow one would then be the power lead to the compressor.

This diagram from a UK homebrew forum may help:

http://media.photobucket.com/image/recent/kev93_10/stc1000.png

The STC-1000 has no interest in the "Earth" lead because it's housing is plastic.

The white lead is the "Neutral" - you will need to tie into that to power the STC-1000.

Oh, and ALWAYS switch the hot lead. Never the neutral or earth.

(Note that i use the term "Earth" here because it is more clear than "Ground". A lot of electrics have "ground" voltages that are relative. "Earth" here means literally the earth. Dirt. Quite literally an 8 foot long copper-clad steel spike driven into the earth next to your house. At least, that's what the earth prong of your outlets SHOULD be tied to. It might be tied to the neutral from the pole.)
 
Thanks for the help. I got it wired up today and it's cooling down. It's was much simpler when I sat down and started to do everything hands on. I was making it too difficult in my head.
 
Yeah, it was that way for me too. Then i pulled the thermostat off the side of my freezer and realized that all i had to do was cut and strip the wires that were in front of me. Luckily there was a neon lamp next to the dial that provided me the neutral line to power the controller.

I just clipped four wires, stripped them, and inserted them into my controller.
 
Ok, long enough time for the joke.

You see the three wires going into the thermostat, right?

The black one is "hot" or "Live". The hot wire is almost always the color of insulation that looks most burnt.

That means that the other two wires are probably an earth - say the green one (you'll notice that it's bolted to the frame) - and the yellow one would then be the power lead to the compressor.

This diagram from a UK homebrew forum may help:

http://media.photobucket.com/image/recent/kev93_10/stc1000.png

The STC-1000 has no interest in the "Earth" lead because it's housing is plastic.

The white lead is the "Neutral" - you will need to tie into that to power the STC-1000.

Oh, and ALWAYS switch the hot lead. Never the neutral or earth.

(Note that i use the term "Earth" here because it is more clear than "Ground". A lot of electrics have "ground" voltages that are relative. "Earth" here means literally the earth. Dirt. Quite literally an 8 foot long copper-clad steel spike driven into the earth next to your house. At least, that's what the earth prong of your outlets SHOULD be tied to. It might be tied to the neutral from the pole.)

Smart man speaks the truth. The ground dilemma gets confusing when the supply has a "ground" and "earth".

Glad everything worked out EllisTX.
 
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