Munich Helles Dead Guy Clone (Extract & AG- see note)

Williams 728
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Yooper said:
I've done it a couple of times with the LME and DME, and I have substituted all DME once or twice. When I sub with DME, I adjust the amount to give me the same OG, so I would have used 7 pounds of DME.
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7 pounds of light DME or 7 pound of extra light DME?

thanks,
leo
 
I haven't brewed since the end of June, due to my female boxer being sick and had to put her to sleep Aug 29th. I have finally found time to dedicate to brewing. I have had my grains since the end of June, I'm still going to BIAB with them today. Amazing how much I have to remember so the brew goes well. Need to go get two bags of ice as my water temp is 82f from the "lead free" hose. Hope it all turns out.
 
well I brewed this last week and no joke it was a fast fermenter. I was down to about 1.012-4 5 days in. Tastes pretty good too. I let a couple of none brewers try it and even after 7 days they all thought it had a good flavor so i'm excited for it to get bottled and sent to my buddy for his anniversary.
 
Brewed some of this today and had some interesting results. I've been having some wildly varying boil off rates, so I went a little high on volume and ended up with almost 6 gallons in the bucket, which unfortunately left my SG at 1.058. Is smelled and looked great though, so hopefully it still tastes ok despite being a little diluted.
 
Yooper said:
I just realized that in the last recipe (AG) I did at home, I made some changes, and I think it made it better. Here it is:View attachment 4778
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This is my first time to brew with WLP041. Brewed a week and a day ago, and the blowoff valve is still bubbling about once every other second at 64* the whole time. This is a much more active yeast than my previous experiences... looking forward to trying the results.

Also blew off my airlock in my 7.5 gallon carboy. Haven't had a yeast do this before. Once it settles in (12 days on the recipe), I'll rack it to secondary and see how the gravity settles out. My OG was a little soft at 1.075 vs. 1.078 in the recipe, but that should be of negligible difference.
 
Quick question - the copy recipe says bottle age for 28 days at 52*. How important is this step? I'd prefer to have it maybe 21 days in the 62* - 72* range.
 
ZenFitness said:
Quick question - the copy recipe says bottle age for 28 days at 52*. How important is this step? I'd prefer to have it maybe 21 days in the 62* - 72* range.
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That's the temperature of my basement. If yours is different, that's fine. Beer ages faster at warmer temperatures, so you can definitely cut down some aging time with warmer temperatures.

I do like to age cooler, though, as it's got a real "lager-like" finish to this beer.
 
Mine has gotten a lot better as it aged in the bottle. Initially was a just oK. But now it's definitely close to Rogue! Thanks for the recipe
 
Yooper said:
That's the temperature of my basement. If yours is different, that's fine. Beer ages faster at warmer temperatures, so you can definitely cut down some aging time with warmer temperatures.

I do like to age cooler, though, as it's got a real "lager-like" finish to this beer.
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Thanks Yooper, and thanks for sharing the recipe. Easy to brew and I'm looking forward to the drink.
 
I Got a Q for the extract how do I do a grains an extract combo I don't want to do all extract I an not confident to do all grains yet could someone help me out
Thanks
 
Gingerpower12 said:
I Got a Q for the extract how do I do a grains an extract combo I don't want to do all extract I an not confident to do all grains yet could someone help me out
Thanks
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The recipe is on the first page:

1 pound Cara-Munich
1 pound Munich
1/2 pound crystal 40L

Steep grains in a bag at 155 degrees for 30 minutes. Sparge with 1/2 gallon 170 degree water. Allow grains to drip into pot, but don't squeeze. Discard grains. Bring to a boil and add:
4lbs Alexanders Pale LME
4LBS LDME
1 oz perle 60 mins
1/4 oz perle 30 minutes
1/4 oz perle 5 mins
1/4 oz saaz 5 mins.

If you want to use base malt, use US two-row in the amount of 1 pound per .6 pound of DME replaced. That's it!
 
I just racked this one after 12 days and my SG is 1.020. Is that typical for this beer? Most beers I do are usually around 1.012 - 1.014, so I want to be sure I'm not far off here. I'm doing the copy of the beer in the BSM file from the beginning of the thread... not the thread recipe.

Thanks Yooper!
 
ZenFitness said:
I just racked this one after 12 days and my SG is 1.020. Is that typical for this beer? Most beers I do are usually around 1.012 - 1.014, so I want to be sure I'm not far off here. I'm doing the copy of the beer in the BSM file from the beginning of the thread... not the thread recipe.

Thanks Yooper!
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Yes, I've had it stop at 1.020 more than once. It's fine there, though!
 
Thanks, and wow this beer tastes great when I just measured it!

I usually lose about another 4 - 5 points of gravity in a secondary on other beers, but I haven't used this yeast before. Do you usually lose a few more points on the second 12 days?
 
Sorry for the noob question but is the recipes in the op for a 5 gallon batch?
 
Does anyone have any speculation what the rogue dare and risk malts might be like?
The website lists two row ,c15, Munich and rogue farms dare and risk malts.
Also lists 16* Plato 40 IBU 78AA I'm assuming meaning apparent attenuation? And 16* lovibond.
Even with 3lb Munich (20*l) and a pound of carastan I'm only getting 12*lovibond.

Edit: 5.5g batch size
 
Brewmex41 said:
Does anyone have any speculation what the rogue dare and risk malts might be like?
The website lists two row ,c15, Munich and rogue farms dare and risk malts.
Also lists 16* Plato 40 IBU 78AA I'm assuming meaning apparent attenuation? And 16* lovibond.
Even with 3lb Munich (20*l) and a pound of carastan I'm only getting 12*lovibond.

Edit: 5.5g batch size
Click to expand...

Not really sure but I would guess like a Marris Otter or Golden Promise where it's basically a premium grain. Anyone have an old bottle laying around that has the old ingredients from before their GYO movement? I do know the Marris Otter is darker by a small degree than regular base malts. That may account for some color variation.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Home Brew mobile app
 
I just put 5 gallons of this in the fridge to cold crash for bottling this weekend. I took a sample and was greeted with some funky flavors and I'm wondering of anyone might have some suggestions on what's going on. It had been sitting in primary for 25 days until it went into the fridge. I had my wife taste the sample and her first response was that it had an apple cider vinegar smell/taste to it. Initially I just noticed an alcohol taste, but after she mentioned it, there was an appleish flavor.

I brewed this with my Dad and he had picked up the grain bill. His brew shop substituted "dark munich 20" for caramunich. I don't know what effect this would have on the overall flavor, I don't think it has anything to do with my off flavors, but thought I would mention it anyway. The brew day went smoothly, we pitched a 3 liter starter of PacMan and I fermented it mostly in the low 60s, but let it warm to mid-upper 60s after a couple weeks. It overattenuated to 1.013.

Not sure what other info might be helpful but I'm hoping for some ideas as to what happened. My plan is to bottle this weekend and then give it a good month in the bottles to let things mellow out some.
 
So, here is what happened with my attempt. This is the 2nd beer I have brewed, and when I was at my LHBS, the guy there made some comments about the recipe, gave me some advice and I took it.
Using the Extract recipe on the first page, here are the only changes.
Under advisement from my LHBS guy, I got
6 lbs of Alexander Pale Malt Extract
3 lbs of XLDME

Steeped in 2 gallon water, striking temp 163ish, steeping temp about 150. According to the LHBS's advice, I steeped for 45 mins. Sparged with 170 water.

The overall process wasn't all that smooth, I had to take bit wort out of the pot because they were overflowing. I did put some back later though.

All said and done, I had an OG of 1.082!!!

I propagated twice using 1L starter for 1 Pacman smack pack.

I tossed the yeast slurry in, and for some reason, I thought I was around 70F, but later the fermometer on the bucket said 78. I soaked the bucket in a tub full of cold water, and now it has finally dropped to 72. My ambient temp is about 66F. No activity as of yet, it has been about 3 hrs. I am considering of throwing some ice in the tub.

We will see how this turn out :)

When I saw the 1.082 OG, my jaw dropped. Thought it maybe the sludge interfering, I used a coffee filter and filtered bunch out, and it still said 1.082. I tasted it as well, very sweet, not all that bitter.

I am considering of tossing another pack of pac man yeast in it, to help with the high OG. Is that a good way of dealing with this situation? I have read high OG, you need lots of air and yeast.

I still don't understand how I got such high OG.
 
mouren said:
I am considering of tossing another pack of pac man yeast in it, to help with the high OG. Is that a good way of dealing with this situation? I have read high OG, you need lots of air and yeast.

I still don't understand how I got such high OG.
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You shouldn't need another yeast pack if you used a starter. I made this beer using the AG method and it blew the airlock off the next morning. I want to say my OG was in the low 70s. Multiple yeast packets/vials are necessary when you start getting over 1.090 - 1.100. If you made the starter and shook the carboy before pitching (or even just dumped it in), then you should be fine.

Three hours is nothing... it may take 24 hours for you to notice activity.

In terms of OG - I haven't compared what you did against the extract recipe, but the only way you would have a higher OG is if you used less water (i.e. smaller than 5 gallon batch) with the same recipe or added more sugar than what was called for.

I make 1.080 - 1.090 beers all the time and don't have any issues, but it may take a little more time for fermentation to kick in. The only thing you will want to consider is that the yeast may be too pooped to pop at bottling time, so be sure you either have the right sugar or consider adding some very mild yeast at that point.
 
ultravista said:
What is another acceptable liquid yeast for Dead Guy - an alternate for Pacman?
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I used WLP041. It blew the airlock off, so I set up a blowoff tube, and it was exploding bubbles like no other beer I've ever brewed.

The results turned out great, FWIW.
 
Pick up a 6er of dead guy. It should have pacman for ya Haha
I'm going to make a starter for my pacman smack pack in the morning. I always make a starter that's bigger than I need so I can save some slurry for a future brew. It's better than washing yeast afterwards.
 
I love it. I cold crash my beers as if they were lagers anyways.
But that's why we are homebrewers, to brew to our own tastes.
 
Just an update to my attempt at the Extract Recipe,
after OG of 1.082 or 1.084 after temperature correction, 2 weeks later, it's now 1.021 in the primary.

Should I rack it to secondary or let it sit in primary some mo or just bottle it?


Thoughts?

I drank the hydrometer sample, it's quite drinkable, doesn't feel that much heat. Not quite Dead Guy, but similar. It lacks the depth of Dead Guy.
 
mouren said:
Just an update to my attempt at the Extract Recipe,
after OG of 1.082 or 1.084 after temperature correction, 2 weeks later, it's now 1.021 in the primary.

Should I rack it to secondary or let it sit in primary some mo or just bottle it?


Thoughts?

I drank the hydrometer sample, it's quite drinkable, doesn't feel that much heat. Not quite Dead Guy, but similar. It lacks the depth of Dead Guy.
Click to expand...

I'd bottle if the Sg is unchanging over at least three days. It will be "fuller" when carbed up.
 
I think mine was around 1.020 and was delicious after a little bit of bottle conditioning.
 
If you are targeting 1.018 and hit 1.021, I would call it a win and bottle it. Also, this beer should improve with bottle conditioning for a short time (1-3 months depending on your conditions and taste preferences).

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Home Brew mobile app
 
After brewing wheat beers & smash ales all summer, I think this will be my first brew of the Fall season! Dead Guy is a great ale, and if this recipe is as good as I've been reading (I've got no reason to believe it isn't), it should be a winner! If I don't screw it up, that is! ;)
 
I brewed this today and missed my OG, 1.056 per refractometer as opposed to the 1.069 in the recipe. Preboil was a little low too. The crush looked a little larger than what I'm used to seeing from my LHBS so someone may have fiddled with the mill. I wasn't going to double-mill it as the last time I did that I got some flak. My next upgrade is going to be a grain mill for sure. The wort that came from the grist though is beautiful! Pitched in a 1.6 liter starter of WLP011 and had airlock activity within 3 hours. That was the only yeast of my LHBS had of the ones recommended. It probably won't be the bellywarmer I was hoping for but I'm sure it'll taste great!
 

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