jrb03,
I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.
I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.
I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.
I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)
I hope this is of some help to you.
As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")
Wishing you the best.
P-J
Got the first brew session in. Temps hold steady and it can move to mashout or boil expediently with 3 gallon batches. I managed 79% brew house efficiency on a 1.049 Citra Blonde ale. I think a 90 min boil would put my kit into the low 80's.
View attachment 74309
Also is anyone running the original 1 element diagram. i dont like the idea of running 2 separate cords from 2 different circuits.
Keith,PJ,
I have a question about the following diagram:
You are showing the Element switch actuating a contactor. I fully understand the use of the contactor in the 220V versions: many do not wish to touch a switch carrying 220V directly with "possibly" wet fingers - although there are some control panels such as jsguitar's where 220V switches are used.
1. Are you doing this in order to make it easier to convert this controller to 220V later should the brewer desire? I "think" that possibility was mentioned later in the thread.
2. Are you using the contactor because of the amount of amps (as opposed to volts) that would be traveling thru the element circuit?
I'm really interested in this design as well. It makes me think that there might be some virtue in converting my 7.5 gallon kettle into a small e-kettle for making 2.5 - 3 gallon batches.
Thanks,
Keith
Keith,
The design was implemented the way it is because jrb03 wanted a specific design using Auber Instruments illuminated push button switches (first post - this thread).
The particular switch (Model: SW1) is rated for 10A. This means that any element running on 120V at 1200W (or more) cannot be directly controlled with the PB switch. The contactor then becomes an easy solution. A huge side benefit is that the controller can be easilt converted to a 240V system with very simple wiring changes. The switch also functions well on either 120 or 240V including the switch illumination. <snip<
I hope this makes sense.
P-J
jrb03,
I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.
I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.
I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.
I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)
I hope this is of some help to you.
As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")
Wishing you the best.
P-J
Does the pump only recirculate when the element is on?
During recirculation is the element on or off? Just trying to get a idea.
I recirc the entire mash. The unit has an on/off for the element tho
So the pump is just turned on via the LED switch on the control box, right? I have a buddy that actually builds control boxes for a living, and I think I might have him help me out with this project. Gotta get some funds together for it though!
Yes. The pump is turned on with an LED switch. The other 2 switches power on/off the PID and heating element.
You can sorta think of the PID as a dimmer and the contactor as a light switch - doesn't matter what you do with the dimmer lever if the light switch is turned off....
It's a way for you to be sure all power to the kettle/element is off.
I've been adding up everything... Looks like about $225 at Auberins, over $200 at Bargain Fittings, plus a new kettle, pump and element... Not cheap, but I am hoping to build my setup very similar to this over the next few months. Thanks for all the info in here. The only thing I am worried about is understanding the PID instructions
P-J said:jrb03,
I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.
I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.
I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.
I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)
I hope this is of some help to you.
As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")
http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a4-2000w-BIAB-120V-D.jpg
Wishing you the best.
P-J
captain_brew said:I've ordered nearly everything I need to complete this build. But I want to make my control box more modular.
I'd like to use a computer power cord to hook up the box to the wall. Seems easy enough.
And then, I'd like to plug my element and pump into the box as well.
If I'm not mistaken, my temp probe has an inline disconnect that I can attach/detach from the box.
Does any of this make sense? I'm going to see how far I can get into the wiring process, supplies are in the mail, I'm going to have a friend confirm my results before powering on. I'd just like to get some great help from you folks!
I'm open to suggestions or changes too!
Thanks.
*Edit, I guess the computer cord "inlet" i'm thinking of would be properly called a receptacle? Plug, Connector, Receptacle.
I am planning on making a panel just like this except I will be using a 3000w 120v element, on a 30amp breaker. Would anything need to be changed in P-J's diagram or would it work out to be the same?
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