Anyone ever built one? I'm going crazy trying to find a swivel fitting that will allow for the arm to rotate.
Am I overthinking this or something?
Am I overthinking this or something?
What about pumping the wort through a cheap Nazi lawn sprinkler?
You might be over thinking it as most swivel fittings are designed to hold pressure and you dont really care if it drips a little.
I've played around with a rotating sparge arm made of copper pipe with a very loose sealing connection of one copper pipe inside another and its more that adequate. The issue I had was my lack of a pump, gravity feed is inadequate to make the thing rotate even with a very loose fitting.
it's an option... i'm not totally sold on anything at this point. i just need to get someTHING set up. as of right now, i just take a freakin' tin serving tray, pop a ton of holes in it and let it sit on top of my grain bed. i have a HERMS system and circ my MT continuously so the wort comes through the lid on my MT, hits the pan and is dispursed. it's the ONE freakin' piece on my rig i haven't built yet.
I'm not too worried about losing heat since it is all contained. The sparge arm would be just under the lid of my MT and the lines are insulated so... again... not too worried about losing heat.
an offer? I'll.... give... you... FOUR, BRAND NEW... CRISP... One dollar bills. ehhh?? nice huh?
Just use a cheap showerhead and fitting to suspend it above the grainbed. With a little adjustment you can reach all corners of your MLT and maintain a nice uniform flow.
It's not worth the effort. See post #13. That's how the Sabco Brew Magic does it. You are flysparging so you need an inch or two above the grainbed, why would a manifold help in that case?
I think you misunderstood me, I meant just use a showerhead to distribute the water INSTEAD of a manifold or other huge honking contraption with lots of tiny sparge hole or slits. The showerhead will easily spray to all corners of the MLT.
I think you misunderstood SawDustGuy
The current line of thinking is that if you have an inch of water covering the grain, there is no need to distribute the sparge water across the MLT...just add the sparge water to the surface and it will distribute it's self. So a hose is all you need, no sparge head, sprinkler, or whirly thingamabob (I have most of those, but just use a hose now)
Ed
I see. Well I've been just using a 1 gal pitcher with an upside down plate to eliminate channeling. Now that I know it's that easy I may as well buy a march pump and upgrade my MLT to a RIMS system. Here I have been stressing about how best to distribute the RIMS liquid when I can just let it flow right back on top with enough water-level above the grainbed.
I Made one using this link
http://www.bohack.com/2010/10/how-to-make-a-rotating-fly-sparge-arm-for-all-grain-brewing/
It was a pain in the you know I got it spining smooth dry and polished up everthing nice. When I used it on a couple batches of beer it kept sticking and being hard to use. I have since made a spiral arm out of copper and loved it twice. I just bought a 10 ft section of 1/4 in copper and a small tapping drill bit (1.02 mm) and made a coil. Molded by hand and drilled.. drill holes farther apart at begining of the coil than at end.
Boom, git r dun
1/2" ID Loc Line at www.mcmastercarr.com
Cheap, simple... works like a charm for fly sparging. You dont need to sprinkle the water, that isnt necessary
can you elaborate on the spiral i am planning on making an arm for my brew this weekend and this has peaked my interest.
I looked at all these options and finally pulled the trigger on a spray ball from Mcmaster Carr. Two things to note, this is great for a sparge with the march pumps we typically use and it's great for CIP cleaning.
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Kyled93 said:I bought the high temp plastic one for 50$ or so... It's temperature rated for 190 I want to say. I can honestly say I don't know when I would ever have liquid that high go through the spray ball. It worked great for a sparge.
I had a small piece of 3"x20"x1/2 popple that I drilled a hole in and then polyurethaned it for drips. I then bent soft copper tubing 1/4 in 10 ft long into the shape below. (bought at local home improvement store) I then drilled with a 1mm drill bit. I did too many holes the first time so I pluged some with epoxy. ( going to plug a few more than what is in pics) What holds the arm in the wood is rubber o rings tight to the tubing. One on the bottom and two on top. The tubing I had was too big for the copper so I just clamped down with a stainless hose clamp. To stop up the end I just pinched it with pilars and folded over.
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