Can I splice into my dryer line?

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jwb96

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My brewing space is at the far end of the basement from the electrical panel, but only a few feet from where the supply for the dryer runs upstairs. So conceptually I am imagining some sort of junction box with a switch that would route power to either the dryer or the spa panel (so my wife doesn't start the dryer when I'm brewing and trip the circuit breaker). FYI: the house is new so all current wiring is up to code and modern.

Is this even remotely possible? If so, what sort of components and approach are we talking about?

TIA,
Jim
 
If you're wanting the 220V off of the dryer - and it is close by - why not just buy a dryer plug/pigtail cable and just use the existing outlet for everything. This would also solve your problem of running everything at once and keep down on the tinkering with a working electrical line.
 
If you're wanting the 220V off of the dryer - and it is close by - why not just buy a dryer plug/pigtail cable and just use the existing outlet for everything. This would also solve your problem of running everything at once and keep down on the tinkering with a working electrical line.

The dryer is upstairs and the brewery is in the basement, so there'd be drilling and wire running regardless. Wish it was that easy.
 
How far is the run if you were to add a new circuit for the basement off of the main breaker panel? I would be inclined to run a dedicated circuit. In my current build, I have to run a 60a line out to my garage. A friend of mine recommended piggybacking two 10 gauge wires instead of springing for 6 gauge thhn stating that it would be fine. I politely said no thanks and opted to go for the more expensive but correct method. The last thing that I want is for my house to catch on fire and the insurance company to pass it off on a cheap wiring job. That being said, I don't know enough about the electric code to know if it allows for a switched 220a outlet but you can not go wrong by running a dedicated circuit. Also, you won't have to fight with SWMBO when she needs to do laundry and you want to brew.
 
How far is the run if you were to add a new circuit for the basement off of the main breaker panel?

Probably 60+ feet of wire would be needed. I'll keep it to 30-40 amps with a set-up that only uses one element at a time. Just hoping to find a safe but less-expensive and less-trouble solution (avoiding pulling down all the insulation in the basement ceiling to run a wire, etc.).
 
Probably 60+ feet of wire would be needed. I'll keep it to 30-40 amps with a set-up that only uses one element at a time. Just hoping to find a safe but less-expensive and less-trouble solution (avoiding pulling down all the insulation in the basement ceiling to run a wire, etc.).
Do the wire run in conduit. It is fairly cheap that way and then can be surface mounted in your basement.
 
No question that the 'right' way to do this would be to run a separate, 4 wire circuit from the panel (or perhaps a sub panel if the panel is full). You certainly could use a small generator transfer switch to be sure that the dryer was disconnected when you were connected and that might even pass inspection but inspectors don't like unusual things and, while this probably doesn't violate code, it isn't, AFAIK, usual.

One issue to consider is that older dryer circuits run just the two phases and the earth (ground) wire. It isn't kosher to derive 120 from a phase and earth so you would have to either use 240 volt for everything or derive 120 from a 240/120 transformer. I believe newer installations require that the neutral now be run as well.

As the question is not what I think, or your wife thinks or even what the NEC says but what your insurance company adjustor might think standing in the ashes of your house I would strongly recommend getting a licensed electrician to do this work. He would probably try to talk you into the separate circuit and that would be, IMO, a good thing. If you want to undertake this yourself, and the fact that you are asking this question tells me you shouldn't, at least have it inspected. Then, if the unthinkable happens, you'll be in a much stronger position WRT the insurance company.
 
Much like the others have said - there are things in life that are worth spending a few extra dollars for. Maybe you buy a nicer stainless kettle vs the cheap Chinese made aluminum one - smart buy. Here, the extra money to run the line correctly is worth it compared to possibly burning down your house or injuring someone. Is your panel accessible from your future brew location? If you don't want to have someone run the line for you, maybe just have them install a spa panel and 4-wire outlet next to your main panel. Then you can build yourself an extension cord of whatever length you need to get from that outlet to your brew location. It may not be the cheapest option, but it would involve less demo / install work of permenant lines and conduit in your house.

At the end of the day - be safe, do it right.
-Kevin
 
I thought this thread was going to be about connecting your vent hood to the dryer vent, which would be a AWESOME idea. Clothes that come out of the dryer smelling like wort & hops. Oh yeah.
 
One issue to consider is that older dryer circuits run just the two phases and the earth (ground) wire. It isn't kosher to derive 120 from a phase and earth so you would have to either use 240 volt for everything or derive 120 from a 240/120 transformer. I believe newer installations require that the neutral now be run as well.

I think it's just opposite. Older installations (pre-1996 or so) typically ran the two hot legs and neutral (NEMA 10-30). The newer installs (1996 or so, and newer) should be the two hot legs, neutral, and ground (NEMA 14-30).

If it's the older style 10-30 you can directly derive 120V from the circuit, albeit one's own decision to run without dedicated safety ground as in the 14-30.

On top of all this it may well be possible there could be a straight 240V w/ ground circuit (NEMA 6-30) but probably rare. Here you'd need alternate means to drive 120V by the book.

The receptacle and plug style should tell what one has, but I wouldn't necessarily bet the farm on that.
 
Yes, I think I'm off on the dates. Just checked the panel in the basement which was put in in '88 and it has the two hots and neutral (for the clothes dryer. At this point I'm not sure whether the 240 only plus earth was much farther back than that or if it's something I saw overseas or just something I don't remember correctly. And now that I think of it I remember having to install the grounding strap when I put in a new clothes dryer.

Thought I'd look at the 11-30 diagram to see if that jogged the memory and it didn't (because that's a 3ø plug/outlet) but close to it on the page is the 6-30 and that's what I'm thinking of and it's not that ancient. My air compressor (no 120V loads - just a 240 V motor) has that plug on it wired up about 8 years ago.
 
maybe you could run 240v wire up to the dryer outlet with the correct 240 plug. Then you could unplug the dryer and plug in for the brew elements. kind of a pain but simple.
 
If it were me I would get another breaker box and run the dryer wire into it, then set the dryer on a separate breaker so that I would be sure the two circuits would not be used at the same time. Simple, and as long as you make sure to turn the dryer breaker off when you brew, safe.
 
Thought I'd look at the 11-30 diagram to see if that jogged the memory and it didn't (because that's a 3ø plug/outlet) but close to it on the page is the 6-30 and that's what I'm thinking of and it's not that ancient. My air compressor (no 120V loads - just a 240 V motor) has that plug on it wired up about 8 years ago.

You're right, 11-30 is typically used as a 3-phase plug, should have been 6-30. The reference chart I had been using wasn't very clear in this regard.
 
If it were me I would get another breaker box and run the dryer wire into it, then set the dryer on a separate breaker so that I would be sure the two circuits would not be used at the same time. Simple, and as long as you make sure to turn the dryer breaker off when you brew, safe.

I like this idea. At the start and end of each brew day, I could flip the two breakers, ensuring I wouldn't trip due to the dryer and brewery running at the same time.

And I think I have a spare panel at my wife's office, left over from a remodel.

Any danger or code worries about daisy chaining a subpanel and a spa panel?
 
The second box becomes a 'sub panel'. If the wiring between the main panel and the sub panel is large enough to carry the load of both the dryer and the additional equipment and if the breaker in the main panel which feeds this wiring is sized sufficiently to protect that wiring and if two hots, neutral and ground are all run between the panel and sub panel this is all OK AFAIK. If you don't meet these criteria under the assumption that you'll just remember to flip one or the other of the breakers that's not OK and that's why I earlier recommended a small transfer switch which really does exactly what this proposed scheme does but does it in such a way that you cannot have both loads connected at the same time. In fact this one

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200196624_200196624?isSearch=100021

is exactly that - two breakers mounted with the handles linked so that you can't turn one on without turning the other off.
 
that's why I earlier recommended a small transfer switch which really does exactly what this proposed scheme does but does it in such a way that you cannot have both loads connected at the same time. In fact this one

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200196624_200196624?isSearch=100021

is exactly that - two breakers mounted with the handles linked so that you can't turn one on without turning the other off.

I'm following now. Thanks.

Although it is starting to seem like running a separate circuit isn't all that pricey compared to the alternatives.
 

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