its stainless steel braid. holes already there. i know its ugly but it was a test run.You do have holes cut in your tubing right? If not, that is your problem IMO. I have a brass square head plug (Watts #737) in the end of my tubing with a SS clamp to keep anything out.
its stainless steel braid. holes already there. i know its ugly but it was a test run.
It is just a braid with no tubing inside? Wouldn't that collapse under the weight of the grist anyhow?
Hi, Guys.
Quality stainless braiding should hold up to the weight with out collapsing. If it collapses it is most likely that faux SS plastic crap.
I'm very much a noob, but it seems the problem with the lack of internal tubing and such a long braid will be the tendancy for the braid to flex downward rather than collapse. Since the braid is an open filtration system and not a sealed hose, only the length of the braid that is level to the valve inlet will be effective. I think this will result in less area to filter the wort and more possibility for a stuck sparge.
I'm not sure what cooper wire is, but if it holds the braid level with the valve, it should be okay in my inexperienced opinion.
That looks like it would be a PITA. Too long, too flexible, too wimpy. I used a 12 inch water heater supply line. It would go over the outside of you fittings. I can beat the s*#t out of it when stirring with no problems.
I think I used this one. http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-3-4-in-x-12-in-Braided-Stainless-Steel-Water-Heater-Supply-Line-FIP-x-FIP-Lead-Free-LFBK-LBF-12/203789991#.Udt1LfmW-So
That's the same one I used. Works awesome and doesn't require any reinforcement. It was a bit of ***** to slip the braid off the rubber hose inside though. I believe I used a 3/4" brass nut to cap it and married the other end to my existing 1/4" barb connector.
Think of it as the old Chinese fingercuffs trick. Push each end of the braid in towrds the center. The braid will expand and you can pull out the tubing.
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