Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

Williams 728
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Is there any store that sells high temp tubing, besides homebrew online? Also, hard time finding that exact size.
Thinking about just sticking with the braided tube for the first couple batches, any major issue?
 
dwpumo said:
Is there any store that sells high temp tubing, besides homebrew online? Also, hard time finding that exact size.
Thinking about just sticking with the braided tube for the first couple batches, any major issue?
Click to expand...

Most people don't bother using the tubing. The braid is stiff enough new that it isn't needed.
 
dwpumo said:
Any issues with the stainless hose clamps rusting?
Click to expand...

Not if they are all SS including the bolt. That's where most fail. SS band but not the bolt.

Am I the only one that wishes Coleman made a 15 gallon round water cooler?
 
Instead of the SS hose clamp, I used a plastic zip tie. Works great. Also, I use the braided hose as the outlet of the mash tun to direct the wort into my boil kettle.
 
I currently fly sparge in my bucket set up, and will probably continue to do so when I jump to the 10gal version of one of these.

Does any one have measurements and parts list for a cpvc or copper manifold? (leaning towards cpvc at the moment)

Is manifold hooked to valve on inside of mash with a short section of vinyl tubing?

I tend to mash thin (and planning on 10gal mash tun) so I'm thinking about just getting a second 5gal version as a sparge water tank. Don't think i'd ever need more than a 5 gal sparge on a 5.5 gal batch even with mashing thick and doing a 6.5 gal full boil with 10 gallon mash tun.

Any easy way to hook one of these up to 5gal Rubbermaid (Gott) water tank? don't need fancy ball valve for just warm sparge water...

italian-bottling-spigot.jpg


thanks
 
For anyone planning to build one of these, I highly recommend upgrading all the fittings to 1/2" ID instead of the 3/8" used in the original build.

Much easier to integrate with pumps and other hardware when you want to do recirculation, etc.
 
I just made this right after Christmas and have to say its a great design. I did use zip ties instead of hose clamps (home depot did not seem to have any ss hose clamps) and larger washers on the outside of the cooler. So far its worked great.
 
I just made a mash tun using these directions and it came out great! I am going to brew my first all grain brew today with it. thanks for the directions Fly Guy.
 
starrfish said:
Does any one have measurements and parts list for a cpvc or copper manifold? (leaning towards cpvc at the moment)

Is manifold hooked to valve on inside of mash with a short section of vinyl tubing?
Click to expand...

I've made cpvc manifolds for both a 5 gallon and 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler. For the 10 gallon you need 4 one-half inch 90 degree elbows, 9 one-half inch tees, 1 one-half inch 45 degree elbow, about 5 feet of 1/2 inch pipe, and one barbed to male NPT threaded adapters.

Connect 2 of the 90 degree elbows and 4 tees together. There are no gaps between the fittings - you'll use approx. 1'' sections of straight pipe to make the connections. Make 2 of these. Set them on the bottom of your cooler paralell to each other spaced as far apart as possible. Measure and cut 6 sections of straight pipe for the cross members of your manifold. You want their length to be long enough that when you place the completed manifold on the bottom of your cooler its a "friction fit" and won't fall out if you turn the cooler upside down.

Once the basic manifold is complete, cut a section out of one of the "inner" cross members and fit your last tee. The 45 degree elbow and barbed to male NPT fitting attach to this tee, and a short section of braided vinyl tubing is used to connect the manifold to the outlet of the cooler.

Shoot me a PM if you want pictures of my manifold.
 
jmf143 said:
I've made cpvc manifolds for both a 5 gallon and 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler. For the 10 gallon you need 4 one-half inch 90 degree elbows, 9 one-half inch tees, 1 one-half inch 45 degree elbow, about 5 feet of 1/2 inch pipe, and one barbed to male NPT threaded adapters.

Connect 2 of the 90 degree elbows and 4 tees together. There are no gaps between the fittings - you'll use approx. 1'' sections of straight pipe to make the connections. Make 2 of these. Set them on the bottom of your cooler paralell to each other spaced as far apart as possible. Measure and cut 6 sections of straight pipe for the cross members of your manifold. You want their length to be long enough that when you place the completed manifold on the bottom of your cooler its a "friction fit" and won't fall out if you turn the cooler upside down.

Once the basic manifold is complete, cut a section out of one of the "inner" cross members and fit your last tee. The 45 degree elbow and barbed to male NPT fitting attach to this tee, and a short section of braided vinyl tubing is used to connect the manifold to the outlet of the cooler.

Shoot me a PM if you want pictures of my manifold.
Click to expand...

I used high temp silicone tubing from midwest supplies. The braided "high temp" tubing I got at the hardware store got hard after the first brew. The inside of the MLT doesn't require high pressure line.
 
BierSnob said:
I used high temp silicone tubing from midwest supplies. The braided "high temp" tubing I got at the hardware store got hard after the first brew. The inside of the MLT doesn't require high pressure line.
Click to expand...

We're probably better off not having a rigid high temp tube on the inside. That way, if you hot it with your mash paddle, the line will flex and not pop off.
 
this was a great idea that you made. I just bought all the parts and am looking to put it together for my next all grain oberon clone recipe. glad you posted it.
 
Just built a 5 gallon mash tun thanks to these great directions!

Advice to future builders: make sure you put the rubber seal from the cooler back in the right way. If you put it in backwards, it will leak. Trust me!
 
hey Flyguy thanks just finished mine and of course did a batch right away. Worked great. thanks again
 
What a great set up. after a trial run with just hot water i was able to fix my leaky gasket and determine how much temp loss I would encounter. Brewed a batch today and all was well. Thanks for the idea.
 
Flyguy, thanks for posting this and following up on the thread. It really motivated me to pursue this.


To others that that pick up an Igloo cooler with the thin bulkhead at the opening like myself I offer the following tips:

If you want 1/2" brass fittings will fit if you would like to use the existing bulkhead fittings, note I did not test for leaks.

If you stick with 3/8" brass a 5/8" ID x 1-1/8" grommet will fit the hole perfectly, you can also use a 3/8" close nipple:

IMG_0320.jpg


IMG_0321.jpg


You can forgo any thread tape on the interior:

IMG_0322.jpg


You will need a couple washers (5/8") on the exterior, this will allow full movement of the valve handle:

IMG_0324.jpg



Hope this is helpful. I tested it with 140° water with no issue.
 
uuurang said:
Anybody try zip ties in MLT? Would the plastic hold up to the heat? That seems to be the simplest solution...If soft vinyl tubing can stand hot temps than I would think hard plastic zip-ties would too. Jeez, I just gotta do it and see what happens.
Click to expand...

Sorry to pick out an old post but I wanted to add to this. The zip ties that I purchased are rated up to 186 degrees which is most likely higher than the mash tun will ever be. Even though I'm sure there is a factor of safety in that number.
 
I used this recipe to make my MLT and it wasn't quite so cheap, in total it costed me about $75 after taxes. A MLT from the homebrew store here costs $90 for a 5 gallon, so regardless, I still saved a lot of cash. But a little more expensive than above. :) I haven't used it yet though, I'll update and let ya know how it turned out.

Thanks!
 
I have a false bottom in mine and love it. Never a stuck sparge and 85% efficiency on average using the batch method. I like that I have the option to fly sparge too.
 
klyph said:
That's a polymer braid, not SS.
Click to expand...

Good lord, what was I thinking. Good catch.

Rack04 posted a hose with those floodsafe fittings. That's a bit pricy especially when you are just going to cut the fittings off. My point was to find one with cheaper fittings.

Thanks again.
 
I made a mash tun, but also a HLT using the same basic method. Unfortunately my HLT is bulging on the inside, I assume from the heat of the water. I only get that water up to around 175 degrees. My concern is that it will eventually get alot worse...anyone else having this issue? These are 10 gallon Rubbermaid coolers.
 
I have a 10 gallon igloo, the inside liner is distorted, but intact. If it develops any cracks, I'll junk it and make a SS mash tun.
 
I've used my rubbermaid once no bulges... yet, however I did pre-heat mine with hot tap water before using. I read this somewhere else, seems to work. My strike temp was 167° for a 152° mash temp. I was planning on building a sparge tank, but I really think I'm just going to continue with the 5gallon bottling bucket I currently use just because of this very reason.
 
Not sure if anyone has addressed it in this thread already, but I'll ask anyhow. I just bought a 5/8 nipple, and some 5/8 washers...My washers will only fit over the nipple a very little bit. Anyone have any suggestions here.
 
Frenchy said:
Not sure if anyone has addressed it in this thread already, but I'll ask anyhow. I just bought a 5/8 nipple, and some 5/8 washers...My washers will only fit over the nipple a very little bit. Anyone have any suggestions here.
Click to expand...

Is it the washer on the inside or outside that you're having trouble making fit?
 
Frenchy said:
Not sure if anyone has addressed it in this thread already, but I'll ask anyhow. I just bought a 5/8 nipple, and some 5/8 washers...My washers will only fit over the nipple a very little bit. Anyone have any suggestions here.
Click to expand...


5/8" ID washer won't fit a 5/8" nipple.

You should be using 3/8" or 1/2" hardware or larger washers.
 
Correction...I AM using a 3/8 nipple, and a 5/8 washer, and it won't fit. It starts to fit, but then locks up on the threads of the nipple. Could this just be a poorly made washer? They came 2 to a pack, and both washers in that pack did it. I haven't opened the other packs to see if they do the same yet.

Update here. I must have bought some washers that were poorly made. I went back to Menards, and in a different area of hardware they had thick fender washers, and SS washers that fit perfectly on the 3/8 nipple.
 
Can I fit a 10 Gallon batch in these things? I think my issue is my sparge tank will be too small, but wanted to know what other people do
 
dwpumo said:
Can I fit a 10 Gallon batch in these things? I think my issue is my sparge tank will be too small, but wanted to know what other people do
Click to expand...

Yeah, you can mash 22-26 pounds of grain depending on your water ratio. I do have to do a double batch sparge though. No biggie.
 
Got everything at Lowe's except the fender washers. Got a place in mind for those.

Will the nut from the original faucet work?

Definitely saving a decent amount over the $130 10 gal MLT at the LHBS.
 

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