29thfloor
Well-Known Member
Anyone have success making a copper manifold instead of the braid?
I used a rectangular cooler but I made a copper manifold for it that seems to be working great.
Anyone have success making a copper manifold instead of the braid?
I had alot of trouble looking for cpvc, the guys at hd couldn't even figure it out so I needed up going with copper for a manifold, my question is I see some guys drill the holes on the bottom and some on the top, wouldn't it be best if the holes where on the bottom for maximum wort?
Out of curiosity what size but did you use on the holes?
What is the reasoning for using a manifold vs. the stainless tubing as described?
Also, I can't say that I read all 205 pages of this thread, but was lead content in brass parts discussed at all? I see John Palmer talks about soaking brass parts in vinegar and hydrogen peroxide to remove lead from brass.
cpatel479 said:Anyone try a washing machine drain hose instead of a supply hose?
http://www.lowes.com/pd_366947-104-LL-T2_0__?productId=3579522&Ntt=braided+supply+hose&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dbraided%2Bsupply%2Bhose&facetInfo=
Just curious if it would save on cutting and clamping....
I don't think there's an advantage to using the larger diameter braid. If anything it will collapse, or make it easier to break the syphon
I don't think there's an advantage to using the larger diameter braid. If anything it will collapse, or make it easier to break the syphon
I am looking to make a mashtun for stove top batches of 1-2.5 gallons. I have 2 rectangular cooler mashtuns already (48 qt and 60 qt) that I use when I brew outside. I was wondering what brewers might think of using a 5 gallon cylindrical cooler for these brews. Would that be too big or meet the right minimum grain bed depth? [I currently batch sparge so grain depth might not be a huge issue.] Has anyone successfully made a mashtun from a cylindrical cooler that is less than 5 gallons?
got mine built today and did a leak test. All good!
All the ss parts came from bargainfittings.com
here's the bulkhead kit i went with. I went with the standard coupling as the inside fitting, 1.5" nipple, 3 piece ss ball valve, no hose barb and one extra ss washer. From the outlet of the ball valve i have a 1/2" street elbow attached to a 1/2" ss camlock f style fitting. then i have a 1/2" ss camlock b style fitting attached to a 1/2" npt female x 1/2" hose barb. which is attached to the hi-temp tube with a hose clamp.
I am getting a lot of stuck sparges with this system it worked great for a while and now i feel like i have to clean it after every few batches, any suggestions or advice. I have the ss hose with about 16 cuts on the inner rubber hose. I let the liquid out really slow but it turns into a 1.5 hours for each mash.
I am getting a lot of stuck sparges with this system it worked great for a while and now i feel like i have to clean it after every few batches, any suggestions or advice. I have the ss hose with about 16 cuts on the inner rubber hose. I let the liquid out really slow but it turns into a 1.5 hours for each mash.
Ditch the rubber hose
Yep. I started with water heater braid (bigger is better, right?) I had one good brew day and then three stuck mashes in a row. I ditched that and went with the standard sink braid, but I outthought myself and drilled a buch of holes in the hose and put it into the braid. I had a stuck mash on the first brew with it. I dumped the mash, took off the braid, removed the hose and put the braid back on.
I've used it for 4 brews since and haven't had a problem.
I guess sometimes it's better not to try to imporve on a great design...
I've been following this thread for months now. It seems like everyone and their dog has come up with an "improvement" to prevent the SS braid collapsing... Improvements that seem unnecessary because in the months I've followed the thread I cannot recall ONE report of a collapsed stainless steel braid causing a stuck sparge. Someone correct me if I'm wrong..
Personally I used the braid for two brews just waiting on my SS false bottom because I intend to transition to fly sparging, and there was no problem sparging, and afterward the braid looked no different from when it went in.
Remember that the weight of the grain is distributed over the entire cooler bottom, not just on the braid. You would need much more 'targeted' pressure/weight on the braid to crush it, IMO. Even if the central lumen of the braid were somewhat smushed or even flattened, what matters in a batch sparge situation is that there are still gaps between the actual strands of stainless steel which are braided, and that liquid can still seep through. I can't imagine the braid being crushed so uniformly and so tightly that you could make it "watertight".
@bovineblitz - Could you post a pic or provide more details on the "new braid with a spring inside along with a T splitter (this was so I could angle the barbs downwards to reduce deadspace though)?"
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