janitorjerm
Well-Known Member
I'm trying to wire up the temp controller I purchased off ebay but no dice. Can't seem to sort out the wiring on this old fridge. If anyone could help I am in desperate need. Heres a few pictures to try and help out.
I wonder if you over thought this one? If you wired up a 120V receptacle then you could simply plug the refrigerator into that, set the refrigerator for the lowest temp, then let the thermostat turn it off and on. Wouldn't that have been easier? Of course, the light only works when the compressor is running.
I wonder if you over thought this one? If you wired up a 120V receptacle then you could simply plug the refrigerator into that, set the refrigerator for the lowest temp, then let the thermostat turn it off and on. Wouldn't that have been easier? Of course, the light only works when the compressor is running.
Looks like model # ET14JKXSW03
This site is where manuals and warranties are found, so maybe there is something that can help. If that is not the model or you can not find the model #, just use the closest one to it.
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/pro...chTerm=et14jk&siteCd=WHRCOM&userType=Consumer
If that gets it running, then you can just wire those two wires (the red and black) into your controller on terminals 7-8 for cooling and run the probe into the fridge.
And of course you'll need to wire power to the temp controller as well.
So plug them both into 7 & 8 or does one go to 7 and the other to 8?
Tie one to 7 and one to 8. When the controller wants to kick on the cooling, it will complete the connection between the red and black wires and your fridge will start running.
So plug them both into 7 & 8 or does one go to 7 and the other to 8?
No it will not unless we missed something.
So we have no use for pink brown white?
1 red
2 green
7 red
8 black
Does that sound about right?
Um....Is this comment not ringing alarm bells with anyone else?
Make sure you know what you are doing and are confindent you have done it right, this forum can offer you advice on how to wire the controller but unless you fully understand the advice it is very dangerous to be wiring this up yourself. If you are not 100% sure you have done it right at the very least have someone that has some knowledge in electrical wiring check your work.
Just looking out for you.
There will be no need for the other wires if there is not a defrost timer. The other wires power the timer, which cuts power to the compressor/fan motor when in defrost mode, and give power to the defrost burner. None of this will be necessary if the freezer is never kept at freezing temps, which it won't be if the fridge is kept in the 60-70° range.
And yes, tying the red & black together will cause it to run non-stop. That was meant to be a test to see if the fridge came on before wiring it to the temp controller.
Black is the hot, not red, and green is the ground, not your neutral. White is your neutral. So:
1 - Black
2- White
7- Black (a jumper wire from #1)
8- Red
Here they are, I know double posting is wrong but it seem beter than editing the old post.
Okay, I found the schematic online for that fridge. It's used in a LOT of models. Inside your fridge, and with it UNPLUGGED, tie red to black. Cap all of the others. You won't be needing them since it looks like the defrost timer has been cut out by someone (it would be mounted inside the fridge up top). The fridge should now power on when plugged in.
Here's the schematic. It takes a couple minutes to load because it's got schematics for a bunch of appliances. You'll need to scroll down to page 11-1 for your schematic. It doesn't say your exact model, but this is the same design/wiring they used on a ton of fridges.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/50f816f965983b38852574a5004bde8a/$FILE/8178743.pdf
If that gets it running, then you can just wire those two wires (the red and black) into your controller on terminals 7-8 for cooling and run the probe into the fridge.
And of course you'll need to wire power to the temp controller as well.
You have it wired correctly, so the PID is not working.
If you tie black to red, and the fridge comes on, then it's the PID not doing it's job. That is all the PID does: close a switch between 7 & 8, black to red.
If the PID is on, and in cooling mode, and showing a reading from the sensor that is warmer than it's setting, then it's not working.
Also, If you hooked up white & black to 7 & 8 before, or green & black, it's possible it fried the relay in the PID.
You have it wired correctly, so the PID is not working.
If you tie black to red, and the fridge comes on, then it's the PID not doing it's job. That is all the PID does: close a switch between 7 & 8, black to red.
If the PID is on, and in cooling mode, and showing a reading from the sensor that is warmer than it's setting, then it's not working.
Also, If you hooked up white & black to 7 & 8 before, or green & black, it's possible it fried the relay in the PID.
Ha, I did that combination days ago and it just flipped the breaker when I tried. Never mix black and white it is very dangerous. Looks like I will have to buy another PID. Let this be a lesson to others.
Yeah, that was a bad move. You created a short circuit between hot and neutral. The breaker tripped when the current exceeded 15A or 20A, but the little relay inside the temp controller (it's not really an actual PID is it?) probably died before the breaker tripped.
Ebay temp controller.
Yeah, that was a bad move. You created a short circuit between hot and neutral. The breaker tripped when the current exceeded 15A or 20A, but the little relay inside the temp controller (it's not really an actual PID is it?) probably died before the breaker tripped.
Ebay temp controller.
IMO yeah it is a PID.
prefer one that is not in Hong Kong.
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