bjp
New Member
If I brew a beer for kegging, but I'm not ready to hook it up to the kegerator, can I put it in the keg without priming sugar or refrigeration to condition til I'm ready to hook up to CO2/kegerator?
If I brew a beer for kegging, but I'm not ready to hook it up to the kegerator, can I put it in the keg without priming sugar or refrigeration to condition til I'm ready to hook up to CO2/kegerator?
Yes. After you put the lid on, hit it with enough CO2 to not only purge the oxygen, but also seal the keg. Many times a keg will not properly seal without doing it.
Once you siphon the beer into the keg, add the priming sugar, and force all the oxy out, how long should you let it condition? Also, I have a nitrogen tank and regulator from a guinness jocky box I've used, whats the rule on using nitrogen to fill the keg?
If you can't do that, then I'm in big trouble.If I brew a beer for kegging, but I'm not ready to hook it up to the kegerator, can I put it in the keg without priming sugar or refrigeration to condition til I'm ready to hook up to CO2/kegerator?
Now I have to figure out if I want to add more sugar/syrup to reprime said:Just curious, why would you want to add sugar if you can force carbonate with the gas? Do you feel you get a better flavor profile that way?
Just curious, why would you want to add sugar if you can force carbonate with the gas? Do you feel you get a better flavor profile that way?
Certainly! A keg is just really a big bottle, when you think about it. Sanitize the keg, of course, and then store it where it's convenient. You can prime it if you want, or you can just wait and force carb it. Either way is fine.
I'm going to double my saying on co2 flushing and do a co2 pressure check for leaks. (5 psi seems to be more than enough to leak check.) I thought I was keg priming for the past 3 weeks, but apparently my relief valve's threading is messed up so it wasn't completely sealed.
I checked the keg before and the lid snaps tight without the need to do the pressure, but, I'll be sure to check next time in case that valve isn't on right.
Now I have to figure out if I want to add more sugar/syrup to reprime, or just force carb the darn thing so I don't have to open the lid.
Here is a dumb question but will the keg if left at room temp still try to ferment or is it completely done once moved to the keg? I switched from bottles to keg for several reasons but one was to avoid the yeast settlement at the bottom of the bottles.
And to older posts, you should always seal your keg @30psi. Your not doing it to get the air out, your doing it to put huge pressure on the inside of the lid to force it up and to seal tight. If i just set my lids and set it to 5-10PSI, sometimes it will be leaking out the lid slowly and i dont catch it until i spray some starsan on it.
Not certain if this is the same topic but, what if I want to keg something like a high gravity porter or abbey and want to let it sit for 6 months or more, can I do this in a corny if I've followed the method described of purging the O2 with CO2 and sealing the lid? Or is this not recommended? Thanks.
That's fine so long as you purge it well a few times with CO2. Lots of brewers condition/lager in a corny keg for months.
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