Heating element rust, HT/food safe silicone recommendation or other?

Hey,
I've made great progress on my electric brewery, but today I noticed that the base of the heating element is starting to rust. I have run water through the system twice, and dried it off pretty well (or so I thought). I've read several threads on the matter and many people use sacrificial anodes (Aluminum or Magnesium), but I would much rather seal it.

People mentioned using high temperature, food safe silicone sealant and also POR-15. From what I've read online, POR-15 doesn't seem to be food safe (?)...

So, could someone recommend a good sealant?

Should I just not worry about the rusting (I'd imagine the same thing goes on my regular water heater/apartment plumbing). How dangerous is the rust (if at all)? or does it just give a metalic taste?

Thanks,

OE

OEHokie said:

Should I just not worry about the rusting (I'd imagine the same thing goes on my regular water heater/apartment plumbing). How dangerous is the rust (if at all)? or does it just give a metalic taste?

Thanks,

OE

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I don't know about a good high temp food-safe sealant, but rust is definitely bad for brewing. Even scratches in the coating of a stainless steel pot will give you a metallic taste. As far as health, high doses of iron oxide are not well-understood, but are linked to parkinson's and heart issues.

I am having the same issue, and am planning to try this before shelling out the $ on that POR-15 stuff:

DAP Aquarium Sealant

Lowes carries it. I've used it in the past to patch cracks in a cooler MLT. It's food safe and has a working temperature of 400 degrees once fully cured. Here is the data sheet from the manufacturer's website:

http://www.dap.com/docs/tech/00000688001.pdf

Personally, I'd rather have to reapply a silicone sealant periodically (if it's even necessary) at $4 a tube, than spend $30+ on the POR-15 stuff.

rocketman768 said:

As far as health, high doses of iron oxide are not well-understood, but are linked to parkinson's and heart issues.

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That is the least of your problems if this was actually true.

TD

rudy0498 said:

I am having the same issue, and am planning to try this before shelling out the $ on that POR-15 stuff:

DAP Aquarium Sealant

Lowes carries it. I've used it in the past to patch cracks in a cooler MLT. It's food safe and has a working temperature of 400 degrees once fully cured. Here is the data sheet from the manufacturer's website:

http://www.dap.com/docs/tech/00000688001.pdf

Personally, I'd rather have to reapply a silicone sealant periodically (if it's even necessary) at $4 a tube, than spend $30+ on the POR-15 stuff.

Click to expand...

Thanks, yeah I'm going to try this stuff. Have you already/how did it work?

OEHokie said:

Thanks, yeah I'm going to try this stuff. Have you already/how did it work?

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I haven't gotten around to it yet. I plan trying to have it done in time to brew this upcoming weekend. I'll let you know how it works.

-Chris

rudy0498 said:

I haven't gotten around to it yet. I plan trying to have it done in time to brew this upcoming weekend. I'll let you know how it works.

-Chris

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I just used it myself... just so you know, it says it takes 7 days to fully cure to full strength. 24-48 hours for use, but I don't know if that includes

Cheers

White Lightning Silicone Sealant sku 23275-09010 meets FDA regulations for food contact. I think I gave $4 for a 10 ounce tube, a caulking gun size tube. I used it for all four of my heatsticks, with at least 1/3 of the tube left over. I put a generous layer over the base of the heating elements and the zinc plated ring nuts. It takes about a week for it to cure before it stops off-gassing acetic acid, i.e. vinegar. It has held up fine for about a year.

Either that or do the best to sand off the rust.