Interesting. I'd like to hear more on that if you care to share. It's been my understanding that the yeast are packaged with nutrients including the sterols they need to form cell walls. I've actually tried gleaning information from others about the use of dry yeast in starters but typically the flow of information stops at that point, which is why I've held on to my belief that in theory a dry yeast starter could be done without compromising the health of the yeast. Mind you, I haven't actually made a dry yeast starter as I haven't ever had the need to pitch more than one satchel. Academically though, I'm interested in knowing why a starter (as before, of sufficient volume to support and grow a healthy colony that is starting at +/-200b cells) is considered so bad with dry yeast, when they can reproduce and be harvested for re-use just fine after fermenting a beer.
So... I thought the glycol was there to provide sterols so the yeast could form cell walls upon rehydration. Hence, why I was under the impression that using a stir plate to provide oxygen would suffice as that serves the same purpose early on. Can you set me straight?
Sure, I'll do my best (I am not a microbiologist and won't pretend to be one)
The process of manufacturing dry yeast involves processes that allow the yeast to be packaged containing all of the necessary cell reserves they require to properly ferment beer and grow during the lag phase. Simple re-hydration brings all the cells back into a pliable state so the nutrients and reserves are readily available once the yeast begins consuming the o2 in the well-aerated wort. Making a simple starter with dry yeast simply depletes all the cell reserves that the manufacturers have already packed into the yeast.
Further, because there are +/- 200B cells in a dry 11.5 gram pack, there is pretty much an adequate amount of cells present to ferment a typical 1.060 +/- wort. Because dry yeast is inexpensive, if a larger cell count is required it is actually less expensive to re-hydrate a second pack then make a starter.
As for the re-use / harvest question: Because the dry yeast was already used to ferment a beer, the harvested yeast is technically no longer a dry yeast. It is now a liquid slurry, fully depleted of the reserves and nutrients originally packaged so from that point forward it would then be necessary to create a starter or pitch the required amount of slurry to properly ferment the next batch of wort. In other words, the manufacturer has already taken into account the benefits of a starter in the prepackaged dry yeast to ensure everything the yeast needs to do its job is already present so re-hydrate it and pitch it, don't waste the time and effort trying to re-create something that is already present
Many experts state that if simply pitching dry yeast into a wort, roughly half of the cells will be killed off if not properly re-hydrated, thus increasing lag time and the overall health of the ferment of the beer. (Quoted from "Yeast" pg. 133) ("Working with dry yeast" pg. 146)
Liquid yeast strains are essentially harvested products from original slants of a yeast library mass produced into pre-packaged colonies of +/-100B cells. Because of the way they are produced and packaged they do not maintain the same viability during storage and transport as dry. Wyeast provides a nutrient pack that when smacked releases into the yeast and allows them to begin taking up the necessary nutrients and build reserves but this is not a starter wort and the cells do not multiply, they simply take up nutrients. Since nobody ever really gets a perfectly fresh from the factory pack, degradation has already occurred and thus, the starter is highly recommended to produce the proper pitch rate as well as the cells ability to create the necessary reserves to begin fermenting the wort. It is the making of the starter and the addition of o2 that then allows the cells to reproduce and multiply. Yes, I know, both Wyeast and White Labs state their packs/vials will direct pitch a 1.060 beer and I will not tell you they won't. There is a difference though between fermenting a beer and PROPERLY fermenting a beer in a HEALTHY way. (Covered in "Yeast" pg 132, "Homebrew Propagation-viability and starters)
All yeast will ferment a beer as long as they are viable but healthy yeast and pitch rates will allow for the best fermentation of the beer without stress or potential for off flavor production or poor attenuation.
Hope this helps! If you do not have the book "Yeast" I would highly recommend it as a great resource for any brewer's library!