rosienej
Well-Known Member
This weekend I am testing with a 10 gallon mash of a Dale-Pale Ale clone, and another 5 gallon batch. I will put up the results.
So how did the beer turn out?
I've kept this as a plan, but for now I figure I better just work on brewing in general (all-grain is still new, batch #2 coming up with an IPA).
I will switch to a RIMS system, the question is whether it will be RIMS or HERMS, well technically they are all HERMS right?
My question for this system will involve something with a very stepped mash,
like a good oatmeal stout, or wheat beer. How do the steps go, and how are the results? I've read the recommended 2°F/min, does this perform faster or slower?
-Mac
All of them recirculate, but the HERMS applies heat indirectly to the pipe rather than putting the heating element in the flow of the mash.I will switch to a RIMS system, the question is whether it will be RIMS or HERMS, well technically they are all HERMS right?
Due to the thermal mass in the tun, temp rise requires the wort coming out of the heat exchanger to be some delta higher than the desired new temp. To ramp faster than 1-2F per minute would require that temp to be something close to boiling and the very top of the tun and grain bed could be overheated.
How much additional temp control did you get by using the rod & spring? It would be one less thing to clean if I were to leave it out.
(not sure if you clean in place, but I was thinking of using tri-clamps to connect everything so I can easily disassemble for scrubbing)
So am I understanding correctly that you are actually running 2 of these pipes concurrently to achieve that 1*/minute temperature rise?
I love this idea. A lot. I just want to make sure I know exactly what's going on before I commit.
Also, do you have a wiring diagram for your setup?
Thanks for all the hard work. People whose minds think in this way amaze me.
Thanks for the diagram.
I saw the build and understand how it works, I was just wondering if the desired effect could be achieved with 1 of those units instead of two, and if the drop off in performance was significant with 1 as opposed to two.
You said you'd been running the system for a couple of years. Were you only running 1 unit up until recently? If so, what did you observe to be the efficiency difference in maintaining/controlling temperature?
Thanks again.
I was thinking about using heat tape for lagering in a 15 gallon SS Blichmann conical during the winter (keeping it outside in a box made from insulation board). Any thoughts on how much heat tape I'd need and at what strength? This seems more feasable than something like fermwrap because of the shape of the conical and all of the fittings.
I'm hoping that I could use a lower wattage tape to keep the costs down some, but it's been a looooong time since high school physycs and I wouldn't know where to start with trying to figure it out. I can say that I'd probably use 2" insulation board to form the box, and the winters in DC can be anywhere from 0-50 degrees, depending.
I will mount the thermal fuses this weekend, and maybe put the mess in the box.
Too many projects.
1) Heater needs to be finished
2) Wifi and RF temp. build starting (see thread)
3) Beer in the bag needs to be finished... still rather good
Is there a link to the thread for the Wifi and RF temp build? I would like to take a look at this.
How will this save on the pump?
I didn't see a picture of the spring in the tube. Does it rest against the sides of the tube or is it held in the middle by the rod?
Can you post a link to where someone is boiling wort in a RIMS tube please?
I would like to boil without a propane burner or a heat stick. I do BIAB but I don't think that makes any difference in how the RIMS works.
Thanks for that link.
He talks like the whole pot doesn't have to boil at once, but I gather that the whole pot has to be boiled even if a little at a time to drive off the "stinky" parts.
I hope you can find the link to the 3kw internal element builder.
Is there a reason you went with stainless steel over copper for the heating tube?
I was actually thinking more of the better heat conductivity of copper rather than the cost. Can you explain more detail on the electrolysis issue?
Hey, am thinking of putting something like this together. I'd like to put it in a toolbox or something similar. Assuming I used the same materials as you, do you think there is any chance I could get away with the heating pipes in the same small enclosure (thinking a 24"x9"x9" aluminium box) as the PID controller and the SSR? Or does the system, even well insulated, still just put out too much heat to operate in an enclosure with temperature sensitive electronics?
Thanks for the thread.
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