perlick faucets... chrome or SS?

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Zeppman

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Hey everyone,

I'm working on converting a freezer to a keezer, and am unsure on if I should go with the chrome or all stainless. The price difference (for a 6 faucet keezer) is well over $100. I'm working with keg connection, and the guy there thought that crhome was fine, and as he said, "your brew water sure isn't touching only stainless steel before it hits your kettle".

So what do you all think? Should I splurge on stainless? Is it really worth it?
 
My brew water also isn't carbonated or acidic, so that theory goes right out the window in my book.

I went with all SS faucets, shanks, and tailpieces, mostly because I'm looking at them as an investment. I'd rather buy SS components once and use them for a lifetime than buy multiple chrome versions as they wear out. That's not to say that they will wear out for sure, but the peace of mind is worth it to me personally. I like the idea that I don't have to worry about unplated brass contacting my beers and yielding off-flavors.

I bought all my 525SS faucets, SS shanks, and SS tailpieces from farmhousebrewingsupply.com.
 
Hey everyone,

I'm working on converting a freezer to a keezer, and am unsure on if I should go with the chrome or all stainless. The price difference (for a 6 faucet keezer) is well over $100. I'm working with keg connection, and the guy there thought that crhome was fine, and as he said, "your brew water sure isn't touching only stainless steel before it hits your kettle".

So what do you all think? Should I splurge on stainless? Is it really worth it?

Generally around here when people refer to Perlick beer faucets what we really mean are the Perlick Forward sealing faucets in either the old model 425 or the newer models 525/575. Perlick also makes traditional rear sealing faucets.

Here is why the distinction is important. The forward sealing faucets that are most recommended are only available in stainless! (at least per their current product catalog)

So in this case, absolutely the forward sealing faucets are worth the extra money. If you could get forward sealing faucets in chrome finished brass, or even polished brass I'd have no problem with it but as far as I know you can't. If you are going to go with a rear sealing faucet to save money, you can probably save a little more and buy a different brand as well.
 
Generally around here when people refer to Perlick beer faucets what we really mean are the Perlick Forward sealing faucets in either the old model 425 or the newer models 525/575. Perlick also makes traditional rear sealing faucets.

Here is why the distinction is important. The forward sealing faucets that are most recommended are only available in stainless! (at least per their current product catalog)

So in this case, absolutely the forward sealing faucets are worth the extra money. If you could get forward sealing faucets in chrome finished brass, or even polished brass I'd have no problem with it but as far as I know you can't. If you are going to go with a rear sealing faucet to save money, you can probably save a little more and buy a different brand as well.

They make the 525 forward sealing in plated chrome also. It's the only Perlick kegconnection sells right now.
 
This is getting more and more interesting, and more confusing. I was told the 525pc is the chrome version of the 525ss, which are identical except for the material, chrome/stainless steel. I'm leaning towards stainless anyway, but I was also told that perlick was having issues with the SS faucets fitting the shanks, and they were leaking. Kegconnection told me the issue was fixed, but perlick increased the price to $39. Does this mean the cheaper ones from other vendors will leak? They are cheaper on other sites.

I'm also confused on barb vs mfl, and the gas line/liquid line diameter that I will need. Anyone have a parts list that I can just follow :) KegConnection seems great, but their prices seem a bit high on the perlick faucets/shanks.
 
Yes, the 525 comes in both SS and Chrome. Over time, you could have issues with corrosion with the chrome. In my opinion, SS is the only way to go. This is a keezer that is subjected to moisture...obviously, they are beer faucets. I say, save yourself the headache of having to swap them out later and go SS.

FYI: One problem though.....I have been speaking to the good folks at Keg Connection about getting another 525SS for my keezer and they discontinued selling them....temporarily for now. Evidently the last shipment of 525ss and 575ss faucets had a manufacturer's defect causing a poor seal between the faucet and the shank, leading to leaking issues. According to Todd, the IT guy there, they have had a bunch of them recently returned due to this issue and they have stopped selling them until Perlick fixes the problem.

I spoke with their sales guy earlier in the week and he said the problem should be resolved within the next couple of weeks based on recent conversations with the manufacturer. I can get them at my local HBS, but they are almost twice the cost of KC, so I'll wait until the issue is resolved and they start distributing them again. So basically, you can only get the chrome version right now through KC, because the SS one's were defective, but I would wait for SS. My 2 cents.
 
Also, you can run Wine through SS or plastic shanks/faucets but the acidity of the wine will break down the chrome pretty quick. Just in case you want the option of having a keg of apflwine on tap.
 
...
I'm also confused on barb vs mfl, and the gas line/liquid line diameter that I will need. Anyone have a parts list that I can just follow :) KegConnection seems great, but their prices seem a bit high on the perlick faucets/shanks.

Barb vs. MFL: if you think you will ever want to swap in a commercial keg go MFL! it makes it fairly easy to remove the cornie connectors and put on a commercial tap head that has been outfitted with MFL tailpieces. Something like this kit has most the parts: http://www.homebrewing.org/Kegerator-Homebrew-Conversion-Kit_p_720.html (this might not be the best price, was just the first result on my Google search).

Line diameter: 3/16" ID for the beer line. Gas line doesn't really matter, some guys just use more beer line, other want a visual difference between and use a colored line. Most commercial kegerators have 9/16" ID red (or blue) gas lines.
 
Yes, Todd said they would be getting their new shipment of the corrected faucets next week. I will probably be going all stainless now, but wow, this is getting expensive.

Want to ask everyone's opinion. Is a 6 faucet keezer overkill? Should I trim it down to four? My keezer has room for 6 (possibly 7) kegs. This will be a major upgrade, either way, from my single tap kegerator. I thought 6 was a good idea, because I plan on upgrading my brew system to a 10gal system this fall.
 
You can always start with four and add two more later. I have four, but my freezer will hold 16 cornies, (or a full size commercial keg and 10-11 cornies). I plan to add at least four more and a stout faucet in the future.
 
Yes, Todd said they would be getting their new shipment of the corrected faucets next week. I will probably be going all stainless now, but wow, this is getting expensive.

Want to ask everyone's opinion. Is a 6 faucet keezer overkill? Should I trim it down to four? My keezer has room for 6 (possibly 7) kegs. This will be a major upgrade, either way, from my single tap kegerator. I thought 6 was a good idea, because I plan on upgrading my brew system to a 10gal system this fall.

If this is what you want, go for it. But you can start smaller and extend later. Just make sure to not have to buy the same things again. For example, you could get a 6 way manifold, but only enough tubing/disconnect/shanks/faucet for 3 or 4 taps. This way, you can add more faucets later when the time is right.
Having 6 taps needs a huge pipeline, unless you do not drink that much and you just want to have a nice selection. But do not forget you can still bottle!
 
I definitely agree that SS is the way to go for you. I have all SS (575SS) on my kegerator at home which is in constant use, but I did skimp a little and got the crome plated forward sealing perlics (525PC) for my jockey box that gets minimal use (probably less than 10 days per year). For a chrome plated faucet, they are pretty excellent, but I would not buy them for daily use.

As they say, "Buy cheap, buy twice"
 
My keezer only holds 4 kegs, so I went with 3 faucets, but a dual body regulator with a 3 way manifold off of one of the bodies. I did it this way to be able to carb. a keg in waiting. The problem is that I get impatient and may not want to wait for another keg to kick before I switch over, so I'm switching beer lines around. My advice would be to have a faucet for each keg carbing in the keezer. I wish I would have just went with 4 faucets for the my 4 keg capacity, because now I'm adding another. My 2 cents. For me, I own my own businesses, so I would have a hard time brewing enough to keep the pipeline going for 6 or so taps, so 4 is plenty for me.
 
You can always start with four and add two more later. I have four, but my freezer will hold 16 cornies, (or a full size commercial keg and 10-11 cornies). I plan to add at least four more and a stout faucet in the future.

+1

Start with 4 and leave yourself room to expand later. This way you will be better able to absorb to cost of the higher end accessories.
 
I was just wondering this same thing, and debating whether or not to use SS or chrome faucets.

I gotta tell ya, sure SS is stronger, more durable, and lasts longer. But we're talking a homebrew kegarator here. How many 1000's of gallons would it really take for even EdWort's concoction to eat away at the chrome? Hell, I have a 1981 Kawasaki that has chrome original mufflers.....and they're still in decent shape. That's chrome passing hot exhaust at highway speeds inches away from road debris for 30+ years.

There's a reason they make bumpers from it, it's pretty damn durable. Bottom line, Perlick is a long-standing company and leader in their field, IMHO they wouldn't save 10 bucks on a faucet if it were crap materials.
 
IMO go stainless and plan for future expansion when you install your shanks and taps, reg's, manifolds, etc. Voice of experience here. Also, always assume you're going to add more in the future. In addition to that, make sure you plan for additional capacity, and go stainless. Did I mention I've been there before?

Beach
 
[...]Want to ask everyone's opinion. Is a 6 faucet keezer overkill?[...]
Oh Hells no!
ab_jul_08_2011_06_sm.jpg

A full set of 525SS faucets and six tasty brews always on tap (well, unless I've been slackin' off or drinking mass quantities - or both :)

Cheers!
 
My keezer only holds 4 kegs, so I went with 3 faucets, but a dual body regulator with a 3 way manifold off of one of the bodies. I did it this way to be able to carb. a keg in waiting. The problem is that I get impatient and may not want to wait for another keg to kick before I switch over, so I'm switching beer lines around. My advice would be to have a faucet for each keg carbing in the keezer. I wish I would have just went with 4 faucets for the my 4 keg capacity, because now I'm adding another. My 2 cents. For me, I own my own businesses, so I would have a hard time brewing enough to keep the pipeline going for 6 or so taps, so 4 is plenty for me.

I keep a picnic tap on my keg in waiting. :mug:
 
+1 on the 4 and wait.
+1 on 575SS

Unless you have the cash to burn anyway. Right now I have a tower with two ss taps on my bar upstairs (fed from the basement keezer). In the keezer in the basement, I have two party taps. My kegerator holds four kegs. Sure I will upgrade someday, but man the current price on those perlicks sure isn't making me rush. Those might be xmas presents for years to come!

If you brew 10G batches relatively often you can keep up with 6 taps. Much more than that, you would have to be throwing parties all the time to get through the beer.
 
When I set up my kegerator I only had the spare cash to get either three stainless setups or six cheapos. I went with three stainless tailpiece, shank, and Perlick 425's. Two years later I bought three more.

six taps is NOT AT ALL overkill.

B
 
I was just wondering this same thing, and debating whether or not to use SS or chrome faucets.

I gotta tell ya, sure SS is stronger, more durable, and lasts longer. But we're talking a homebrew kegarator here. How many 1000's of gallons would it really take for even EdWort's concoction to eat away at the chrome? Hell, I have a 1981 Kawasaki that has chrome original mufflers.....and they're still in decent shape. That's chrome passing hot exhaust at highway speeds inches away from road debris for 30+ years.

There's a reason they make bumpers from it, it's pretty damn durable. Bottom line, Perlick is a long-standing company and leader in their field, IMHO they wouldn't save 10 bucks on a faucet if it were crap materials.

Similar concerns - everyone is discussing the metal used on the taps... aren't the shanks, barbs, connectors sold with these kits chrome? So if I am going with say a standard fridge kit from keg connection, the shanks are going to be chrome, so there isn't a whole lot of point to get stainless perlicks unless Im upgrading the stainless shanks... much more $
 
... aren't the shanks, barbs, connectors sold with these kits chrome? So if I am going with say a standard fridge kit from keg connection, the shanks are going to be chrome...

Can't speak for Keg Connection but I ordered all my parts through my LHBS from Foxx equipment and my shanks/tailpieces are stainless and the ball lock connectors are plastic.

That said, inside the faucet you have some pieces rubbing together which might wear through a spot in the chrome faster than liquid flowing through a shank would. Of course I would wager that most faucets in bars are chrome plated brass and they are not killing to many patrons or we would have heard about it.
 
I keep a picnic tap on my keg in waiting. :mug:

Yeah, but I have a coffin keezer with a top that easily weighs 100 lbs., so everytime I have to open the top, the entire unit has to be pulled about 3 ft. away from the wall and it's heavy as hell.....an awful lot of work to pull a pint off of a keg in waiting. I would rather spend the $40 on another Perlick 525ss and a few more dollars on another beer line, disconnect, etc. The less I have to move and open the top on this beast the better. :tank:
 
Hey OP, so what did you end up with? After talking with Todd back in April-May, I went with the 525PC, partly because it's not just the cost difference between the faucets, but also all of the other metal parts (why buy SS faucets if you don't buy everything SS?) ... and partly because it's just SWMBO and me, so it's not like we'll be pouring 20-30 beers each night ... bought three, but only ended up using two in the final design, so I guess I have a spare ... just got it fired up this week ... still dialing in pressure and temperature, but so far, so good!
 
"your brew water sure isn't touching only stainless steel before it hits your kettle".

So what do you all think? Should I splurge on stainless? Is it really worth it?

You're brew water is not acidic, beer is.

IMO, Stainless is worth it. I had a Chrome faucet de-plate in a surprisingly short amount of time. I'm now all stainless (shanks, faucets, barbs, ball valves, etc.)

I'm not a fan of Chrome (and brass for that matter). If you're putting beer through plated gear, you're drinking heavy metals.
 
I went with the 4 525SS faucets with stainless shanks and tail pieces. While it may not be necessary, I really like them. One did have the leaking issue, but Todd from Kegconnection had another faucet and shank shipped out the day I called.
 
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