How do I properly reduce keg pressure on store bought kegs

Hello,

I am trying to get my kegerator setup for the first time and am having a hard time with the gas. I have a 5lb co2 tank with a line splitter on the output feeding 2 kegs. I have about 6 feet of beer line attached to each and am getting way too much foam. I also have my tower properly insulated and cooled with a tower cooler. I am not understanding how to properly reduce the keg pressure. The couplers both have a pressure release valve on them as well as one on the regulator just behind the first guage. I am seeing almost 20lbs of pressure which I understand is too much. If I lower the setting on the regulator the needle doesn't move. If I pull the relief valve on the regulator the needle drops to 0 and then moves back to 20. If I pull the relief on the kegs they blow off gas and the needle drops to 0 and stays there. How do I properly set these kegs at 12PSI?? Thanks.

ED7

1) What temp is your fridge?
2) Once you solve this pressure problem, you'll find that 6' is probably too short. I'd suggest 8-10 feet to prevent foamy pours.

As you're discovering, you can't use the regulator to lower the pressure in the keg. The reason the regulator gauge is shooting back up to 20 is because that's what the pressure is in the keg.

Do you have a ball valve on your regulator? I'd disconnect the keg from the gas (if you don't have the ball valve you'll have to un-couple the keg), turn the adjusting screw/knob on the regulator all the way counter clockwise. If the pressure is still reading 20 psi, try pulling the relief valve on your regulator. Once it's at 0 psi, slowly set it back up to 12 psi, then don't touch the knob!

Now when you put the keg back on the gas, the regulator will add CO2 to the keg once the pressure falls below 12 psi. If the gauge reads higher than 12, it means the pressure in the keg is great than 12. If the keg is really overcarbonated (not sure how full it is or how long you had it at 20 psi) you might need to shut off the gas and vent the keg every few hours for the next couple days. And yes, in that case you want to use the relief valve on the coupler.

Thats the thing. If I close the ball valves on my gas line to the kegs I can't keep the regulator from climbing to 60PSI. I close them, turn the dial all the way to 0, pull the relief valve on the CO2 regulator which brings the pressure to 0, then it immediately begins climbing to 60 PSI again...takes less than 2 seconds. That is why I think I have a faulty regulator...its like it can't go less than 60psi even on its lowest setting (with the adjustment know screwed all the way out).

Sorry..also fridge temp is around 38 degrees.

electricd7 said:

Thats the thing. If I close the ball valves on my gas line to the kegs I can't keep the regulator from climbing to 60PSI. I close them, turn the dial all the way to 0, pull the relief valve on the CO2 regulator which brings the pressure to 0, then it immediately begins climbing to 60 PSI again...takes less than 2 seconds. That is why I think I have a faulty regulator...its like it can't go less than 60psi even on its lowest setting (with the adjustment know screwed all the way out).

Click to expand...

Yup, faulty regulator. That sucks. If it's new you can exchange it, or take it apart and clean the diaphragm, or try blasting some CO2 through to get the debris out. If you do that, completely disconnect the tubing, open the regulator all the way (clockwise), and quickly crack the tank valve a few times to pulse gas through. That's worked for a lot of people.