I started working on my new rig today. My plans are going automated but this will be a manual electric rig first and slowly go automated as it drains my wallet. So far i have 3 15.5 sanke kegs, SSR's, 2x 5500w camco elements, 2x 3500w camco elements, 1" locknuts for elements, 120v fan for cooling project box with relays. I have 2" tri clover adapters and 1/2" ss valves on there way from brewershardware, hopefully they come next week.
Today i cut the bottom off one of the pots, this will probably be the HLT because it has the smaller of the 2 lids i have, the larger lid will go on the mash tun for easier cleaning. I made a simple rig with a 2x2, carriage bolt, and hose clamp to cut the perfect circle on the bottom, I cleaned up the hole with a 60 grit flap disc on my angle grinder.
Elements will be 5500W and 3500W in each kettle. This will allow the boil to be maintained with 100% duty cycle on just the 3500W and the 5500W along with the 3500W for faster temp ramping of the HLT and boil kettle. Initially i will have DPDT switches controlling SSR's to swap between which element gets power, later a brew controller. To protect the elements i will have float switches just above the elements hard wired to the SSR's ground leg. I only have 60A main breaker so im limited in amperage (badly need to upgrade my 1971 breaker box). I have been using a similar 9000w setup with great results on a single sanke keg i made (for sale BTW).
My brother has a spray foam gun so plans are to coat the mash tun with 2-3" of closed cell.
This will be a gravity fed system with one pump for HERMS.
Today i cut the bottom off one of the pots, this will probably be the HLT because it has the smaller of the 2 lids i have, the larger lid will go on the mash tun for easier cleaning. I made a simple rig with a 2x2, carriage bolt, and hose clamp to cut the perfect circle on the bottom, I cleaned up the hole with a 60 grit flap disc on my angle grinder.
Elements will be 5500W and 3500W in each kettle. This will allow the boil to be maintained with 100% duty cycle on just the 3500W and the 5500W along with the 3500W for faster temp ramping of the HLT and boil kettle. Initially i will have DPDT switches controlling SSR's to swap between which element gets power, later a brew controller. To protect the elements i will have float switches just above the elements hard wired to the SSR's ground leg. I only have 60A main breaker so im limited in amperage (badly need to upgrade my 1971 breaker box). I have been using a similar 9000w setup with great results on a single sanke keg i made (for sale BTW).
My brother has a spray foam gun so plans are to coat the mash tun with 2-3" of closed cell.
This will be a gravity fed system with one pump for HERMS.