Top 5 tips to make a good extract beer?

What would you guys say are the top five tips to make a good batch of extract beer?

Fresh ingredients

Full boil

Proper yeast pitching rate

Proper fermentation temperature (not ambien temp, actual fermentation temperature)

~2+ weeks in the fermenter, ~3+ weeks in the bottle

AZ_IPA said:

Fresh ingredients

Full boil

Proper yeast pitching rate

Proper fermentation temperature (not ambien temp, actual fermentation temperature)

~2+ weeks in the fermenter, ~3+ weeks in the bottle

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I would agree with AZ_IPA and add the obvious sanitize everything phrase...

Yeast (quality - no Munton's!)
Yeast (fermentation temperature control)
Yeast (pitching rate)
Yeast (proper wort aeration/oxygenation)
Yeast.

Seriously. After my first batch using crap Munton's yeast and not knowing anything about yeast, all of my research on making a better batch of beer has gone back to yeast in some way. Proper yeast management is more important than switching to all-grain.

Late additions for the extract for lighter, less caramelized beer...

VampireSix said:

Yeast (quality - no Munton's!)
Yeast (fermentation temperature control)
Yeast (pitching rate)
Yeast (proper wort aeration/oxygenation)
Yeast.

Seriously. After my first batch using crap Munton's yeast and not knowing anything about yeast, all of my research on making a better batch of beer has gone back to yeast in some way. Proper yeast management is more important than switching to all-grain.

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Interesting you say this. The first batch I did from Midwest came with the Munton's yeast and so far that's the only one of my 4 batches that is bottled and ready to go. I've always detected something wrong with it but couldn't put my finger on it.

Upthewazzu said:

The first batch I did from Midwest came with the Munton's yeast ...I've always detected something wrong with it but couldn't put my finger on it.

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Yea spend the extra $1 to upgrade to a better dry yeast (fermentis, safale, danstar). The option is on the order screen at Midwest's website.

midfielder5 said:

Yea spend the extra $1 to upgrade to a better dry yeast (fermentis, safale, danstar). The option is on the order screen at Midwest's website.

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Yep, I've been doing that on the last 3 I've made (liquid, liquid, US-05) but the first kit was a gift from my parent's so I didn't' have a say in that one. Unfortunately, they aren't ready yet

Being an inexperienced extract brewer myself (6 brews under my belt) but having picked the brain of my quite knowledgable all-grain brewing neighbor, I'd recommend a yeast starter so that your good guys beat whatever is floating around in your home atmosphere to metabolization of the sugars.

If that's "pitch rate", then I only proved my inexperience.

My Top 6 Tips are:

1. Fermentation control is the most important. Keep your beer at the correct temp to avoid off flavors. It doesn't have to be expensive. Swamp coolers work, cold basements, anything that keeps the temp constant and within the working range for your yeast strain.

2. Fresh Ingredients (extract, hops, yeast, steeping grains)

3. Use only pale or extra pale extract since those are made from base 2-row (or marris otter from Northern Brewer), and use steeping grains or partial mash to get the color and other flavors that you want. This was a good tip from Chris Graham I think on an old episode of The Sunday Session that I recently listened to. His point was that using an amber or darker extract puts you at the mercy of the extract maker with regards to flavor since you have no idea what malts went into the extract. Using extract made from base grain will help ensure that you get the exact flavor profile from your beer.

4. Late extract addition. This prevents extra caramalization of the extract, reduces extract twang, and increases hop utilization.

5. Full boil. A small but high quality pot can cost the same as a cheap but large pot. Spend the extra money and start off with a pot large enough for full 5 gallon boils especially if you have the room for it. You will probably need to get a propane burner too, but it is so worth it.

6. Pitch the right amount of yeast.

Bonus: Proper sanitization is important to all kinds of brewing.

worxman02 said:

My Top 6 Tips

4. Late extract addition. This prevents extra caramalization of the extract, reduces extract twang, and increases hop utilization.

6. Pitch the right amount of yeast.

Bonus: Proper sanitization is important to all kinds of brewing.

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Can you clarify the process of late extract addition? Would this mean I might add my buttering hops at 60 min but my extract well after that?

How does one know the right amount of yeast to add? I've started making yeast starters a day before. They're 4cups of water and 1cup of my malt extract.

Thanks!

Consistency - this is the most important thing. Set a process and follow it, making improvements when necessary. Anyone can brew a great beer once. A great home brewer can brew the same good beer 5+ times over.

Brewing Software (I find it useful for analyzing my brews and keeping a journal for revisions of recipes.)

Fresh, quality ingredients

Wyeast or White labs. - I've used dry yeast also and always get better results with liquid yeast and yeast starters.

Steep temp control - I've ruined a couple batches early on by being too impatient getting my water to temp before steeping, resulting in bad nasties from accidentally steeping too high.

The more you brew the better you'll get.

I wouldn't worry about late extract additions so much. I know some people swear by them but I manager to make high quality brew consistently and always add at 60 mins. Also AG brewers boil the wort for the full boil. If you make your extract additions correctly without letting any burn on the bottom, should be no different. Plus this makes theory crafting extract brews a bit less complicated.

KYchemBrewer said:

Can you clarify the process of late extract addition? Would this mean I might add my buttering hops at 60 min but my extract well after that?

How does one know the right amount of yeast to add? I've started making yeast starters a day before. They're 4cups of water and 1cup of my malt extract.

Thanks!

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late extract add is when you add 20-30% of your extract at the beginning of the boil then add the rest at 15 mins (which is all the time extract needs to caramelize). careful when using kits because hop amounts are given to you assuming a full extract boil and less sugar in your wort will most definitely affect your hop utilization.

If making your own recipe be sure to use brewing software to make the necessary adjustments to your hop schedule to hit your target flavor / ibu's

From the Mr. Malty web site:

The general consensus on pitching rates is that you want to pitch around 1 million cells of viable yeast, for every milliliter of wort, for every degree plato. A little less for an ale, a little more for a lager. George Fix states about 1.5 million for a lager and 0.75 million for an ale in his book, An Analysis of Brewing Techniques. Other literature cites a slightly higher amount. I'm going with Fix's numbers and that is what the pitching calculator uses.

You can use the pitching calculator to determine what you need for your batch of beer.

http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html

KYchemBrewer said:

Can you clarify the process of late extract addition? Would this mean I might add my buttering hops at 60 min but my extract well after that?

How does one know the right amount of yeast to add? I've started making yeast starters a day before. They're 4cups of water and 1cup of my malt extract.

Thanks!

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late extract add is when you add 20-30% of your extract at the beginning of the boil then add the rest at 15 mins (which is all the time extract needs to caramelize). careful when using kits because hop amounts are given to you assuming a full extract boil and less sugar in your wort will most definitely affect your hop utilization.

If making your own recipe be sure to use brewing software to make the necessary adjustments to your hop adjustments to hit your target flavor / ibu's

Thank you all!

So far I've been trying different recipes and rather happy with he results. Time to try repeating some.

Might be time time to buy a brewing software.

And I'm excited to have that Mr Malty site as a good excuse to put off grading papers tonight.

if you dont want to pay for brewing software, brewtoad has a rudimentary but functional system. If you have 20 bucks and really want to get sciency pick up beersmith. I did and never looked back.

The first commandment of home brew is this: thou shalt clean and sanitize everything that will come into contact with your beer post boil. The second is like unto it, thou shalt control thy fermentation temperatures.

Ain't no full boil, software, or starter of healthy liquid yeast gonna make a difference if you ferment a beer at 75 degrees in a contaminated carboy.

After that, fresh ingredients, healthy pitch, and a good, patient attitude.

Ain't no full boil, software, or starter of healthy liquid yeast gonna make a difference if you ferment a beer at 75 degrees in a contaminated carboy.

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I feel like this is saying "aint none uh dat der fancy crap gunna help if yer not doin er right."

Taking steps to improve your brew quality and skill as a brewer wont matter if you crap in the carboy either, but that it pretty irrelevant as well.

Assuming you can an have actually brewed a drinkable batch, everything you just disregarded are things that will help to add consistency and improve the quality of your beer.

Sanitation
Quality ingredients
Pitch the right amount of yeast
Ferment at the right temp and a consistent temp
Patience

I am glad some one finally said patience. IMHO It is the most difficult variable to control

In order of importance, in my opinion:
Sanitation
Fermentation temperature control (including proper pitching temperature of 62-66 degrees for ales)
Healthy yeast (pitching the proper amount of quality healthy yeast)
Quality ingredients (fresh, no canned prehopped stuff)
Water (no chlorine or chloramines, and good water)

techbrewie said:

Taking steps to improve your brew quality and skill as a brewer wont matter if you crap in the carboy either, but that it pretty irrelevant as well.

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I think that would fall under sanitation.

I get what you are saying. At some point it will get so basic as to be silly (don't forget to add water!). But the first thing an experienced brewer told me when I started brewing was that if I paid attention to sanitation, I could make some good beer. Sanitation and fermentation temps are how you get past 20 on a score sheet. I want to get into the 30s myself, and that takes some additional skill. But these two things are so fundamental that they have to be on the top of the list.