If I move up from 15 gallon batches I am going pressurizable conical. I would love to have a 40 gallon.
WortMonger said:If I move up from 15 gallon batches I am going pressurizable conical. I would love to have a 40 gallon.
The sweet thing about using a Sanke tap connector is the built in tap pressure relief. I really like that the Brewhemoth was tested to such high pressures. Gives me hope for a conical in my future maybe.
Curious as to if you mean only good because of their rating, or if it has something to do with the way they are shaped and the yeast?
Show me where I can get 55G stainless barrels for a hundred bucks. Please.
Hi folks-
I have been unable to find any literature or whatnot to help me figure out what the proper technique for depressurizing a vessel that has pressurized yeast in it after a pressure ferment with the point being to not decrease viability. Be it to 15 PSI or all the way up to 30+ PSI at ale temps.
I guess I'm sort of looking for the least amount of time I have to bleed off with my spunding valve in order to get back to regular atmospheres without being too fast to destroy cell walls and kill yeast. Guess I'm looking for something like .. -1 PSI every 20 mins, etc...
Anyone have any literature they can point me to. Nothing on the Wyeast or White Labs site that I can find that refers to it.
I've got two 5 gallon pressurized batches going in cornys right now.. one regular, one sanke.. I had to switch to a blowoff because the fermentation was out of control..I'll crank up the pressure tomorrow !
So I'm wondering, when I move this to a serving keg - if I cool to 32 and then move with CO2, does all of the trub not go with it ??
Hey Wortmonger,
Quick question, why do you reinstall the beer check ball to the coupler once you're done pumping in your wort?
Honestly, that sounds really dangerous. You need to get new snap rings, or fix the problem that is causing that to happen. You're working with a loaded gun.
I haven't yet tried a p-fermented beer (I just made a spunding valve, can't wait!). However, My last 2 beers were fermented in Corny kegs with a blow off tube.
I was thinking of trying to serve from the original keg, but I am skeptical it would work. Have you ever served from the same keg the beer was fermented in? I've read the whole thread, but that was a while ago, and my memory is fuzzy.
Also, if I were to transfer it to a serving keg (I'll need to get another one if I do..) how would you recommend I transfer as little yeast/trub as possible (beyond cooling it to 31-35˚?
Have you ever served from the same keg the beer was fermented in?
Also, if I were to transfer it to a serving keg (I'll need to get another one if I do..) how would you recommend I transfer as little yeast/trub as possible (beyond cooling it to 31-35˚?
So I complained at first about pressurized fermentation, but now that I'm drinking a 10 day old APA, I'm in love.... I wonder how you handle dry hopping though, I have an IPA recipe thats a hit, but it required 7 day dry hop in the secondary.
Right now I'm using a 20oz paintball tank to carb, so I'm fairly careful with it, and after fermentation was finished at 30 psi, I chilled to 32, depressurized, autosiphoned to a serving keg, and tossed in a double hop bagged 2oz of pellets... 4 days later and it tastes like hop skittles, is cloudy and has a ton of hop particles floating around ... Should i let it settle and rerack ??
I know a filter would solve this Just to poor after my new brew stand and TIG welded keggle
muse435, you transferred from secondary to primary? I assume it is the other way around. I am unable to answer without more definitive information, but if the beer was done or almost done fermenting and you are losing pressure then you have a leak. If it is newly fermenting wort... it can take a few days sometimes to show any pressure due to the wort absorbing the CO2. It just depends. Let me know more information and I can help you better.