Um, having to refill the HLT whenever you pump water from it to keep the element submerged. Remembering to turn off the element when you transfer from the HLT so that you dont start the cooler on fire... etc.
Sounds like a job for yet another thermocouple and control cycle.
hard solder or hose clamp a TC to the element/s when element temps go above some number kill the power
A float switch to lockout the element would be the most practical solution.
I'm pretty sure they can be bent to a certain degree.
I bent my 5500w ULD element from Plumbing warehouse a bit with no issue. They are pretty cheap if you break one.
I've been thinking along the very same lines as a couple people now who've built CB20s have burned up their elements by letting the kettle run dry. If anyone comes across an inexpensive, but reliable liquid sensor that can handle boiling temps, I'd love a ping.
Would something like this work?a float switch is still the best and closest to bullet proof configuration.
I would rather use one of these non mechanical units.
http://content.honeywell.com/sensing/prodinfo/LiquidLevel/datasheets/100437_3_en_w.pdf
You would then have to drive a small dpdt relay so you can isolate the two signals. One to the SSR, the other to the BCS.
This is the one I'm using in my HLT.
Jason; i've been told the stainless version goes for $145, not a clue on the plastic ones that are rated to176*F.
My only question would be foam causing a false trigger or lack of.
Those toilet flushing units look like they belong in a 1900's oak WC not a brewery.
Aww, c'mon Brew, these aren't that bad . They're simple and do work, and they're cheep. I can replace mine 11 times for the price of one of the optical ones. I did say that I'd be careful before using one in a BK because of the teensy tiny hinge they use (easy to gum up with sticky wort), and I don't know that I will use one when I convert my BK to electric this fall, but I also don't know that I could justify $150 for an optical sensor unless I wanted to go full auto. As long as I homebrew I will never go full auto. Brewing is as much art as it is science, and I just can't fathom taking a complete hands-off approach. Sorry for the ramble, but I'm really enjoying the Stone sampler pack from Costco tonight . Funny that I move away from SD right before it becomes one of the biggest brewing meccas in the country :sigh:
MrH
Like The Pol said: Some can be bent. You just need to be careful. I had a camco high density 3500w element that I tried to bend and it shattered. There was ceramic inside the element and it just snapped.
The Pol and some other people have gotten other styles to bend with no problems. I bent my 5500w ULD element from Plumbing warehouse a bit with no issue. They are pretty cheap if you break one.
Some ceramic packed elements have straight elements and others have spiral elements. Theoretically spiral elements may tolerate bending even in a ceramic pack because you are just sort of straightening out the spiral a tad while cracking the ceramic into powder. Which of course should shorten the life of the element because they don't have particularly good hysteresis. Or stated another way, they have a poor modulus of elasticity.
Is there any reason I couldn't mount the element horizontally instead of vertically?Yes, IMHO it is always nice to have the element require as little water as possible so that you do not need to have a large water contingency in the HLT to submerge it.
Hey Pol,
This is probobly a dumb question but I've asked worse. Does each Element need its own PID or can one PID control multiple elements?
Thanks
Hey Pol,
This is probobly a dumb question but I've asked worse. Does each Element need its own PID or can one PID control multiple elements?
Thanks
Only dumb in as much as I doubt he will answer. The PID activates a relay so it is the relay that determines the load.
SSRs are relays
Thanks Guys,
So if I understand correctly one PID can operate at least to SSR hooked up to two elements independently.
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