walk me through setting up some taps...

I think I'm ready to hook up some taps on my beer fridge. Been just using picnic taps, it's time to do it right. Going to go through the side, not the door (gotta have freezer access, that's where all the hops are ).

So, I have all the kegs and CO2 gear, have my manifold all built and installed. I'll be able to fit either four or five kegs in there, but I'll just start with one tap and go from there. I'm starting on the side and working my way inway, not centering them on the side.

So, it is as simple as getting:

Faucet (I know, drop the coin on forward sealing - unless someone has some old ones they want to sell me cheap ).
Shank (does the facuet screw directly into the shank?)
Tail piece
Beer nut
Neoprene beer washer

Anything else I need? I'll have to get some more tubing, I have a ton of clamps and disconncects... is that all I need? Drill a hole in the fridge, insert the shank, screw on the faucet, attach the tail piece with the beer nut and the washer, hook up the beer line, and I'm set? I'll need to fashion a drip tray of some sort... anything else I'm not thinking about?

Make sure you fully open the valve on your Co2 tank, then use the dial on the regulator to get to the desired pressure. Use 6ft of 3/16ID beer line even if you dont need that much, it will help with foaming issues. Make a list of things to buy for the future upgrades

1) Gas manifold 3 or 4 way
2) More shanks
3) More vent-matics

HAVE FUN. Kegging rocks!

Well, I have the manifold. But, do I have the rest of the process down?

Just passing along info I heard and helped me. Watch out about drilling holes in the side of the frig. They have hoses which carry essential stuff for the frig and puncturing them will ruin your frig. I just drilled a hole for my gas line and basically took a chance with a small hole and fished around in there to make sure I wouldn't ruin anything.

My LHBS told me about how to find the hoses and I think it went like this: Get the appliance to room temp them put a bucket of steamy water in the frig and turn it on. Supposedly in a couple minutes condensation will show you where the lines are. Not sure if you knew this already. I just finished my first keg so I'm still learning.

Drilled a hole over the weekend to run my gas in. I started on the inside, once I was through the plastic, I rooted around to see if anything was in the way before proceeding. Good to go.

The tail piece, washer, and nut are only if you are using sanke kegs. The shanks should have a hose attachment built on.

Vermicous said:

The tail piece, washer, and nut are only if you are using sanke kegs. The shanks should have a hose attachment built on.

Click to expand...

See, that's why I'm confused:



Can't see the backside, but it *looks* like I'd need to attach one of these bad boys...

I have the shanks that require a tailpiece and nut. I think that's more common than the all in one. If those are NB, bird, then your initial thoughts are correct.

Do you have a faucet wrench? Surprisingly handy. Especially if your faucets are under torqued... = beer shower.

I picked up the cheap shanks from www.superprod.com that have the hose nipple brazed in (or machined) but in any case I didn't need the tail piece and nut.

olllllo said:

I have the shanks that require a tailpiece and nut. I think that's more common than the all in one. If those are NB, bird, then your initial thoughts are correct.

Do you have a faucet wrench? Surprisingly handy. Especially if your faucets are under torqued... = beer shower.

Click to expand...

Ditto on all the above, I was trying to use channel lock pliers on mine until I got the wrench. It's well worth the cost..... And my shanks also required a nut/tailpiece and use good beverage line, I used Black 3/16th on mine and it pours great...

I bought shanks that had welded nipples on them from Midwest. You can go either way I believe.

OK, this is all starting to make sense. Bobby, thanks for that link, looks like I just need to figger out if I need a 3" or a 4" shank (too long can't hurt, right?). Just going through the side of a fridge, prolly an inch and a half thick. Anyone swap out faucets recently and have some old ones they'd sell/trade cheap? I've been spending too much beer money lately, not that I can't afford it, but marital discord will be kept at a minimum if I can do this as cheaply as possible for now.

If you haven't already purchased the parts, Micromatic has shanks with nipples already installed.

That's where I got my shanks.

Also. I'd advise rigging up some sort of drip tray…unless you want the ole bucket-on-the-floor set up like I had.

Lowe’s sells SS spackling trays that are 14” long. That and 4-5 strong magnets and you have a decent drip tray.

the_bird said:

OK, this is all starting to make sense. Bobby, thanks for that link, looks like I just need to figger out if I need a 3" or a 4" shank (too long can't hurt, right?). Just going through the side of a fridge, prolly an inch and a half thick. Anyone swap out faucets recently and have some old ones they'd sell/trade cheap? I've been spending too much beer money lately, not that I can't afford it, but marital discord will be kept at a minimum if I can do this as cheaply as possible for now.

Click to expand...

Bird, PM me your address I might have some I will donate to the cause...

Brewiz said:

Bird, PM me your address I might have some I will donate to the cause...

Click to expand...

Let's work out some kind of swap, so it's win-win.

Personally I like the shanks without the nipple and using a tail piece/beer nut. My reason is that when it is time to replace the hose you can disconnect it and work on it at your workbench instead of having to work inside your fridge. Granted, your not going to do it that often but since your shanks will be in the side rather than the door it will be a bit easier.

the_bird said:

OK, this is all starting to make sense. Bobby, thanks for that link, looks like I just need to figger out if I need a 3" or a 4" shank (too long can't hurt, right?).

Click to expand...

Seeing as how the excess will be within a chilled space, it seems to me the greater mass of a longer shank could actually be helpful to prevent foaming. I'd go with the longer one, so long as it doesn't physically interfere with anything inside.

BierMuncher said:

Lowe’s sells SS spackling trays that are 14” long. That and 4-5 strong magnets and you have a decent drip tray.


View attachment 3312

Click to expand...

That looks like a great idea. I was searching for trays today and was just floored at their cost. I was hoping for something to be able to rest the pint on, but if I save some $$$ I may go your route. Where'd you get the magnets?

BlindLemonLars said:

Seeing as how the excess will be within a chilled space, it seems to me the greater mass of a longer shank could actually be helpful to prevent foaming. I'd go with the longer one, so long as it doesn't physically interfere with anything inside.

Click to expand...

It's a standard, top-freezer fridge, so I'll mount them as high as I can in the fridge part so that they're at a reasonable, standing height outside. Won't be in the way.

Didn't someone fashion a drip tray from a soap dish or something from Bed Bath & Beyond?

Bird, here ya go



And I've got to show off mine..

Sweetness! Thanks!

I've got some beer to pack up (I know, there's a few other folks I owe beer to, as well... all out this week...)

Kilted Brewer said:

That looks like a great idea. I was searching for trays today and was just floored at their cost. I was hoping for something to be able to rest the pint on, but if I save some $$$ I may go your route. Where'd you get the magnets?

Click to expand...

Magnets came from Lowe’s too.

Over in the hardware / fastener department. I got four, but should have gotten more. It kinds slides because the surface of the freezer is so slick. Eventually I’ll bet some steel brackets and bend them to the right angle and fasten them to the wood. Then I’ll set the tray on those using the magnets.

I don’t want to hard-fasten the tray itself. I’m always pouring junk out of that thing. I keep about ¼ inch of water in the bottom.

I bet you could get a bit of perforated SS and set it on top of the drip tray. Maybe bend the edges 90° so it stayed in place. Paint the tray a nice color... maybe just glossy black. Not sure it would be strong enough to hold a full pint, but it might class it up a wee bit.... wait a minute, I'm talking to BierMuncher, ain't I?

the_bird said:

...but it might class it up a wee bit.... wait a minute, I'm talking to BierMuncher, ain't I?

Click to expand...

Function over form baby...function over form...

BierMuncher said:

... It kinds slides because the surface of the freezer is so slick. ...

Click to expand...

What about using sticky-backed Velcro strips?

the_bird said:

I bet you could get a bit of perforated SS and set it on top of the drip tray. Maybe bend the edges 90° so it stayed in place. Paint the tray a nice color... maybe just glossy black. Not sure it would be strong enough to hold a full pint, but it might class it up a wee bit.... wait a minute, I'm talking to BierMuncher, ain't I?

Click to expand...

Why not drill a fitting into the bottom of the mud pan, I mean Drip Tray, run a line of tubing into hidden container.

Jay