southpawbrew
Well-Known Member
I sent them the wiring schematic. I am going to call them on Monday and hopefully clear this up
With the wall transformer the ssr triggered and powered the element outlet.If anything, just disconnect the PID completely and use a wall transformer power supply to trigger the SSR. If the element turns on, the problem is on the DC side.
Did this and no go. This time there was no ouput power reading from the multi-meter coming from the PID to the SSRAttach the PID back but straight to the SSR control line, if it has a manual function use that to turn it on. If that works take one more step closer to the final wiring.
Not familiar with a 5.6k pull down resistor is. This would be used on which side of the SSR? The power side coming from the PID or the output side coming out of the SSR to the element outlet?The DIM Led sounds like something is floating, perhaps a 5.6k pull down resistor across the + and - terminals of the relay would fix this.
I completely elemented the breaking of the + with the alarm. Both in the wiring and the setting in the PID. Same problems still exist.I am guessing that breaking the + side with the alarm contact has something to do with this. Doesn't explain where the potential is coming from though.
I agree. Any chance of getting a parts list of connectors, receptacles and the mesh wrap you used?POWER!
These are the cords I built for power in and element power. 12AWG stranded, protected with PET weave, heat shrunk ends, and 20 amp plugs.
sexy....
I am actually going with 24qt stainless stock pots now. I will update everything soon. I love the kegs, but am going to go with stock pots to try something different.
You could do this build with a flat bottom kettle and suppliment the heating power with your stove. I think that is a cool idea...
Great to hear from an inspiration!!!
For those unaware jkarp is the mastermind of 120VAC for e-brewing.
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The PID uses an RTD that I will be able to move around. Each vessel will have a thermowell in
the sightglass base. Each sight glass will be assembled like this:
with one of these
threaded into the connection instead of the plug.
I will also have a thermowell for monitoring liquid temp through the heat exchangers:
Brewers Hardware, LLC. :: Warning
The thermowells as well as a ton of other stuff are all coming from HBT member Derrin ala
So I will be able to check temps wherever I want. Or at least that is the idea. I will also have
two analog thermos sticking through the lids down into the mash/boil.
You can't switch between 2 sensors because the switch will alter the current in the wire for an accurate reading. However you could get 2 probes from auber with the twist lock configuration and just switch the the to the sensor you wish to get a reading from and have a switch on the box from bk to rims or herms to tell it which element to control
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