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  1. C

    Sanke, don't cut top off

    I have not cheap stainless nuts in 1/2" and 1"and ground a radius in to one side with a dremel, then silver soldered them over a whole drilled in a keg. You don't need access to the inside to do that.
  2. C

    WTB: 2.5-3 gallon keg.

    Not sure what it would cost to ship them from Colorado to Mass, but I have some 3 gallon pin lock legs I would be willing to sell for 45 each.
  3. C

    My low tech brew rig

    I like it! I actually had a very similar one that I sold because I was moving. I am building a similar one again right now with drain and return ports added. If you don't mind my asking what element areyou using? My old system was a 44qt pot just like the bayou classic ones with a 2kw...
  4. C

    Testing stove boiling power for first all-grain

    If the surface is being turned over you are good, the only reason for a boil is to constant mix the volume and turn the surface over to Sid volatilization of ect. You can even accomplish that with a pump and hold at 1-2 degrees below boiling if you wanted to (I think that is what a Pico brew...
  5. C

    Non-conical bottom drain fermenter

    How did this work?
  6. C

    BIAB with higher finishing gravities

    yep, especially with finer crush used by most BIAB brewers the mash is 90% or more complete before the beta amylase is denatured to significant levels even at relatively high temps.
  7. C

    FYI: You can brew on 120v

    I have boiled over 9 gallons preboil in my ekettle that uses a single 2000 W element. it took a considerable amount of time but it worked just fine.
  8. C

    my small footprint 110volt-1500watt system

    I like that one a lot! might have to copy it! what size batches are you doing?
  9. C

    Does this look right to you?

    Looks just fine to me the layers are (bottom to top) trub (hot break ect that made it through your screen) then wort with yeast/cold break and at the top clear wort (where the yeast and cold break have settled out. At least that is what it looks like to me. It will all mix up during active...
  10. C

    DIY FasterFerment in Corny Super Awesome Never Rack Again KAPOW!

    if you are already packaging in kegs why not just take the time and effort you would put in to making the special lid and stand and just get an extra corny and cut the dip tube an inch or so short. Ferment in there then transfer under pressure to a serving keg, then all you would need was a...
  11. C

    False Bottom or Manifold for Bottom Draining Converted Keg MLT

    another strike against the manifold in a keg is that the bottom is not flat. It is my experience that manifolds only function well if the slits/holes are against the bottom of the vessel (talk to any one who has installed one upside down in a cooler). They will clog in a hurry if the openings...
  12. C

    Electric BIAB, no pump, no element guard

    I have done both, element touch the bag and with the bag contained in a basket. No problems either way just less to clean if you leave the basket out.
  13. C

    Electric BIAB, no pump, no element guard

    I do have some experience but without the controller. I just stir while heating for mash steps, it works just fine. Not sure how useful the controller will be with out constant stirring or recerculation. The temps do stratify very quickly if I don't keep up stirring. But like I said I haven't...
  14. C

    How to ferment 7.5gal batches

    yep that is just what I was going to suggest, that and a little fermcap s.
  15. C

    Designing a 2.5 gal rig

    okay so if you are using a separate boil kettle you could heat your water strike water there. that way the HLT only needs to hold sparge water. so for a 2.5 gallon batch i doubt you will spare with more than 2 gallons ever but lets say 3 to be on the safe side, then you have mashtun volume of...
  16. C

    Designing a 2.5 gal rig

    If you are going to go for surface area as your means of heat transfer (no herms coil), you are going to want to size the containers carefully so that you do not end up heat way to much sparge water just keep the mashtun in contact. I think any benefits from that set up might be outweighed by...
  17. C

    Rocket Fuel

    My advice would be increase pitch rate, use lots of O2 and nutrient. Also ferment as cold as possible without stalling ferment for the first few days at least, this will reduce ester production as well as keeping the yeast from spreading the nutrient reserves and membrane components to thin...
  18. C

    The woes of a 120v brewer

    This is almost exactly what I do. I have actually gone back and forth between this and using the same system to do a full volume mash BIAB, but that actually takes longer because you have to heat the full volume of water before you can mash in. Still haven't decided is my favorite. but no...
  19. C

    Bringing Costs Down...

    to get rid of cloramine and chloromide that cause off flavors in beer.
  20. C

    So I'm brewing an all-rye beer today...

    I have made an all rye beer before, it had about the consistency maple syrup when it was fermented out, and that is after a long glucanase rest. It took maybe a month after fermentation for the yeast to mostly settle out (never did completely). I made a small batch and lautered it through a...
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