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Thanks for the input. Since it soured in the barrel a bit I don't think it fits into the wood category on its own. Hence why I was thinking 28C wild ale (you are correct on the above edit I put the wrong category). However, because of the wood quality I don't think it fits that well into 28C...

Yeah thanks I saw that last night... looked pretty intense on the spam.

Hey, Curious is anyone had some helpful input on what style I should enter this beer in? This was a brew which we didn't mean to go sour in the barrel but it did unfortunately. The brew was a 2nd use Bourbon Barrel and the first beer in there was a Curieux clone which was only in there for...

I know this isn't helpful but I have a container of fragrance free damprid in mine which works pretty well.

I would recommend purging with C02 right after you dry hop if you can. Dry hopping when there still is active fermentation could cause C02 scrubbing which would reduce it's effectiveness. Also some types of yeast can bind to hop compounds when they drop out which can reduce the effectiveness of...

yes it's that easy! One thing to be wary of that I am aware of is that some breweries use a different yeast to bottle vs what they ferment with. This is usually done on proprietary strains and I have heard of it being more common with Belgian beers

If the maple syrup is food grade do you really need to sanitize it by heating? I know it's a best practice just curious... This is really interesting and cool by the way! I was wondering if any of the maple flavor bleeds over into the beer?

I have a 5gal tank and I probably get about 4 to 6 keg carbonation and dispenses out of it. I also use C02 for transferring and I usually bottle out of kegs so that is what makes it vary. I also need to get better about using all of the C02 in the tank as I usually refill it before it's...

I really hated throwing pounds of grain away in the garbage can. I put a post on craigslist about free grains and someone who lives near me and owns chickens responded. I just let them know the day before brew day and they come by and get them.

That looks like a pellicle to me, no yeast rafts. How does it smell?

I also use the measuring method which is measure the boil kettle with a tape measure and then figure out how many IN are equal to a gallon. Then you can measure from the top and subtract

+1 to yes you can!

I have a plastic spoon I made markings on

I would put a blow off tube on now and/or for future beers. Cleaning krausen off the ceiling is no fun

Thanks Cegan, this is helpful

Curious about this style. Is the large % of flaked grain in the mash how you get that body and cloudiness in the beer? I live close to cellermaker in CA and they make killer NE style beers and I was wondering how they get that profile. I figured that it was flaked grain but in some minimal...

I haven't done this with the sugar addition but on darker beers I have tried taking the first gallon of runoff and boiling it down to syrup (basically a gallon to about a quart or less) it takes some effort but I really like how it makes beers turn out. Had a brown I did this with that kicked...

yes some yeasts are more top fermenters. Do you have a pic? Might be helpful...

I would just say leave it on the liquid until you want to use it. The more you open it up and transfer it around the more chance of something unwanted getting in

I think most folks would advise against drilling into the unit. As porter said just build a collar and drill into that. There are a lot of DIY instructions on how to do that. I am also curious about the temp probe. On mine I have an analogue probe that's on a copper wire. I just draped it over...