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So here's what I ended up brewing: Est. OG: 1.075 IBUs: 22.4 Color: 24.8 SRM 9lbs Munich 4.25lbs Vienna .5lbs Carafa II Single Infusion @ 156* 1.5oz Tettnang - FW .5oz Tettnang - 15 min. WLP833 German Bock Lager OG - 1.076 (Measured) I'll let ya'll know how it turns out in a couple months.

Well last night i had planned on bottling a 12 pack for different purposes but in the process of filling the first bottle i killed the keg. :-( i had made a super tasty Indian brown ale that lasted only a week.

I do fly sparge myself, but I don't see why after draining your tun completely first then adding your sparge water (168*-170*) to batch sparge and effectively control your draining to last as long as you can (50-60 min.) could be bad. Thats the goal with sparging: to rinse as much sugars off the...

It generally takes a pretty fast flow to get that kind of suction to give you a stuck sparge, but rule of thumb is that you want your sparge to last about 60 min. to effectively rinse as much as possible. So that would be a very restricted out flow from your tun.

Fireman's number 4. One of my favorite super drinkable beers.

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+1

Howdy, A friend wants me to brew an Optimator Clone for him. I've written up a recipe for it. Let me know what ya'll think. The spaten site says the OG is 18.2 Plato which equals a 1.075, so I aimed for that. Spaten optimator was the first beer that really got me enjoying great beers. And...

Another couple good tips for preventing a stuck sparge: 1. When you're drawing off your wort to your Boil Kettle, restrict your flow. The more flow, the more suction you're creating which will pull your grain bed down more compact and thus create a stuck sparge. 2. I would only use rice hulls...

I'll see you guys at the Addison Oktoberfest this weekend! Gonna be a blast!

wow! Awesome find! Good Luck with your brew! Sorry I don't know much about those ingredients, but I am interested to know how everything goes.

Ugh. That's awful. Almost defeats the purpose of a kegerator. Better bring multiple glasses or bottles back right?

hahaha "Home Brewing - You're doing it wrong"

How fast does everyone go through their batches of home brew assuming you're not aging it for a really long time? I find me with my home brewing buddies will go through a corny keg of brew in about 2 weeks on average. The worst/best case was a week.

Can't you just insulate your keggle MT? Or are y'all losing 2 degrees per half hour with your mash tun already insulated? Im just curious because i plan on using a keggle for a MT in the near future.

No, just make sure you poor out the wort that you made the starter with first and when it gets cloudy stop and pitch the rest. This is of course after the yeasties have already multiplied and settled out on the bottom of your vessel. The off flavors come from the wort that you used to make...

I siphon the wort through... I have a pond pump to pump the ice water through the chiller and back. The thing i took away from this thread was to find a way to keep the wort recirculating longer before letting it into the carboy. Maybe using tap water first and when it gets cool enough add ice...

You definitely want your yeast to be in the very close neighborhood of temperature as what you're pitching into. Yes.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/keg-keg-transfer-267574/

looks like that works really well. When I'm done with my 10 gallon build I'm definitely going to use an immersion chiller instead of my counter flow chiller ( the counter flow is a DIY one thats only about 25ft coiled) Thx all for the input in this thread, it's got me thinking about a couple...