Search results

Yes, Brettanomyces for example ferments sugars that cannot be fermented by saccharomyces. So it is very common for bottles infected at bottling time to be over-carbonated, and/or explode

I like flars method. One way is to drop the yeast first. But a lot of new england brewers add the dry hop at about day 7 or so. Actually, a lot of NE brewers add two doses of dry hops. I like to estimate the date I think it will be done, and add the hops 3-4 days before that. If there is still...

Maybe it was "Home Beermaking by Brian Leverett" I will buy a used copy amd check it out. Thanks all for your help.

Good stuff! Thanks for the help!

Does anyone know of a good list of homebrew books? Particularly old books from 1970s and 1980s. I have been searching Google and Amazon without much luck. My first intro to homebrewing was a book from the library in about 1991. I don't remember what it was, but I would love to find that book...

Thanks for the Beersmith tip! I have been looking for a carbonation chart, but they all stop at 65F. But my conditioning temperature normally is in the 70s.

He went with a more traditional 3 vessel system from Stout. They had the room for it, and they are very happy.

Was it purchased, or coming out of storage? I have had trouble with that yeast dying off in storage. If purchased, curious what was the date? 24 hours is a long time for that little starter.

Sounds like you sipped out of the can for a while before you decided to harvest yeast out of it? This sounds unsanitary. Try this next time: 1. clean the can. 2. wipe down the lip with alcohol or sanitizer, 3. Pour out your beer 4. Add wort and swirl to mix 5. Pour it into a small bottle...

Disclaimer - I did not read it all. I just want to mention what threw me off: Make sure you check the volumes tab after scaling. Particularly the deadspace volume.

Good job! I love the Spike slogan "Your liver will fail before our equipment does"! I wonder if you will spill stuff on your bins every time you brew. (under the table)

I was always a bit wary of attenuation numbers. I always thought attenuation was more a function of yeast health combined with fermentability of the sugars. I am guessing if I used this yeast on pure honey, I could get FG down to 1.000.

OK, Chris00, Here is how I measured: The OG was read two or three times with a temperature compensating refractometer. the FG was read with the refractometer(1.031), and converted (1.012). then also read with a hydrometer (1.010)to compare. Just for accuracy sake, I just read FG again with...

Old thread, I know. But I just want to throw in my case. I just brewed an IPA with wyeast northwest ale 1332 OG=1.067, FG=1.010 attenuation = 84% Fermented under 68F ramped up to 71F All grain, plus 1lb cane sugar per 9 gallon batch. First keg tastes a bit boozy (vodka?) We will see if the...

Well, I learned something. I knew a raspberry pi could do it, but, that's news. Tech is cool. I am an engineer by education, software developer by trade, and when I saw the BCS, I said to myself- way more cost effective to buy, rather than code. No, I don't work for them.

I just had a visitor view my E-panel. He is looking to do similar in a college class. I have a 50 amp box with SSRs and contactors, and a BCS-460. So he looks at it all including the BCS java page, and says "oh that's easy, a PLC could take the place of the BCS" ? Is that right? Can a PLC...

Nice! Another option, (and what I did): I went through the side with the SSRs. (right side in your case) That way, the natural convection pulls the hot air up, parallel to the fins. As we already established that provides better heat transfer. If you mount them on the top, air has to come in...

I was just looking at my panel, and pump2 was on "auto" and I said to my self: "oh yeah, I use 120v pump circuit on auto all the time for fermentation heaters" Duh! So, yes, if I was doing it again, I would still have 4 SSRs. By the way, I am using BCS, so I have lots of controllers...

I set it up with one SSR for each of two elements, and one SSR for each of the 2 pumps. Each of the 4 circuits is controlled by a 3 way switch On - Off - Auto. I never use auto on the pumps, so if I was going to do it again I would just have two SSRs, and manual pumps

I mounted mine (4) on the outside for two reasons: 1) passive cooling means fewer moving parts. 2) quieter.