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Nice writeup! I would suggest using a normal 10a DC relay to an DC to AC SSR with a heatsink if your driving anything over 10a.

I mash-out from 168-170f, I use room temp water for fly-sparge. I consistently hit 80%+

I think there's a severity level to "wrong/bad" if you're going to say "it's absolutely wrong/bad". There are some good things that come from the articles and they don't claim to be the end-all/be-all for information (at least from my observation). It's ok to present information and be wrong. We...

What about this process for NA? - mash beer as you normally would - sparge as you normally would - boil for 5 minutes, with enough hop material to help keep things anti-microbial - Ferment (almost non-hopped) wort - After fermentation, cold crash wort to filter out suspended proteins (and if...

(not sure if this was mentioned before, see I'm late to the party with no date) This makes sense because a 5.34 pH @ 77f (standard for pH measurement) would correlate to about 5.1 pH @ 156f. Basically, we've been doing the same thing but cooling our mash/boil/etc wort before testing because most...

Not at all! I store all my lager and ale yeasts at 38f degree fridge. I have no issues with reviving them. They usually kick off very well once at a temperature that they reproduce at. Once you're at an optimal temp, you should be ok. Now, in regards to your lag, you might just have old/sluggish...

Let me preface by saying that I don't think what Brulosophy is doing is wrong/bad. I do think there are flaws in testing that you can't really address without a lot of money behind the testing, which I don't think they have. I personally read (and have done so for many years) Brulosophy for...

Barolkleen might work for you, sounds around similar to what the ABW is but without the Metasilicate, instead using Lye, which is what BLL was mentioning.

Take a look at my homebrew instagram I have my sculpture up there, pretty compact setup -- https://www.instagram.com/undefinedbrewing/

Btw, Walmart in my area (New England, Western Mass) has Sunnyside TSP free (meta-silicate) for about $4/lb and it's in the paint section. 40oz box 7th Gen = $6.16 3.5 lb Oxy = $7.99 2lb TSP free = $8 So roughly $23 total (only using 20oz of the 7th gen) comes out to 6.75lb and $3/lb...

Here's another one that may be a contender -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07413ZDPZ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 212f rated, seems like similar plastic material as the others.

If your tripping because of your pump there's something wrong with your pump or your wiring. You should fix that issue before dropping $130 on a in-line GFCI :)

Worth a shot ;-) necro post ftw!!!!

Wow I didn't know you were so affected by this thread. Got some unresolved issues going on there buddy? It was simple question and i have a mill.

I know that this is an old thread, but, did you ever get this working? Sounds interesting!

Surprisingly I didn't find any threads on this. So stainless can be a pain to bend and is expensive but doesn't rust or verdigris, copper can bend easily but can also be expensive and does verdigris. And yet aluminum tubing is cheapest and provides the best heat transfer, easy to bend and no...

That make sense all! Thanks! I'm new to getting my water adjusted according to what I'm brewing. Based on reading up on all these awesome posts my water is actually ok for more malt centric or balanced beers out of the gate. However, IPA's, etc need a bit of acid and some help on my sulfate...

Gotcha! Thanks AJ

I got it worked out using more gypsum and still being within "safe" levels. Thanks!

I didn't mean override as in cancel out. Override as in add more than. I want to add more sulfate without adding more magnesium or chloride . I want to add more sulfate only... it's ok if it can't be done. No problem. Thanks!