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Hi Liam. Treat all water used as per first post in thread

OP theres a min contact time for starsan to be effective(think its 30seconds or so). Spray tree(probably not neccessary but I do it anyway). Rinse bottles on vinator, stack on tree, start bottling. dont worry about them drying out as you fill

I don't know about the remaining solids but you can expect a spontaneous fermentation to take off if you don't do something fairly quickly. Read first post in this thread http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=4308.0

Count me in too In

There is no need to sparge and no downside to full volume BIAB mashes in terms of beer quality. Check out biabrewer.info . PP on there has done plenty if side by side experiments on this. Also in my experience full volume mash doesn't affect beer 'body'

I used to do all my mashes overnight. I found that the beer always turned out thinner, lower FG so for some styles that was great but didn't suit others. These days I mash out and pull the bag before bed, then I start the boil the following morning. No negative impact doing it this way. Never...

I use enough so that its not a thick syrup and it mixes well in bottling bucket. Usually about 500ml

Mostly leaf. Only 25g pellets in each BK and FV, but 230g and 75g leaf so I'll probably allow for about 3.5L total losses Sent from my XT890 using Home Brew mobile app

Thx guys, I think I'll try 1litre per 100g of leaf hops to start

Its absorbtion rates I'm trying to estimate. . I know my losses to trub Sent from my XT890 using Home Brew mobile app

I'm doing the Pliny clone shortly and I'm wondering how much liquid loss to hops to allow for in both the BK and dry hopping in the FV. Has anybody got any numbers? Thanks L

Damn! I've had CRS and DLS sitting on a shelf for about 2 years and I gave it away a few weeks ago:)

Thanks AJ, so just to clarify, if I'm doing a stout should I try maybe 1% sauermalz also Sent from my XT890 using Home Brew mobile app

Guys, just reading these last few posts and I'm a little confused. I brew with RO BIAB and treat all my beers as per the first post with cacl gypsum and use sauermalz. I've been putting the cacl and gypsum in the trains before dough in because I must have read somewhere that this is the right...

I BIAB and for the same reasons did a good few overnight mashes. Found my beer coming out thinner so I not mash out and pull grain before bed

The 'only' downside to BIAB is the lifting that Yooper indicated. There are no clarity, or other issues with finished beer. I do BIAB with a buffalo boiler in my kitchen. When lifting the grain bag I stand on the countertop over the boiler. I don't bother but if you wanted to step mash it would...

I have an ion exchange water softener that resulted in terrible efficiency and mash ph way out of range among other problems. I now use RO water because its my only real alternative option and I treat it to get my mash ph in the correct zone. Its resulted in a huge imrpovement in my beer

Doesnt the OP say he mashes at 156~157 in post number 3? Certainly not a low mash temp? I would have expected this high mash temp along with the low IBUs to give a sweeter less dry finish? @Layerup, I notice you brewed this with 40IBUs ? How was that? Thats more what I'd expect from a dry stout

Is this a dry or a sweet stout? The IBUs are very low?

+1 Rinse, no soap, after use and cover with tinfoil if storing in shed . Otherwise leave uncovered