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I'd be interested in more detail about your system. Our club has aspirations of doing something more then homebrew. I did the numbers and if my info is correct, we'd need to brew two 10 gallon batches a day, 5 days a week, 50 weeks a year to meet the minimum production level required by...

I haven't experienced the burner/pipe proximity problem. My biggest challenge is allowing the reading on the controller to exceed my target by 5* or so before the controller indicates that the burner should be shut off. After a few minute of recirc, the temp seems to stabilize on my target...

Thanks for the tips. I recognize the need to do a manual check of the efficiency reading, just getting lazy I guess. I've avoided stirring the mash for a few reasons. The user's manual for the fixture discourages it and I've read a couple of horror stories on collapsed false bottoms. Also...

Not really. Best I've gotten so far is 70% but I usually run 65%. Calculations based on beerSmith. In other news, we've added a copper diffuser plate to the end of the return hose and suspend this over the mash. Allows for a thicker mash and tends to get recirculation and sparge over the...

Sounds like a leak to me. I just give my cylinder a good turn...don't bother to open it fully up. A 20# tank will last me a year or more carbonating and pushing a 5 keg kegerator.

I like the mechanical action of the brush over the chemical action of PBW. Plus it takes less time, less water and is cheaper than PBW. That said, I should probably run a line of batches that uses only kegs that have been PBW'd.

In the early days, I found that after a keg kicked, there was significant hard water build up on the interior of the keg. Call it calcium carbonate, call it beer stone, don't know except it required a lot of painful, in-keg scrubbing to remove it. Back in the day, I was also in the habit of...

90%, very good indeed. My last brew disappointed my already disappointing 60%, but I also ended up with other major problems unrelated to the BM. Suffice it to say that demonstrating brewing to others should only be done on an old, familiar system. Ah well, they see the bad along w/the good...

The water to grain ratio would be independent of the dead space under the false bottom, no? I'm gathering that the false bottom along w/the design of the BM requires a ratio of 1.4 or 1.5qt water/# grain (in order to establish a whirlpool and maximize conversion and sugar extraction). My next...

Thanks, I'll check your pics. Our hose is simply a slip fit. I added a typical worm drive hose clamp to prevent the air entrainment one gets if it's not clamped...it's not the easiest spot in which to operate a screw driver. I'm suspecting I missed a part specific for this task...I'll go...

Greetings brewers, I’ve been brewing since ’91. My home kit is a keggle/gott, pumped, counterflow chilled. Primary in plastic, secondary at low temp in corny kegs. Serve out of a converted chest freezer w/5 taps. Typical drafts are my SNPA clone and a session ESB. I mix it up w/an...

Thanks GMB, We built a sheet metal box that sits under the burner but it's open on the inlet side. It also sits on the ground so there's a gap between the fixture and the screen. I'm assuming that the windscreen/flue adapter solution is attached to the underside of the fixture. I'll have my...

Excellent, thanks for the replies all. The forum deserves an intro post from me...I'll do that shortly. WRT the BM system, I'm getting wretched efficiencies, 60% or less. I'm using my traditional 1.3qt/# of grain and w/the false bottom, barely get liquid coverage of the grain. I suspect...

Thanks

Hi, Are there any active brewmagic users out there? Our club has recently acquired a system and we're have some difficulty with various aspects of the fixture. I posted one question to the sabco forum that went unanswered. A second post never got past the moderator. Seems that forum is...

I'm testing out a sabco brew magic system but am used to a cache kooker 120kbtu. After a quick search, I read that some brewers have upgraded to higher output burners, no other changes required. I've also seen some references to changing out just the regulator with one rated for higher...