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I rehydrated 5 packets, i was trying to play it safe after my last reuse fail.

Greetings brewers! I've been a brewer for maybe 5 years now. I have been making regular large scale batches and have worked my way up to ~25 gallon batches. I have been making very similar recipes and using rehydrated dry yeast, particularily the S0-04 and Nottingham yeast. I was...

I have both styles in my brew system and both work fine.

You pretty much need to have a certain angle to effectively dump all your yeast. I have fermented in sankes a plenty, I just rack off the yeast cake with auto-syphon as usual... Why damage a good sankey unnecessarily?

Ryan has some good info there, but i'd like to extenuate that the temp at which your wort is at the time of pitching is very important. It may take a long time to hit but if you pitch too warm it's going to run away from you. I pitch at 65F, personally. Also, it may be important to note...

The beer is good at 65F for two weeks. If i give it a couple more weeks it's even better though. I just don't have that kind of real estate so i was hoping some more heat after the primary might speed along the aging process.

Good Info guys. +1 on making a starter on old yeast. I have used harvested yeast after weeks in the frige and I got some poor attenuation because of it. I always make a starter of it now.

I'm running a temperature controlled fermentation on a conical fermenter. I've been re-using So4 English Ale yeast and fermenting 64-66F with little temp fluctuations for two weeks before kegging. I would like to hold my beer a little longer but it would necessitate another fermentation...

Welcome to the All Grain Scene! For calculating how much water and strike temperature i use the following page: Mash and Sparge Water Calculator ::: Brew365 - Homebrewing Recipes and Articles -b

I've split up to 20 gallons between 5 carboys on many occasions without problems. I do drain a little in one then another and keep moving it around until they are all more or less even. Even that is probably unnecessary.

A few days or a week is ok, perhaps, but if it's in the fridge for too long, (2, 3 weeks?) make a new starter first. Had some batches finish low, i presume from not making a new starter, but you never know. In any case it's what i do now 'cause i can only brew maybe 2 all grain batches a month...

I finally got my stout tank in September, 6 months after purchasing it! So i basically forgot about it and brewed many batches in carboys this summer. I wasn't expecting such a long wait and i always was told just one more month kinda thing. Other than that it's a pretty nice piece of...

I meant 73% 2-row

Probably not needed, no, but i think pitching actively fermenting yeast is most ideal and it's how i roll. ;) I'm curious if placing it in the frige is necessary, beneficial or detrimental in any way. I can see where placing it in the refrigerator could be an advantage if you don't pitch...

I brew exceptional beers with dry yeast, that being said it's probably a better choice for someone just beginning to brew beers. It's more forgiving and cheaper.

Here is a good description of how to step up your starters: Stepping up a Yeast Starter

Do you have an accumulation of yeast cells on the bottom of your starters? In all your starters i would suggest keeping the gravity less than 1.05, yeast get stressed after fermenting high gravities. If your not sure about how much yeast you are pitching you could take a gander at the wyeast...

+1

+1 too high a mash temp and bring up your fermentation temp, maybe try to rouse the yeast or repitch. Your gravity is much too high so you should definitely try something. The 67% base grain means you have 33% specialty and they are not as fermentable either. I would have used more...

Whatever you do will probably work since you are only a few days off here. I personally might stick it in the frige untill Friday and decant the beer then, bring the yeast to room temp and make another starter with it. Just enough wort to get the yeast active again, assuming you have as many...