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Hi, I have a homemade temperature controlled fermentation chamber, which holds up to 4 fermentation buckets or carboys. It comes with the pictured Better Bottle carboy and airlock, $20 takes everything. Local pickup only in Baltimore city, near Patterson Park. It has a Mypin TA4 temperature...

Update: Both 5-gallon glass carboys, the O2 system, and the kegs are spoken for. The rest is still available. OBO?

Texted you back.

Unfortunately I haven't had time to brew for quite a while at my place--been getting my fix at a friend's house, where cleanup is much easier. So, basement's getting full and wife's getting angry. All prices are OBO, vastly prefer local pickup for the lower hassle factor. Now, on to the...

If you just rinse out your teacups after use, instead of cleaning them thoroughly, you never have this problem.:p

If you've got temperature control, essentially any heating element will work. The seed starter mats should be fine. Lots of people have had good luck just wrapping the fermenter in blankets and letting the yeast make their own heat.

Nope, they're already converted. Sorry!

Hot B-Brite, PBW, or oxyclean solution should work great. As far as the lead goes, leaching is a function of solvent, surface area, time, and temperature. Cold beer that spends a short time going through a small faucet isn't going to pick up much lead, even if the faucet was made out of pure...

I just ordered 4 kegs from cornykeg.com for a friend's kegerator build. Unfortunately, the mini-fridge that I'm using will fit the narrower Pepsi-style kegs, but not the Coke-style kegs (converted to ball lock) that my own kegerator is using. By the time I realized my error, Cornykeg had...

I had another taste of mine, but I still think I want to give it more time to get oaky. It is certainly getting *better*, but it still has a long way to go.

"TA" is a bit of a misnomer as it is more properly thought of as a measurement of buffering capacity (in other words, resistance to pH changes). pH is a measure of H+ ion concentration, or acidity.

Update: I tried the wine today. First I mixed a splash of each in a glass and tasted it. The nose is actually better than I was expecting, but the body was still pretty thin and the taste was excessively tart. Oak is not making much of an appearance yet, so I think I'll give it a few more...

Hey, I was doing that BEFORE I was a homebrewer.;)

Isn't that an oxymoron?:p

Yeah, I'm hoping that they will mellow out, but it's possible with this wine that the young, "rough" flavors would have compensated for the fundamental lack of body.:D I'll be tasting every few weeks to see how things are progressing.

Both wines are in secondary on oak cubes now. The tastes that I took on transferring weren't promising...I think I may have made a mistake by adding acid blend based on TA, rather than by taste. Both batches are entirely too tart at this point. Hopefully they'll mellow out over the next few...

The drill trick is the way to go. If you're a cheap bastard like me, you can cut up a plastic clothes hanger and stick it in your drill to make your own "wine whip" for free.

I think that the idea is to make sure that your yeast are nice and healthy and fermenting actively before adding additional sugar. You can get them up to a slightly higher ABV that way. However, unless you're using a strain that can't take the ABV you're shooting for, it's unnecessary, and as...

Get some label making paper from your LHBS ($6 a pack where I got them, enough for 144 bottles @ 6 labels/sheet), then design and print your own. It's really easy, cheap, and looks great. If you don't have a good color printer you can probably take the design and label paper to a copy shop...