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You're right and that's what I meant. I don't know what I was thinking. As far as the PID cycle goes, every one I've used cycles way faster than once per second on 220V. I have seen some scorching on 110V systems though I wasn't watching the cycle time.

All else equal, your power will be the same regardless of the voltage. Power is voltage times amps and your element is going to pull the same power regardless of the voltage. It will however, draw fewer amps at 220V. Also, all else isn't equal in this case. Heating elements are rated for...

BTW: A fair number of us are also hunters who may be interested in helping in other ways as well.

What part of Houston are you from? There are a number of clubs on the area that occasionally have brewing parties where a number of us will brew together. There's always a lot of grain to dispose of.

Since you already have 220V service, why are you using 110V for anything? If you don't want to get another PID you could just use a PWD to control the boil. Or use one of these: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=444

Shiny

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I haven't been on HBT in a while. Since your MLTs are are plastic, you'll need to install a bulkhead like this one: http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=252 Then you can screw in a 1/2 thermowell...

Install a thermal-well in your mash tun and you won't have to worry about it. Post details about your MLT and we/I can help you figure out how to install one.

Schemy is right, as a judge we don't really know what your ABV is and most judges like bigger beers. In a tie, the big beer usually wins unless it's just way out of range. Also, the more information you give us about ingredients, ABV, etc., just gives us more things to find wrong if we can't...

Mine's not pretty but it's cheap and it was easy to wire.

There is an additional duty charge of about $10 for importing it. Still not a bad price and it really cuts down on the dead-space that some false bottom setups create.

Has anybody else used this. It works great and for the price I see them as a good alternative to a false bottom. Kind of a premium braid or bazooka setup. https://store.brewpi.com/featured/brewpi-matmill-lauterhexe-kit

Bimetallics are typically not very accurate and difficult to keep calibrated. PIDs (such as the Mypin) with RTDs or Thermocouples have better accuracy and pretty much stay calibrated forever.

Once you have the 220V service available the initial investment difference is about zero. There's no reason to use a mixed system.

As I recall, the one use limitation has more to do with pressure cycles than cleanliness. It has more to do with accidentally blowing one up and the resulting injury/death. I think there was a related commercial mishap a few years ago. They should be fine as a fermenter. Just soak them in...

18 AWG might be a little light but it's close. I'd use the same gauge wire that the freezer uses.

Cool, I was hoping I could do it with out a rolling machine. I'll give a shot this weekend.

Slightly old thread but I have a question: For your tippy tunp, how did you form your hoop? Did you just hand bend it around a form or did someone send it through a rolling machine?

There are lots of them. Just Google counterfeit FOTEK SSRs.