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Hi, I've been looking at some of the Danby compact refrigerators to use as a kegerator. I came across this one: http://www.danby.com/en/US/our_products/refrigeration/dar044a1wdd It's a newer model. I've seen lot's of tutorials and pics for the older model (DAR440BL), and the sizes are...

I would say just be a little more careful about sanitization, and replace all of your vinyl tubing. I went the same thing a few months ago and the results suit me

Before you make a decision, take a gravity reading. I'll bet its just about finished

Appropriate amount of yeast is key. That said, I'd rather overpitch than underpitch

Why dump it now? If its disgusting after bottling or kegging, then dump it. I've made some serious mistakes, and I've never dumped any beer

6 months maybe?

What did your efficiency come out to? My first couple of AG brews had very low efficiency. The more AGs you do, the better you'll get at predicting the post boil gravity and you can plan accordingly. The starter doesn't have to krausening for it to be ready. I look at the color to see. If...

The reason for secondary in carboy is definitely head space. Whether or not to use them for primary is really preference. I like many others here prefer better bottle carboys, just because I like to see whats going on.

I think overcarbonation can make a beer seem a little thin. I would just be careful to sanitize well on your next batch, and carbonate a bit less. If it happens again, then go ahead and replace your tubing.

John Palmer gave some pointers on aluminum pots in the 2nd brew strong episode ("Metals that affect your beer"). Its fine, I wouldn't worry about it. I've got a 9G kettle for 5G batches. I find that for 90 minute boils I need about 7.3 Gallons preboil.

I've heard of this method from several people, including the guys at my LHBS. From what I understand, Spring water is mineral heavy, and I ALWAYS use spring water.

I always check the mrmalty pitching rate calculator: http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html According to that, you definitely won't need a starter

80 is pretty dramatic. 75 is okay for some yeasts. What type of yeast are you using?

I would always give a bottled stout at least 6 weeks before reacting. However, you may be right.. it might be overcarbonated. How much priming sugar did you add to how much beer?

I always primary for at least a month. People leave it in for months sometimes, no problem

You could prob add more sugar, allow it to ferment out and then prime. I usually don't mess with recipes after fermenation has begun. Probably best to adjust the recipe for next time

We like to overestimate what the fermentation that happens in the bottle. Its not enough to make a difference.. If it goes beyond that, then you might have some problems, overcarbonation and bombs

In "Designing Great Beers", Ray Daniels kind of talks about IPA as the same as a Pale Ale, the only difference being the strength.

Dont know about 2&3, but I don't think it matters whether you use a keg or bottle. Do what you like. The only caveat is that when bottling, high gravity beers take a long time to carb up (if you are priming)

I agree with idigg. If you want to do all grain, you might want to just decide on your equipment instead of gradually stepping it up. Its very important to have a process that is very consistent. It take a few times before you get all of your parameters just right for _your_ equipment. All...