Search results

Yep. Beersmith>Preferences>Advanced Options. Mine is set at 0.96 fl.oz. / oz of grain.

Same here. Adjust your lauter tun deadspace, your loss to trub and your boiloff rates by doing a "wet run" with only water, and then measuring the true values for each. I'm still tweaking mine. Remember, heavy hop profiles increase trub loss.

As long as you're sanitary, and keep it well covered, your wort-in-waiting will be OK. Lots of brewers pitch yeast hours later, while they wait for the right temperature. I've pitched 12-14 hours later with no ill effects. Who says you can't mash some more wort in the meanwhile?

Yep! Thanks for the link!!

Danam404, Where'd you snatch the sweet Heat resistant gloves you use on the vid?? Link me up to Amazon!! Thanx!

Wherever the Blich QDs have a red O-rings, and the Temp sensor screws into the TOP, won't need thread tape. The water pump inlet and outlet may need them if its NPT thread.

I always mash 90 min for dry saisons, and tannins are a problem at high temps and over-sparges. Brewed a 13 gal Imperial Smoked Stout yesterday. Target OG was 1.085 and measured was 1.083. Got 65% efficiency, but the grist was huge (48lbs), and only mashed for 60 min at 152F. Mash out at 168F...

Almost certainly. I did a 90 min mash at 146F, and the mash efficiency was about 82% if I remember correctly. Stirred the upper 3rd of the mash every 15 mins.

Here's the one I got. When I got mine, it had Prime shipping: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NFP3WG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 But, I sawed the legs to 18", to lower the BE to a manageable height.

I have an immersion chiller (50'x1/2") and 2 plate chillers. Ground water temp is about 80F here in Puerto Rico. So I usually chill wort, and wait about 4-6 hours until it reaches pitching temp. I'm dying for a Therminator, but it might be just about the same than my Duda Diesel plate chiller.

This solved all my trub/hop/chiller woes: http://www.brewershardware.com/FILTER1.html

For efficiency's sake, I raked the top third of the mash every 15 minutes. Got 80% mash efficiency that way in a 90 min dry saison mash.

No AutoSparge? With the AS, you fully open valves, and the AS regulates the flow, mostly. Without it, you need to dial in the flow coming out of the kettle into the pump, or better yet, coming OUT of the pump to match the drain orifice. I started with 1.5 GPM, but it was too fast for such...

1. You could heat ALL the water in the bottom kettle and then pump to the MT on top, OR you could divide the water in half to each vessel, start cycling between both vessels while you heat until you achieve strike temp. Your choice. I just heated the bottom, and then circulated half onto the MT...

1. Grain absorption, cooling shrinkage remain the same. 2. Hourly boiloff may remain the same, subject to elevation and ambient temp. 3. MT loss is minimal, if you dump straight from mash out. I'd say about 2 cups in 10gal BE. 4. Kettle and trub loss depend on the mash, finings and hops...

Link me up for the streaming. I'd love to see a pils brew up north. Chilling to pitching must be a breeze.

One batch down, cryastal clear wort. 4 degree F difference between ToP and middle of mash, so had to compensate. Everything else ran smoothly. Cinder block stand upgraded to 24x24" stainless table. :ban:

Profiles>Equipment>Add-ons

Beersmith's BE MT deadspace is set at .35gal, whereas my measurement was closer to .19gal. Not too much off, unless you wanna be nitpicky about it.

Nevermind. I found it! I'll check the losses and see if they correlate. :rockin: