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As long as the threads match I don't see a problem, but I've never used an all in one system so my experience is limited.

If you don't mind collecting your water before brew day, you might consider a portable RO filter system like this one...

I have found that the only use for old LME is making starters, but at 3 years since purchase yours may be too old even for that. I was using old LME for starters for a while, but I found that as it aged it became less fermentable and thus didn't give the yeast growth I wanted.

When I combine the cost savings of buying grain in bulk and using a little less grain due to better control of my crush, and thus my efficiency, I calculated that my mill paid for itself after 22 batches of beer. If you are brewing biweekly then a cereal killer type mill can pay for itself in...

I don't always get a krausen with stirred starters, you could take a hydrometer reading to see if there was fermentation.

Ok then, to get higher ABV you will have to boil that sap down quite a bit before fermenting it. If you don't already have a hydrometer you should get one and learn how to use it. If you are new to fermenting then I would suggest starting with a lower gravity, something like 1.050. I don't know...

Just to be clear, are you fermenting straight sap or sap that has been boiled down as you would with maple sap? Alcohol content is of course related to sugar concentration, so a higher ABV would require a higher sugar concentration in the liquid you are fermenting.

I brewed a German pils and also called it Pandemic Pils

My favourite style of beer is homebrewed.

Just listened to this and I really enjoyed it. My eldest son turns 18 (legal drinkingage here) a year from now and I had been toying with the idea of brewing him a mead for his birthday, now I know that I want to do this.

When I open a sack I transfer the grain to buckets for storage, to make it eadier to pour I only cut one corner (with sharp scissors) which minimizes the amount of plastic that can fall into the grain.

Not bees, but late summer brews attract a swarm of wasps.

A good thermometer is worth its weight in gold. The thermapen is top notch, but pricey. I use the Javelin thermometer, I consistently get stable readings in 4 seconds, at about a third of the price of the thermapen. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GRFHXVQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

And if you store the outer tube upside down, then the valve in the bottom will stay open and help to keep moisture from getting trapped inside.

If the gel is petroleum based it may be slowly eating through the plastic on the probe cord, it wouldn't take a very big hole for some gel to get in and foul your probe.

Canada

You will want your reservoir to be a good deal larger than your batch size. If it is too small then it will heat too quickly and you will lose your ability to chill. What I used to do to figure the amount of cooling water needed was to quickly average my volume/temp. What I mean is that if I...

I think perhaps the main question here is why do you have to top off in the first place, and how much are you topping off? A bit of information about your process might help ( Batch sparge, fly sparge, BIAB...?), but basically you should be able to hit your target volume +/- a quart or two...

I have used a pump like this one https://www.homedepot.com/p/Superior-Pump-1-3-HP-Submersible-Thermoplastic-Utility-Pump-91330/204609991, this one comes with a garden hose adapter. The pump would go into a large container of ice water and the output of the IC would flow back into the same...

Some of the best money I have spent on brewing was my Brewer's Friend membership