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Would I call that quality welding? No. Will it be OK for a boil kettle? Sure. Obviously the person who welded the ferrules did not shield the back side of the weld. That is why you see that dirty gray appearance on the inside of the ferrules. The stainless is actually oxidized in that area...

I am benefiting from my knowledge and experience I have in working with stainless steel. I never use any consumables that have been in contact with other metals other than stainless steel. When companies manufacture products made of stainless steel it is hard to insure with 100% certainty...

Passivating stainless is overrated. I could show you my keggles that are unpassivated, welded on, scrubbed with stainless scrubbies, ground with abrasives with no sign of corrosion after more than 2 years of brewing in them. Don't believe the hype. Passivation is for the removal of free iron on...

:rockin: I use mine for grilling and smoking as well as brewing. Pricey, but you won't regret it.

You don't have to remove all the mill scale. I would however remove the mill scale at the areas where the welds will be. You will get a cleaner stronger weld if you do. That mill scale will actually prolong the formation of rust. Removing the mill scale from the entire surface is a waste of...

100% Argon is used when tig welding stainless, and 308L rod is used to weld 304.

You will still deal with rusting issues unless you remove all of the previous weld. When welding, the base metals and filler mix together while molten so you may have an issue because the base metal(keggle) is so thin. Quite often you have to grind below the surface to remove all traces of a...

They are most definitely stainless. I've been welding and fabricating for 22 years and I'm absolutely certain the kegs are stainless.

This is sugaring. Sugaring occurs on the back side if a weld when there is no shielding. I don't think that is what jmajor817 described.

Your welder may have used a contaminated wire brush on the welds. When working with stainless steel you must use consumables(grinding wheels, wire brushes, etc.) that have never touched anything but stainless steel. Can you post a picture? I could give you an educated guess as to why the welds...

Today's kegs are mostly 304. 304 is costs less than 316. 304 is less corrosion resistant than 316. 316 is used in extremely corrosive environments.

You are better off tig welding the fittings to the gas beam, and also the gas beam to the stand. The welds will be less likely to leak if you tig.

Yes, you can use stainless, and if you do the filler metal to use is 309. You can actually weld stainless to mild steel with just about any filler for mild steel, but 309 filler is the best match. Try staying with the same material as the gas beam though.

Are you saying using a plasma torch is ghetto?

I think you should do what you are comfortable with. The method that you use to weld the fitting in is not critical. The goal is just to make a clean sound weld. If these were fermenters I would use TC fittings and use this technique...

Plain old masking tape is what is commonly used. We kept rolls of it along with our tools and consumables with us. Don't be shy and tape well off the can onto the keg. Just put down overlapping layers until you get well away from the heat from welding The heat from welding can soften the...

No, what I am saying is roll a ball of steel wool and stick in the open end of the fitting your welding to your keg on the outside of the keg instead of leaving the outlet of the fitting wide open for drafts of air to blow in and contaminate the Argon shielding. The Argon should fill the can...

Your statement is about full penetration is correct. "Lack of penetration" is what you get when you fail to fully fuse the edges of the pipe on the inside of the joint. By "penetration" I mean root weld reinforcement. Root weld reinforcement is the proper term for penetration on the inside...

You are better off letting the Oxygen purge the can thru the opening on the fitting you are welding in. Make a small ball of steel wool and stuff it in the open end of the fitting you are welding in. Hope that makes sense. I'm not not trying to sound like I'm a know it all, but I have been...

No need to pulse. I've stated this before but I'll say it again. The general rule is one amp for every thousandths of thickness. Your keg is about .050" thick so 50 amps would be the starting point. On thin walled material your better off starting at a lower amperage than higher. You can always...